would like to check with you guys regarding the sound insulation..is it very bad? thanks
Once you register and �activate the SD card, it will show 3 years.
Bro, there is actually two dates shown after you register and both starts from the date that u start to use the navigation system in your M3 (not the date u register).
Frist is the Map subscription date (3 yrs), second is the Connected Service subscription date (60 days). Is yours the same?
vfb, you got lobang to get the filter?
�
�
�
p/n of cabin filter .... whahahahaha
�
Was thinking of changing the signal lights to LED so that I can remove the "egg yolk" in the lamp, but realised that it requires a additional load resistor for LED so that the blinking will not be affected. Then I came across the Philips SilverVision chrome coated bulbs on sales at Stamford Jurong $15.90. These bulbs were quite popular in 2006-2010 before LED becomes affordable. Can see the original bulb beside the chrome bulb below.�
�
�
Bought 2 packs to try on. Below is the pictures before changing, can see that the lamps are orange tinted in the front and back:
�
�
This is after changing, no more "egg yolk" in the lamp:�
�
�
Think Stamford Tyres is clearing old stock on these bulbs, they were keeping these bulbs in their store behind and I have to ask the staff to help me get it out... ha ha�
Edited by Brainstorm, 30 December 2014 - 01:15 PM.
Also bought the sports pedal and scuff plates (inner + outer) from Taobao.
�
The sports pedal is slip on type, no need to drill holes and it fits quite nicely. The scuff plates was a headache thought as they don't fit our M3 very well, need a lot of bending and forming before it can fit onto the M3. If you are buying from Taobao, has to be careful.
�
� ��
�
I also bought the 3M carmat locally and got the uncle to help me punch holes to fit the mat holders. Now the 3M mats can rest flat and nice.�
�
would like to check with you guys regarding the sound insulation..is it very bad? thanks
�
This review gives his opinion on road noise of M3.�
�
Also bought the sports pedal and scuff plates (inner + outer) from Taobao.
�
The sports pedal is slip on type, no need to drill holes and it fits quite nicely. The scuff plates was a headache thought as they don't fit our M3 very well, need a lot of bending and forming before it can fit onto the M3. If you are buying from Taobao, has to be careful.
�� ��
�
I also bought the 3M carmat locally and got the uncle to help me punch holes to fit the mat holders. Now the 3M mats can rest flat and nice.�
�
Bro i bought the scuff plates from Taobao too but haven't found the time to fit it. I thought the OEM ones were nicer and was hoping that Taobao would carry them as well at a significantly cheaper price.. SE gave me 3M-like Mazda coil mats which I thought were very good..
would like to check with you guys regarding the sound insulation..is it very bad? thanks
�
Yup. One of the key negatives for this otherwise great car. But, its a small problem & if you are bothered by it like me, I added insulation to it.
�
Bro Spring tahnk you for your compliments. You make my day.�
Wish you have a happy happy day ahead too :)
�
Mid bass / woofer. The magnet is about 50 cents size.
�
�
Tweeter
�
�
p/n of cabin filter .... whahahahaha
Too bad Sg does't come with the Bose system (9 Speakers)
Thinking of getting the hatchback tray. With shipping cost will be around S$130... Do you guys think its worth it?
�
vfb, you got lobang to get the filter?
�
�
cant find when i google it.
It is NOT carbon-filtered.
I thought you are my shifu?�
Once you register and �activate the SD card, it will show 3 years.
Sorry where to register?
Thinking of getting the hatchback tray. With shipping cost will be around S$130... Do you guys think its worth it?
�
�
Bro, anything is worth it if you can afford it and you need it.
Sorry where to register?
�
Using the program lor bro ...�
�
http://infotainment....?language=en-CA
Bro, there is actually two dates shown after you register and both starts from the date that u start to use the navigation system in your M3 (not the date u register).
Frist is the Map subscription date (3 yrs), second is the Connected Service subscription date (60 days). Is yours the same?
�
Yes, correct.�
Connected Service is for the Traffice Info .. weather ,,, I think ...�
totally useless in my case.
how come brainstorm brother pix for the front is deep crystal blue and the rest is blue mica?
�
i bought the inner scuff plates from taobao too. but i thought it looks nicer on the outside. hahaha.
�
stuffs i bought from taobao:
- scuff plate
- key holder
- mzd screen protector
- sports pedal
wants to get:
- visor but taobao visor is stick on while the original from mazda is clipon
- bootlid but they do not have my deep crystal blue. haha.
i think the sound insulation if u are not a heavy footer on the road is okay. but i do not like the sound it produced when driving in the carpark, when i low rev it while in the carpark. it sounds abit odd? do u all think so?
Thinking of getting the hatchback tray. With shipping cost will be around S$130... Do you guys think its worth it?
�
�
if you think thats useful its worth of cos.
The front photo was taken against the sunlight, so blue mica appears darker.how come brainstorm brother pix for the front is deep crystal blue and the rest is blue mica?
�
i bought the inner scuff plates from taobao too.
My inner scuff plates are ok except the left front passenger side as the i-Eloop has a DC-DC converter under the seat and cables run thru there making it thicker. My scuff plate have problem fitting there, have to rework quite a bit to fit in. Ha ha
Edited by Brainstorm, 30 December 2014 - 05:25 PM.
1. Bootlip
2. Scuff plates
3. Mzd screen protector
4. Plastic protector caps for the 4 door latches
5. Keyholder
6. Boot mat
prices are definitely affordable but shipping could cost as much as the items themselves..
Bro i bought the scuff plates from Taobao too but haven't found the time to fit it. I thought the OEM ones were nicer and was hoping that Taobao would carry them as well at a significantly cheaper price.. SE gave me 3M-like Mazda coil mats which I thought were very good..
�
I was also looking for the OEM ones, but it cost S$130+ alone without shipping, and Taobao dont have those yet... not sure if its worth to spend hundred plus for stepping... ha ha.�
I got the following from taobao:
1. Bootlip
2. Scuff plates
3. Mzd screen protector
4. Plastic protector caps for the 4 door latches
5. Keyholder
6. Boot mat
prices are definitely affordable but shipping could cost as much as the items themselves..
�
I used SGshop sea shipping option and cost around S$20 to ship back the pedals, inner scuff and outer scuff plate. How much is yours?�
�
I was also looking for the OEM ones, but it cost S$130+ alone without shipping, and Taobao dont have those yet... not sure if its worth to spend hundred plus for stepping... ha ha.�
�
I used SGshop sea shipping option and cost around S$20 to ship back the pedals, inner scuff and outer scuff plate. How much is yours?�
Haha yeah man that's why i have been holding back installation of the $7 taobao ones i bought in case the price for the OEM design drops or suddenly appears on taobao.. haha
I travel 400km date of collection of car and been consistently hitting 20km /l
Both on the meter and manual calculation... is this normal ?
So far did anyone hit 20km / l ?
I travel 400km date of collection of car and been consistently hitting 20km /l
Both on the meter and manual calculation... is this normal ?
�
I can hit about 19+km/L (5.1-5.2 L/100km) when I travel 80% expressway 20% city. I think 20km/L (5.0 L/100km) is possible if you hit 85%-90% expressway 15-10% city, without jams. Along the expressway, M3 can easily achieve 4.x L/100km for light footed drivers. ��
�
But once you stuck in jams or do more city driving, the superb mileage will drop quite a bit. Ha ha
Edited by Brainstorm, 30 December 2014 - 07:23 PM.
My vios previously dun have such huge difference from expressway to small road!!
�
I can hit about 19+km/L (5.1-5.2 L/100km) when I travel 80% expressway 20% city. I think 20km/L (5.0 L/100km) is possible if you hit 85%-90% expressway 15-10% city, without jams. Along the expressway, M3 can easily achieve 4.x L/100km for light footed drivers. ��
�
But once you stuck in jams or do more city driving, the superb mileage will drop quite a bit. Ha ha
I paid a total of approximately $70 for shipping cos they calculated based on volumetric weight and the boot mat although so light eventually "weighed" 4.5kg. The bootlip needed a wooden crate that "weighed" almost that too.�
I was also looking for the OEM ones, but it cost S$130+ alone without shipping, and Taobao dont have those yet... not sure if its worth to spend hundred plus for stepping... ha ha.�
�
I used SGshop sea shipping option and cost around S$20 to ship back the pedals, inner scuff and outer scuff plate. How much is yours?�
Mine is around 800km mileage now and i am getting 15.5km/l with 50% highway 50% city driving.So far did anyone hit 20km / l ?
I travel 400km date of collection of car and been consistently hitting 20km /l
Both on the meter and manual calculation... is this normal ?
Edit: Based on manual calculation
Edited by ekjm, 30 December 2014 - 08:04 PM.
Your i-stop is on or off with this reading 15.5?I paid a total of approximately $70 for shipping cos they calculated based on volumetric weight and the boot mat although so light eventually "weighed" 4.5kg. The bootlip needed a wooden crate that "weighed" almost that too.
Mine is around 800km mileage now and i am getting 15.5km/l with 50% highway 50% city driving.
Edit: Based on manual calculation
I realised that we need to give our M3 Infotainment system 15-30 seconds to completely boot up before we start to use the functions within. If not the system may become unstable. My kid plays with it the moment I start engine and the GPS voice disappear (It came back the next day when i drive again). Yesterday I power on to test the headlights and power off very quickly... then later when I drive it, the navigation screen continues to show "Navigation Loading", I think I've corrupted the files when I power off too quickly and disrupted the loading process.. I've to use Mazda toolbox last night to download navigation updates to "revive" the Navigation SD card content last night. Now things are back to normal. Just to share with all M3 owners, do give the Infotainment system time to boot up... just like our computers/laptops.
�� �
Thanks for sharing!�
�
We learn from each other lah�
��...
I found this earlier, just wanted to compare. I think the the filter is changed every 10,000km.�
�
�
Yup, thats the one.
No cover needed .. just pull it out and replace.
and btw, Shell Ultra Helix is now SN graded ...�
�
I read that Mazda's i-Stop is different from others and Mazda dont use starter motor to restart engine:
�
i-Stop
This is what Mazda calls its engine stop/start system, which kills the engine at stops and already is available on the Mazda 3 in Europe. Rather than using the electric starter to re-fire the engine, as in other manufacturers� versions of the technology, Mazda instead stops one of the cylinders at an advantageous point near the top of its stroke and fires that cylinder to get the engine restarted once the driver steps off the brake.�
�
�
I think BMW, Merz and others uses starter-motor to restart and it takes double the time at 0.7sec as compared to Mazda's 0.35sec. Their start-stop not only increase wear on the starter motor, it also shorten the battery life due to frequent start-stop.
��
�
Mazda seems to have overcome these issue with their i-Stop.�
�
�
I read the same. Not sure if I understood it right, but its the Super Capacitor that does the work. It activates the injector spraying fuel into the chamber. As the chamber is still hot, fuel combustion happens thus moving the pistons.
�
Pretty ingenious system.
�
My concern is the premature wear in the engine mounting.�
Edited by ST69, 31 December 2014 - 11:48 AM.
Thanks for sharing!�
�
Yup, thats the one.
No cover needed .. just pull it out and replace.
and btw, Shell Ultra Helix is now SN graded ...�
�
btw, regards to EO, spoke to them & confirm they are actually Idemitsu 0W20.
�
I asked abt why car manual also state usage of other viscosity eg 0/30 used by Malaysia, he mentioned its ok too. But, Mz w/s standardised on 0/20.�
Edited by ST69, 31 December 2014 - 11:50 AM.
so for newer cars serviing will be using grade 20 EO right? by when you will up to grade 30 EO? and then 40?
�
btw, regards to EO, spoke to them & confirm they are actually Idemitsu 0W20.
�
I asked abt why car manual also state usage of other viscosity eg 0/30 used by Malaysia, he mentioned its ok too. But, Mz w/s standardised on 0/20.�
�
Bro, that will be hard to find.
Now market everywhere I see easily can find 0W30 nia ...�
�
Bro, that will be hard to find.
Now market everywhere I see easily can find 0W30 nia ...�
check this out... http://www.idemitsu-...CateID=5&Page=0
�
maybe can group buy.
so for newer cars serviing will be using grade 20 EO right? by when you will up to grade 30 EO? and then 40?
�
If you goto Mz w/s, it will be 20. Since our cars are still under warranty, we'll hv to go back there for 3 yrs or 5 yrs depending on your pkg.
�
Anyhow, they standardised on 1 type besides biz reasons, also from tech perspective, its to help on fuel economy as the fuel is thinner, but personally it'll want to try thicker ones maybe after 3 yrs.�
Edited by ST69, 31 December 2014 - 02:35 PM.
check this out... http://www.idemitsu-...CateID=5&Page=0
�
maybe can group buy.
�
If you goto Mz w/s, it will be 20. Since our cars are still under warranty, we'll hv to go back there for 3 yrs or 5 yrs depending on your pkg.
�
i did not take up their servicing. so servicing gotta be done by myself outside after my 10,000km. warranty is still given for me till 3 years.
�
I read the same. Not sure if I understood it right, but its the Super Capacitor that does the work. It activates the injector spraying fuel into the chamber. As the chamber is still hot, fuel combustion happens thus moving the pistons.
�
Pretty ingenious system.
�
My concern is the premature wear in the engine mounting.�
Yeah i guess somehow somewhere something will gonna wear out due to frequent start/stop we don't know until years later when this new model is more established and more people have used it over time.. just hope that reliability of the parts in our ride is good though..
check this out... http://www.idemitsu-...CateID=5&Page=0
�
maybe can group buy.
�
If you goto Mz w/s, it will be 20. Since our cars are still under warranty, we'll hv to go back there for 3 yrs or 5 yrs depending on your pkg.
�
Anyhow, they standardised on 1 type besides biz reasons, also from tech perspective, its to help on fuel economy as the fuel is thinner, but personally it'll want to try thicker ones maybe after 3 yrs.�
Not sure if Mz workshop allows us to bring in our own oil if we bulk purchase the same type they use? Hope so man... i got their 3 years free servicing package until 60k km so after that got to think what to do...
Yeah i guess somehow somewhere something will gonna wear out due to frequent start/stop we don't know until years later when this new model is more established and more people have used it over time.. just hope that reliability of the parts in our ride is good though..
Not sure if Mz workshop allows us to bring in our own oil if we bulk purchase the same type they use? Hope so man... i got their 3 years free servicing package until 60k km so after that got to think what to do...
�
Some ADs charge for bringing own oil. Around $20 if not mistaken.
If you get the oil much cheaper outside, it's still worth it.
Eg Shell Helix 5W40 is normally charged $100 at AD but can get outside for $50+
It seems the technology seems different with iloop istop or skyactive.
Unless the servicing means add engine oil only..
�
i did not take up their servicing. so servicing gotta be done by myself outside after my 10,000km. warranty is still given for me till 3 years.
Will it be ok to service this new mazda 3 outside ?
It seems the technology seems different with iloop istop or skyactive.
Unless the servicing means add engine oil only..
�
�
from what i understand they are only changing the EO and plugs. not sure about coolant change or�ATF.�normal servicing, unless, *touch wood* certain parts break down.
Will it be ok to service this new mazda 3 outside ?
It seems the technology seems different with iloop istop or skyactive.
Unless the servicing means add engine oil only..
�
�
Think it's not a matter of whether can service outside or not but more of whether this will void the warranty. Touch wood, if something goes wrong with your car after 10k and as you do not have a record of servicing at AD, they may use this excuse that you did not service your car at the recommended intervals and thus caused the problem.
Inversely, you could prove that you did service your car outside but they can then say your mechanic caused the problem.
�
In short, think it's best to service at AD at least during the warranty period for peace of mind and to avoid any "taichi" by them. Happy New Year!!!
And from lights indicator to full tank can pump how many litres ? I wan to make use of the esso vouchers... need to pump either 24.5l or 49l.... thinking full tank can reach 49l or not...
TIA...happy zooming..
Anyone try if there is any indicator if the car is low on petrol ?
And from lights indicator to full tank can pump how many litres ? I wan to make use of the esso vouchers... need to pump either 24.5l or 49l.... thinking full tank can reach 49l or not...
�
Fuel tank is 45L.
Go for 24,5L interval.
Hi, anybody knows where to see the coolant temperature on the meter cluster. Understand the blue thermometer icon will appear when first start the car in the morning indicating coolant is cool, will disappear after warmup. How to monitor temp throughout the ride? Exspcially if stuck in traffic jam.
TIA...happy zooming..
�
Dont worry so much about engine temp.
Just off your engine when it shows RED.
Even wif a temp gauge u cant do nothing.
�
i did not take up their servicing. so servicing gotta be done by myself outside after my 10,000km. warranty is still given for me till 3 years.
�
I would still goto Mz when car is under warranty, to prevent any issues.
�
Bro, that will be hard to find.
Now market everywhere I see easily can find 0W30 nia ...�
To share : car owner manual did mention ok to use 0w20(ultra) or 0w30(super) . But came across this write up for US continent:
http://www.smartsynt...les/5w20oil.htm
mine still have the dok dok sound after changing the bushings two weeks back. Could you share with us what is the other item? I suspect it is the shock absorber itself..not so irritating when going past hump..but can hear the� faint rattling dok dok sound on rough roads at slow speed or going up slope suddenly..
I had the same problem after a week. Have you solve yours? I'm going to Ubi next week hoping to get some advice...
- so if apply footbrake lightly to hold still in 'D', the istop wont activate?
- will using handbrake serve the above purpose?
- Mz's iStop sounds more assuring than the starter motor type... :)
- so if apply footbrake lightly to hold still in 'D', the istop wont activate?
- will using handbrake serve the above purpose?
- Mz's iStop sounds more assuring than the starter motor type... :)
Yep stepping lightly on footbrake won't activate the iStop. That's what i do when i don't want to activate iStop if i did not switch it off. But if u pull handbrake, your foot will be off the brake so iStop won't be activated too. I observed that in N or P iStop won't activate too...
I had the same problem after a week. Have you solve yours? I'm going to Ubi next week hoping to get some advice...
Any bros had this dok dok sound issue resolved at Leng Kee? Is Ubi more "well equipped" than Leng Kee?
- so if apply footbrake lightly to hold still in 'D', the istop wont activate?
- will using handbrake serve the above purpose?
- Mz's iStop sounds more assuring than the starter motor type... :)
I will step harder on the brake pedal to activate the istop first, then shift gear to N. The car will remain stop and now u can apply handbrake follow by release your foot from the brake pedal to relax. To start engine, you can either shift gear to D (engine will start), or you can step on the brake pedal again (engine will also start). Enjoy.
I had the same problem after a week. Have you solve yours? I'm going to Ubi next week hoping to get some advice...
Hi bro,
�
The Dok Dok sound is still there, more like faint jiggling noise when turning at low speed or travelling at slow speed at grated roads. Most prominent when there is a sudden up slope.
I should be going back there in about 2 weeks time when my mileage reaches 5000km.
I will give leng kee one more chance if not I will go back to UBI.
Don't think it is that serious. It might be due to the lack of lubrication of the top mount bearing.
It was rather similar to my previous ride�on�coilovers�which was using a pillow mount ( and metal top hat), which sounded more awfully when�they got shot. �I am rather surprised Mz3 comes with rubber top hats with metal bearing as well.
Please see the link here for more info.
http://mazda3revolut...future-tsb.html
Thanks for the tips :)
U installed yourself or the guys at Stamford tyre will install for us? Keen to get a pair too.
�
�
Was thinking of changing the signal lights to LED so that I can remove the "egg yolk" in the lamp, but realised that it requires a additional load resistor for LED so that the blinking will not be affected. Then I came across the Philips SilverVision chrome coated bulbs on sales at Stamford Jurong $15.90. These bulbs were quite popular in 2006-2010 before LED becomes affordable. Can see the original bulb beside the chrome bulb below.�
�
�
Bought 2 packs to try on. Below is the pictures before changing, can see that the lamps are orange tinted in the front and back:
�
�
This is after changing, no more "egg yolk" in the lamp:�
�
�
Think Stamford Tyres is clearing old stock on these bulbs, they were keeping these bulbs in their store behind and I have to ask the staff to help me get it out... ha ha�
�
Got scuff plate (outer) and Sport petal set from Mazda USA, Damage : $357 (incl shipping)� �...
�
Went to Taobao and�got the below items�for the total damage of : $463
�
- scuff plate (inner)
- Cup holder (front and rear)�decoration
- Mzd Screen protector
- Boot Lip.
- Boot access protector (Inner and outer)
- sport Skirting
- Front and rear interior LED
- interior accessories (9 items)
- Exterior items (7 items)
Currently installing up to item 3 only. Will continue this holiday and weekend.
�
�
how come brainstorm brother pix for the front is deep crystal blue and the rest is blue mica?
�
i bought the inner scuff plates from taobao too. but i thought it looks nicer on the outside. hahaha.
�
stuffs i bought from taobao:
- scuff plate
- key holder
- mzd screen protector
- sports pedal
wants to get:
- visor but taobao visor is stick on while the original from mazda is clipon
- bootlid but they do not have my deep crystal blue. haha.
i think the sound insulation if u are not a heavy footer on the road is okay. but i do not like the sound it produced when driving in the carpark, when i low rev it while in the carpark. it sounds abit odd? do u all think so?
�
if you think thats useful its worth of cos.
�
- so if apply footbrake lightly to hold still in 'D', the istop wont activate?
- will using handbrake serve the above purpose?
- Mz's iStop sounds more assuring than the starter motor type... :)
Item #1- yes you can.
Item #2- set to N / hand brake it will activate. If really don't like it to be on in a slow and bad traffic jam can always off the function.
U installed yourself or the guys at Stamford tyre will install for us? Keen to get a pair too.
�
�
�
Think Stamford can help you fix for a small fee like Autobacs.
I install on my own. The rear light is very easy to fit, but the front is quite challenging. Follow the manual to unscrew the front mudguard and have to assess from belowthe foglight, have to feel the bulb with your hand... ha ha
Hi bro,
�
The Dok Dok sound is still there, more like faint jiggling noise when turning at low speed or travelling at slow speed at grated roads. Most prominent when there is a sudden up slope.
I should be going back there in about 2 weeks time when my mileage reaches 5000km.
I will give leng kee one more chance if not I will go back to UBI.
Don't think it is that serious. It might be due to the lack of lubrication of the top mount bearing.
It was rather similar to my previous ride�on�coilovers�which was using a pillow mount ( and metal top hat), which sounded more awfully when�they got shot. �I am rather surprised Mz3 comes with rubber top hats with metal bearing as well.
Please see the link here for more info.
http://mazda3revolut...future-tsb.html
Very useful piece of infor.. Thanks..
Hi all, the "dok dok" sound is still there after they replace my shock mounting. do you all hear the "clack clack" sound when the transmission down shift (around 16km/h) and it can be heard sometimes when the transmission engage around 2 and 3 gear.
Hi all, the "dok dok" sound is still there after they replace my shock mounting. do you all hear the "clack clack" sound when the transmission down shift (around 16km/h) and it can be heard sometimes when the transmission engage around 2 and 3 gear.
So far I did not hear the clack clack sound you have described when the transmission. I do hear some clack clack sound from the front after it rained though when I go past hump.
so the shock mounting replacement is not a solution after all. Maybe not enough grease
Item #1- yes you can.
Item #2- set to N / hand brake it will activate. If really don't like it to be on in a slow and bad traffic jam can always off the function.
Thanks Bro.
�
Think it's not a matter of whether can service outside or not but more of whether this will void the warranty. Touch wood, if something goes wrong with your car after 10k and as you do not have a record of servicing at AD, they may use this excuse that you did not service your car at the recommended intervals and thus caused the problem.
Inversely, you could prove that you did service your car outside but they can then say your mechanic caused the problem.
�
In short, think it's best to service at AD at least during the warranty period for peace of mind and to avoid any "taichi" by them. Happy New Year!!!
Agree, this is esp so for vehicles/technology that is not pervasively familar at the private car ws.
By the way, i think the new batch does not have any kok kok sound. Maybe i should say my ears din hear any strange sound for my car...
Should have waited for the new batch instead of taking the ex stock..haha
To share : car owner manual did mention ok to use 0w20(ultra) or 0w30(super) . But came across this write up for US continent:
http://www.smartsynt...les/5w20oil.htm
�
The manual you can use a lot of oil in fact.
But better to stick with W20 or W30 graded EO.
Thicker EO is good when the engine will be very hot most of the time, like in a long road trip or something.
This will allow the EO to derate to a slightly thinner oil and thus matches the engine.
I believe an engine with a thicker EO will feel smoother when rev hard ...�
�
Shifu here maybe can contribute some pointers as well.
Got scuff plate (outer) and Sport petal set from Mazda USA, Damage : $357 (incl shipping)�
�...
�
Went to Taobao and�got the below items�for the total damage of : $463
�
- scuff plate (inner)
- Cup holder (front and rear)�decoration
- Mzd Screen protector
- Boot Lip.
- Boot access protector (Inner and outer)
- sport Skirting
- Front and rear interior LED
- interior accessories (9 items)
- Exterior items (7 items)
Currently installing up to item 3 only. Will continue this holiday and weekend.
�
�
�
Post some photos for us to see. :)
Yours is which batch ex stock ?
Should have waited for the new batch instead of taking the ex stock..haha
Thanks bro, now I know what to hear out for in my new ride. Cheers.
Mine is ex stock as well...
Yours is which batch ex stock ?
�
I collected on first week of Nov. u?
They changed my lower arm bushing at 1000km.
It was better but still not fully resolved. Now, just the faint jingling sound on rough roads.
Edited by Dalenico, 02 January 2015 - 01:30 AM.
No, I didn't hear any unusual sounds during my drive.Hi brainstorm bro, did your car has this kok kok sound or any click click sound ?
Don't think mine is Ex stock. I think mine was a "reject" order from someone as my SE told me in early Nov that there is no more stock and they don't know when is the new shippment coming in 2015. He even show me the M3 stocklist online on his tablet is empty, no available stock. Then he called me the next day that there is one M3 suddenly appeared in the system with my colour and type (hatchback deluxe) that is currently being shipped for collection in mid Dec. Very lucky I guess... ha ha.
.
Mine was collected in mid Dec. I think is same batch as zzzzzz.I collected on first week of Nov. u?
They changed my lower arm bushing at 1000km.
It was better but still not fully resolved. Now, just the faint jingling sound on rough roads.
Edited by Brainstorm, 02 January 2015 - 05:33 AM.
I will step harder on the brake pedal to activate the istop first, then shift gear to N. The car will remain stop and now u can apply handbrake follow by release your foot from the brake pedal to relax. To start engine, you can either shift gear to D (engine will start), or you can step on the brake pedal again (engine will also start). Enjoy.
�
Good tip, thanks !�
�
I bought used ... S$199 for the set.
�
http://www.mycarforu...d&product=85757
�
Thanks!
Bookmarked the shop and check when free. Tempted to upgrade my stock speaker.
Mine is after 2nd bidding of COE in Dec and I collected on the last week of Dec.
�
Was told my is EX stock...
�
I collected on first week of Nov. u?
They changed my lower arm bushing at 1000km.
It was better but still not fully resolved. Now, just the faint jingling sound on rough roads.
�
Well.. good to hear that! Not sure if my batch is same as yours since mine is really EX stock in Dec.. Think the stock arrive after Dec 1st bidding, and I went in for the 2nd COE bidding...
�
�
No, I didn't hear any unusual sounds during my drive.
Don't think mine is Ex stock. I think mine was a "reject" order from someone as my SE told me in early Nov that there is no more stock and they don't know when is the new shippment coming in 2015. He even show me the M3 stocklist online on his tablet is empty, no available stock. Then he called me the next day that there is one M3 suddenly appeared in the system with my colour and type (hatchback deluxe) that is currently being shipped for collection in mid Dec. Very lucky I guess... ha ha.
.
Mine was collected in mid Dec. I think is same batch as zzzzzz.
�
�
�
Enjoy your ride! Don't think it is a big issue anyway. Cars with stiff suspension tend to have such noises.
�
�
�
Edited by Dalenico, 02 January 2015 - 10:43 AM.
I just notice that my M3 rear wheel well fender arch guard is half made of compressed grey fiber and the other half is the usual black plastic. The front wheel fender guard is all black plastic. Are you guys' M3 the same? You need to look into the rear wheel arch to see. Thks.
�
I read from somewhere that Mazda uses plant extract to make the plastic, the "green" way I think. But lost the link.
Happy New Year!
Has any one of you noticed that the Matt-finished dash board and the side where we rest our arm (especially next to the side windows) are easily stained. Any recommendation to reduce the stain mark, i.e. Brand of the cleaning solution?
Noted that unlike the Mz 6, the 3 when given a 2.0 engine, has a comp of 14.0 with the 'power up' to 162hp/210nm.
I am curious what is the logic behind this. �Then on Mz 5, the comp is lowered further to 12.0 with corresponding power & torque drop.
I just notice that my M3 rear wheel well fender arch guard is half made of compressed grey fiber and the other half is the usual black plastic. The front wheel fender guard is all black plastic. Are you guys' M3 the same? You need to look into the rear wheel arch to see. Thks.
Yeah same here..
To All M3 owners
Happy New Year!
Has any one of you noticed that the Matt-finished dash board and the side where we rest our arm (especially next to the side windows) are easily stained. Any recommendation to reduce the stain mark, i.e. Brand of the cleaning solution?
Yeah glad u posted this as I was wondering is it just me and my passengers arms are dirty causing the white marks to appear every now and there at these locations..
Yeah same here..
Yeah glad u posted this as I was wondering is it just me and my passengers arms are dirty causing the white marks to appear every now and there at these locations..
It is so obvious and eye sore that I need to clean it with one of those dash board cleaners.
To All M3 owners
Happy New Year!
Has any one of you noticed that the Matt-finished dash board and the side where we rest our arm (especially next to the side windows) are easily stained. Any recommendation to reduce the stain mark, i.e. Brand of the cleaning solution?
�
I use SONAX Matt finish dash cleaner for now.
I dont like those slippery / oily cleaners on the market.
Thanks!
Bookmarked the shop and check when free. Tempted to upgrade my stock speaker.
�
Anyway, as I had mentioned, if you love the sound of the sound now, DON'T change it.
It is really that good.
Spend your money on some ROLEX or happy times instead.
Edited by Variablefeedback, 02 January 2015 - 05:24 PM.
�
I use SONAX Matt finish dash cleaner for now.
I dont like those slippery / oily cleaners on the market.
�Noted, thank you for sharing!
To All M3 owners
Happy New Year!
Has any one of you noticed that the Matt-finished dash board and the side where we rest our arm (especially next to the side windows) are easily stained. Any recommendation to reduce the stain mark, i.e. Brand of the cleaning solution?
�
I am also using SONAX dashboard cleaner on my M6, but it's the glossy type.
SONAX glossy type is not as oily as other brands' (eg armorall).
Just went to do up my solar film, I used the installer meter to measure our M3 windows before installing the solar film (can't measure the front and back windscreen as the U-shape meter is not wide enough to go thru the car's pillars). Our windows are already tinted and are quite good. The glass has the following properties:
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Glass reading
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �77%
Visible Light transmission �73%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �82%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �80%
Visible Light transmission �72%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �83%
�
After installing the 90% (front) & 99% (rear) Infrared rejection solar film, the reading of film and end product are as follows:�
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Film's reading � � � � � � � � � � �End product (Film + Glass reading)
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �98% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �99%
Visible Light transmission �87% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �67%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �90% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �92%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
Visible Light transmission � 45% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 26%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
�
For your planning to choose what grade of solar film you want and if you are not installing solar film, the original window glass do seems to provide very good protection on its own. Cheers. �
�
.
I collected on first week of Nov. u?
They changed my lower arm bushing at 1000km.
It was better but still not fully resolved. Now, just the faint jingling sound on rough roads.
My ride is the Nov production and i collected it in mid/end-Dec.. My ride still has the dok dok sound when going over humps/uneven roads. Just went for 1,000km servicing today at Leng Kee and got them to check. Could only collect car at 6pm as they replaced the lower arm bushings too. Significant improvement after that! Passed quite a few humps on my way back and no more sound already. Hope it stays this way!
It is so obvious and eye sore that I need to clean it with one of those dash board cleaners.
Lol
Just went to do up my solar film, I used the installer meter to measure our M3 windows before installing the solar film (can't measure the front and back windscreen as the U-shape meter is not wide enough to go thru the car's pillars). Our windows are already tinted and are quite good. The glass has the following properties:
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Glass reading
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �77%
Visible Light transmission �73%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �82%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �80%
Visible Light transmission �72%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �83%
�
After installing the 90% (front) & 99% (rear) Infrared rejection solar film, the reading of film and end product are as follows:�
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Film's reading � � � � � � � � � � �End product (Film + Glass reading)
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �98% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �99%
Visible Light transmission �87% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �67%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �90% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �92%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
Visible Light transmission � 45% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 26%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
�
For your planning to choose what grade of solar film you want and if you are not installing solar film, the original window glass do seems to provide very good protection on its own. Cheers. �
�
.
Great info bro! But your "before" readings is without the RikeCool solar film installed with the car during delivery? Or u didn't ask for it?
Great info bro! But your "before" readings is without the RikeCool solar film installed with the car during delivery? Or u didn't ask for it?
�
My M3 doesn't have any solar film, my SE didnt give me any freebies leh... guess I'm not good in bargaining... sob sob..�
Just went to do up my solar film, I used the installer meter to measure our M3 windows before installing the solar film (can't measure the front and back windscreen as the U-shape meter is not wide enough to go thru the car's pillars). Our windows are already tinted and are quite good. The glass has the following properties:
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Glass reading
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �77%
Visible Light transmission �73%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �82%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �80%
Visible Light transmission �72%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �83%
�
After installing the 90% (front) & 99% (rear) Infrared rejection solar film, the reading of film and end product are as follows:�
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Film's reading � � � � � � � � � � �End product (Film + Glass reading)
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �98% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �99%
Visible Light transmission �87% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �67%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �90% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �92%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
Visible Light transmission � 45% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 26%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
�
For your planning to choose what grade of solar film you want and if you are not installing solar film, the original window glass do seems to provide very good protection on its own. Cheers. �
�
.
Just to reconfirm you did your solar film with RikeCool as mentioned by ekjm? Can you share the cost of installation?
Not sure if Mz workshop allows us to bring in our own oil if we bulk purchase the same type they use? Hope so man... i got their 3 years free servicing package until 60k km so after that got to think what to do...
They do not allow you to bring your own oil, even if it is the same type or brand. Paid double the price for their SHU for my Mazda 8.
Just to reconfirm you did your solar film with RikeCool as mentioned by ekjm? Can you share the cost of installation?
�
Nope, its not RikeCool, I spent about $700.�
They do not allow you to bring your own oil, even if it is the same type or brand. Paid double the price for their SHU for my Mazda 8.
�
What is SHU?�
If your windscreen is already quite well-protected, don't need to waste $$$ to do up solar films.
�
�
What is SHU?�
Hi, Shell Helix Ultra.
Edited by Jayc, 02 January 2015 - 09:14 PM.
Noted that unlike the Mz 6, the 3 when given a 2.0 engine, has a comp of 14.0 with the 'power up' to 162hp/210nm.
I am curious what is the logic behind this. �Then on Mz 5, the comp is lowered further to 12.0 with corresponding power & torque drop.
logic is family man dont need so power (very contradicting cos 7 pax need more power than 5 pax); executive saloon need more impressive spec for the "atas" buyer lol.
�
tokin about mz5 really a bit disappointed - no 6-7 airbags, no integrated hu/gps/rev cam combo, no drl / led head / tail lights, no discharge headlamps, too firm seats.
�
Good tip, thanks !�
Just to share, Put to N and release ur brake works too.
Thanks for the info. can help same some $$$Just went to do up my solar film, I used the installer meter to measure our M3 windows before installing the solar film (can't measure the front and back windscreen as the U-shape meter is not wide enough to go thru the car's pillars). Our windows are already tinted and are quite good. The glass has the following properties:
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Glass reading
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �77%
Visible Light transmission �73%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �82%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �80%
Visible Light transmission �72%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �83%
�
After installing the 90% (front) & 99% (rear) Infrared rejection solar film, the reading of film and end product are as follows:�
�
Front windows: � � � � � � � � � Film's reading � � � � � � � � � � �End product (Film + Glass reading)
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � �98% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �99%
Visible Light transmission �87% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �67%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � �90% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �92%
�
Rear windows:
UV Rejection � � � � � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
Visible Light transmission � 45% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 26%
Infrared Rejection � � � � � � � 99% � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �100%
�
For your planning to choose what grade of solar film you want and if you are not installing solar film, the original window glass do seems to provide very good protection on its own. Cheers. �
�
.



Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét