Is your ride delux or standard? Don't know is there any difference on the speaker confiq
I will get my daughter to type in the singer and title on computer, under 'properties' folder for each song. When you key in the singer name, the photo will display at the bottom right .
�
this answer is really "interesting and meaningful". this of course i know! it's already done right before. the mp3 has singer name and song name but it displays unknown track. I do not name the tracks "unknown mp3.mp3 or track1.mp3"
this answer is really "interesting and meaningful". this of course i know! it's already done right before. the mp3 has singer name and song name but it displays unknown track. I do not name the tracks "unknown mp3.mp3 or track1.mp3"
i believe he is referring to the track's identifier. Not the filename of the track.�
i believe he is referring to the track's identifier. Not the filename of the track.�
�
You need to change the ID3 tag of the song. You can do it in VLC player.
�
Drag the file to the playlist.
DON'T play the song.
Right click on the song title in the playlist.
Select 'Media Information'
Change the Title of the Song. (The filename itself will not change)
You can also edit the Artist name, Album name etc.
�
�
this answer is really "interesting and meaningful". this of course i know! it's already done right before. the mp3 has singer name and song name but it displays unknown track. I do not name the tracks "unknown mp3.mp3 or track1.mp3"
Unless your MP3 is brought from play store or Apple iTunes or else You will need to edit MP3 properties , under description type in the song title, under media , type in the singer name.
You need to change the ID3 tag of the song. You can do it in VLC player.
�
Drag the file to the playlist.
DON'T play the song.
Right click on the song title in the playlist.
Select 'Media Information'
Change the Title of the Song. (The filename itself will not change)
You can also edit the Artist name, Album name etc.
�
this worked well in VLC player.! thanks mate! cheers. problem solved.�
Edited by kohzcm, 24 July 2016 - 11:41 AM.
100K servicing cost $1K... its really crazy.
�
20K service at $400 and 100K service at $1K is quite expensive.
�
Can share what is being done and changes?
How do you all use the manual overide? Do you release accelerator before shifting gear?
How do we change the Navigation to show "remaining time to destination" rather than "expected time of arrival at destination" ?
Can't find it in the navigation settings.
Thanks.
Hi Guys,
�
My ride is about 10 months old, recently I've been hearing metal 'clicking' sounds coming from the front block driver side.
Anyone has this problem or know what this is??
its pretty random, sometimes throughout the whole drive it clicks once every 2-3 mins. Sometimes, only when you drive off, a couple clicks then no more.
Its driving me nuts!
Please help!
�
thanks!
Just to update about my idling vibration at 500RPM issue.�
�
Yesterday TEK replace with a improved mounting together with my 40K svc. So far no vibrations.�
Thanks for update Alvin. Which svc centre did you get it changed? Who is the Svc Advisor?Just to update about my idling vibration at 500RPM issue.
Yesterday TEK replace with a improved mounting together with my 40K svc. So far no vibrations.
Hi all Mazda 3 owner. I'm new to this forum and I just got my Mazda 3 few days back.
�
I would like to check with you do you find your ride more bumpy than other car? I found my new Mazda 3 rather bumpy even on in-building car park ground (should be flat surface). Not sure is it wheel balancing issue, suspension stiff or any other issue. Can anyone give some insights?
Hi Guys,
�
My ride is about 10 months old, recently I've been hearing metal 'clicking' sounds coming from the front block driver side.
Anyone has this problem or know what this is??
its pretty random, sometimes throughout the whole drive it clicks once every 2-3 mins. Sometimes, only when you drive off, a couple clicks then no more.
Its driving me nuts!Please help!
�
thanks!
�
Hi,
�
I experience the same "clicking" sounds and my car is 2 months old. What i do is to restart the engine?�
I am going in for a check mid Aug.�
Hi Guys,
�
My ride is about 10 months old, recently I've been hearing metal 'clicking' sounds coming from the front block driver side.
Anyone has this problem or know what this is??
its pretty random, sometimes throughout the whole drive it clicks once every 2-3 mins. Sometimes, only when you drive off, a couple clicks then no more.
Its driving me nuts!Please help!
�
thanks!
Yes, Mine does that too. Mine's 11 months old and I have been having this problem since the 5-6th month. And yes it really drives me nuts too. Problem is I have been complaining to TEK service and whenever tester drives it does not happen. but I do believe it has something to do with the device that monitors the position of the steering. but TEK has always taken the position that they have not had anyone with this symptom. not much done, except to change a brake switch which in the first place is not the one causing the symptom.�
�
Overall I find this drive more disappointing than ever but having committed to the purchase (and the high cost of vehicles in Singapore), just bite the bullet... here's my experience with my ride.
�
What I like:
1) Styling of the car exterior
2) Aesthetics of interior
3) Reasonable fuel consumption on the move
�
My experience (basically what I dislike):
�
1) iStop did not work from day one I took delivery of the car. SA keeps telling me that you need to put more brake pressure, but believe me, any more brake pressure would but a hole through. This was later deduced to a faulty battery which was replaced after I brought it in before 1K.
�
2) From the first day of driving, I felt that the skyactive engine vibrates and the vibration is non consistent (regular), feels like sputtering, and it is very subtle. That I felt kinda weird for a new car. �I had highlighted it at 1K Servicing, even having a tester drive it. However, sang the song that there's no vibration.
�
3) Front suspension. In a month of driving, there is always a creaking sound from the front as I go over humps, or drive on uneven roads. After like 3 rounds of oiling, changing arms and bushings, the creaking sound has minimized. It still happens today.�
�
4) Rumbling and vibrating noise coming from dashboard at driver side, when travelling on uneven surfaces (cobblestones at building drive thrus). Irritates the hell out of me. But again, tester may have selective hearing and says non existent, and to monitor again.
�
5) In the 5th month, vibration of engine became more obvious. TEK's suggestion was to have some mounting changed, which I had to wait a month for replacement parts. After replacement, the feel of the vibration is like that of month 0-5. Again disappointing. which also leads me to question how long will this new mounting last before getting it changed again. If it lasted only 6 months, I might have to get it changed 20 times over the 10 year cycle...:). I asked for the engine idle to be tuned up a little, but "there is nothing TEK can do, due to the fact its all computer controlled."
�
6) Softer that usual body, which might be the factor in reducing weight to achieve the consumption level. Other than the easily dinged body from car doors, I had the chance of sandwiching the belt buckle while lightly closing the door. That put a rather huge ding at the door well, which is why I say the body is rather soft, but I'm sure critical areas are safe and reinforced.�
�
7) Squeeky brakes that originates from brake pedals...for a less than 1 year old car?! Or maybe I introduced it based on SA advise when I had iStop problem...:)
�
8) Random clicking sound from the steering (usually from stationary to moving off), as mentioned above. Irritating as hell....
�
9) Woosy horn that one can barely hear in emergency situations. Change.
�
So after countless highlights and not much improvements that can done by AD, just bear with it and drive with music to drown whatever inconsistencies the ride has. Hopefully it can last 10 years or I can tahan 10 years, which ever comes first...:)
Till today, I cringe whenever I drive without music.
�
It would be good for existing owners to share if they have such encounters I mentioned and also potential buyers to be aware.
Hi,
�
I experience the same "clicking" sounds and my car is 2 months old. What i do is to restart the engine?�
I am going in for a check mid Aug.�
�
The clicking sound comes from the electro-mechanical relay switch (I'm not 100% sure, but a relay switch sounds exactly just like that). You guys can read up the following pdf below for more info. My guess is that something must be triggering the on-off operation. The main culprit might be (my own guess) i-eloop (triggered by acceleration/deceleration) or auto headlight/light dimming/DRL (triggered by changes in brightness - however if you hear the clicking sound at night, most probably it is not due to this).
�
The next time the sound happen again, everyone please help to pay attention to what could be the trigger! I'm also pretty puzzled and wanted to see what exactly is the cause but the clicking sound has not surfaced recently... or maybe my radio is too loud? haha.
�
http://www.autoshop1...forms/hweb2.pdf
Edited by Madtari, 28 July 2016 - 02:03 PM.
The clicking sound comes from the electro-mechanical relay switch (I'm not 100% sure, but a relay switch sounds exactly just like that). You guys can read up the following pdf below for more info. My guess is that something must be triggering the on-off operation. The main culprit might be (my own guess) i-eloop (triggered by acceleration/deceleration) or auto headlight/light dimming/DRL (triggered by changes in brightness - however if you hear the clicking sound at night, most probably it is not due to this).
�
The next time the sound happen again, everyone please help to pay attention to what could be the trigger! I'm also pretty puzzled and wanted to see what exactly is the cause but the clicking sound has not surfaced recently... or maybe my radio is too loud? haha.
�
Mine's definitely not like the sound of a relay click. It is more like a "tock" sound that is very audible and seems to come from the steering column. It is very random. Sometimes doesn't happen and when it does, I noticed it is usually just at the point of moving off (coming off the brake pedal to accelerator).�
The clicking sound comes from the electro-mechanical relay switch (I'm not 100% sure, but a relay switch sounds exactly just like that). You guys can read up the following pdf below for more info. My guess is that something must be triggering the on-off operation. The main culprit might be (my own guess) i-eloop (triggered by acceleration/deceleration) or auto headlight/light dimming/DRL (triggered by changes in brightness - however if you hear the clicking sound at night, most probably it is not due to this).
�
The next time the sound happen again, everyone please help to pay attention to what could be the trigger! I'm also pretty puzzled and wanted to see what exactly is the cause but the clicking sound has not surfaced recently... or maybe my radio is too loud? haha.
�
�
Thanks. I will update you guys after my servicing in mid Aug.�
There is once , I had this click or sound from the driver side. In the end, I found out it's due to the electric seat being set to the highest which cause the sound.Mine's definitely not like the sound of a relay click. It is more like a "tock" sound that is very audible and seems to come from the steering column. It is very random. Sometimes doesn't happen and when it does, I noticed it is usually just at the point of moving off (coming off the brake pedal to accelerator).
I also encounter when doing a U turn, steering wheel in full lock position can cause clicking sound.. But for mine is intermittent, have yet to check with TEK
If u r hearing d sound only after about 10mths, maybe somethg had come loose. Noise in car is very deceptive and often only sounded like it is coming from a certain angle, but in fact it is not.Hi Guys,
My ride is about 10 months old, recently I've been hearing metal 'clicking' sounds coming from the front block driver side.
Anyone has this problem or know what this is??
its pretty random, sometimes throughout the whole drive it clicks once every 2-3 mins. Sometimes, only when you drive off, a couple clicks then no more.
Its driving me nuts!
Please help!
thanks!
Some time back, I had my car central cabin light that came loose and it had sounded like a loose wire hitting plastic, and produced a intermittent clicking noise, that seemed to come fr the driver side to the front passenger and vice versa.
My comments on ur experience:Yes, Mine does that too. Mine's 11 months old and I have been having this problem since the 5-6th month. And yes it really drives me nuts too. Problem is I have been complaining to TEK service and whenever tester drives it does not happen. but I do believe it has something to do with the device that monitors the position of the steering. but TEK has always taken the position that they have not had anyone with this symptom. not much done, except to change a brake switch which in the first place is not the one causing the symptom.
Overall I find this drive more disappointing than ever but having committed to the purchase (and the high cost of vehicles in Singapore), just bite the bullet... here's my experience with my ride.
What I like:
1) Styling of the car exterior
2) Aesthetics of interior
3) Reasonable fuel consumption on the move
My experience (basically what I dislike):
1) iStop did not work from day one I took delivery of the car. SA keeps telling me that you need to put more brake pressure, but believe me, any more brake pressure would but a hole through. This was later deduced to a faulty battery which was replaced after I brought it in before 1K.
2) From the first day of driving, I felt that the skyactive engine vibrates and the vibration is non consistent (regular), feels like sputtering, and it is very subtle. That I felt kinda weird for a new car. I had highlighted it at 1K Servicing, even having a tester drive it. However, sang the song that there's no vibration.
3) Front suspension. In a month of driving, there is always a creaking sound from the front as I go over humps, or drive on uneven roads. After like 3 rounds of oiling, changing arms and bushings, the creaking sound has minimized. It still happens today.
4) Rumbling and vibrating noise coming from dashboard at driver side, when travelling on uneven surfaces (cobblestones at building drive thrus). Irritates the hell out of me. But again, tester may have selective hearing and says non existent, and to monitor again.
5) In the 5th month, vibration of engine became more obvious. TEK's suggestion was to have some mounting changed, which I had to wait a month for replacement parts. After replacement, the feel of the vibration is like that of month 0-5. Again disappointing. which also leads me to question how long will this new mounting last before getting it changed again. If it lasted only 6 months, I might have to get it changed 20 times over the 10 year cycle...:). I asked for the engine idle to be tuned up a little, but "there is nothing TEK can do, due to the fact its all computer controlled."
6) Softer that usual body, which might be the factor in reducing weight to achieve the consumption level. Other than the easily dinged body from car doors, I had the chance of sandwiching the belt buckle while lightly closing the door. That put a rather huge ding at the door well, which is why I say the body is rather soft, but I'm sure critical areas are safe and reinforced.
7) Squeeky brakes that originates from brake pedals...for a less than 1 year old car?! Or maybe I introduced it based on SA advise when I had iStop problem...:)
8) Random clicking sound from the steering (usually from stationary to moving off), as mentioned above. Irritating as hell....
9) Woosy horn that one can barely hear in emergency situations. Change.
So after countless highlights and not much improvements that can done by AD, just bear with it and drive with music to drown whatever inconsistencies the ride has. Hopefully it can last 10 years or I can tahan 10 years, which ever comes first...:)
Till today, I cringe whenever I drive without music.
It would be good for existing owners to share if they have such encounters I mentioned and also potential buyers to be aware.
(1) Yes..it seemed battery condition can affect the istop function. I experienced istop not working and when i changed a new Q85 (?) Battery, it was ok again.
(2) Only "engine vibration" I experienced was the occasional ones when idle speed dropped too low but the ecu quickly corrected itself so it dun really bug me.
(3) creaking sound from front dampers...yes! I still get it whenever it rained n dampers are wet. Dry days is ok.
(4) nope. Thk goodness!
(5) no engine vibration in my case...so far.
(6) soft metal..agreed! I said this here b4..n the paint is exceptionally thin.
(7) no problem w noisy brakes.
(8) nope.
(9) wimpy original horn..yes.
Overall..i am still quite contented w my 2yr old ride...cos d car looks "hot" and i love the cabin layout...esply the headup display.
If u r hearing d sound only after about 10mths, maybe somethg had come loose. Noise in car is very deceptive and often only sounded like it is coming from a certain angle, but in fact it is not.
Some time back, I had my car central cabin light that came loose and it had sounded like a loose wire hitting plastic, and produced a intermittent clicking noise, that seemed to come fr the driver side to the front passenger and vice versa.
�
�
Thanks all for your responses, I guess I gotta bring it down to TEK for troubleshooting.
Got a feeling they going to shrug their shoulders say no one has this problem again.
Their after sales service really damn chia lat!
Mine's definitely not like the sound of a relay click. It is more like a "tock" sound that is very audible and seems to come from the steering column. It is very random. Sometimes doesn't happen and when it does, I noticed it is usually just at the point of moving off (coming off the brake pedal to accelerator).�
�
i only hear it when i do a full lock steering to park..otherwise no tock sound at all.
�
the new engine mounting doesnt solve the vibration issue.�
i have changed. it still vibrates.
�
recourse: i am going to see if lemon law works in this case as i have raised the issue at 1k servicing (within 3mths of purchase).
i only hear it when i do a full lock steering to park..otherwise no tock sound at all.
�
the new engine mounting doesnt solve the vibration issue.�
i have changed. it still vibrates.
�
recourse: i am going to see if lemon law works in this case as i have raised the issue at 1k servicing (within 3mths of purchase).
�
Hi Privacy,
�
Could you please keep us posted on the outcome for the lemon law thingy?
thanks a bunch!
Actually I notice that if istop is activated (green), the idling is quite constant at 7-8k rpm & do not go too low til 5-6k rpm that cause the engine vibration! Once istop deactivated (orange), there will be at least a few vibration due to low rpm throughout the red light stop waiting time! Do you guys notice as well? I've also highlighted the issue to TEK during servicing but nothing been done! Afterall, it may not be the mounting issue, TEK SA ever told me that they have already feedback to Japan AD to tune up the idling slightly! So there maybe software updates to this issue but don't know how true/firm is it! Crossing my fingers...i only hear it when i do a full lock steering to park..otherwise no tock sound at all.
the new engine mounting doesnt solve the vibration issue.
i have changed. it still vibrates.
recourse: i am going to see if lemon law works in this case as i have raised the issue at 1k servicing (within 3mths of purchase).
Did you have an accident 2 years ago? �If you did, is it true that you did not declare?
i mentioned to my SE, signed some paper and that's it.�
�
I dont remember if the paper i signed included a declaration. i had assumed that they would check on my background before approving my premium or whatever.�
i mentioned to my SE, signed some paper and that's it.�
�
I dont remember if the paper i signed included a declaration. i had assumed that they would check on my background before approving my premium or whatever.�
�
assumed is the keyword in this post.
Dear all,�
�
This is a new issue for all to advise on.�
�
I got my M3 in April, and recently got a call from ARF, which claims to be AIG's intermediary.�
�
AIG claims that during whatever submission was made to AIG when i signed on the dotted line, that no declaration was made about a claim I made due to a car accident I got into about 2 years ago.�
�
Because they only found about the claim, they said they have to charge me almost 600 more for the insurance premium. I already paid 2k.�
�
Has anyone encountered this before?�
�
Ok so this is the situation. Yes you did not declare = pay up. Legally you are trying to pull off a fast one which you yourself know too.
i mentioned to my SE, signed some paper and that's it.�
�
I dont remember if the paper i signed included a declaration. i had assumed that they would check on my background before approving my premium or whatever.�
�
�
Suck it up and pay the extra premium. �If the insurance company cancels your policy, which they can, you will have even more problems to get get another policy.
assumed is the keyword in this post.
�
Ok so this is the situation. Yes you did not declare = pay up. Legally you are trying to pull off a fast one which you yourself know too.
no. i am wondering if mazda or my SE tried to pull a fast one on me. I did tell my SE that i got into an accident. surely AIG should have checked on my driving record before they quoted me the premium. How can they call me up after a few months to say i didnt declare without even providing any documental proof.�
Hi All;
�
Please recommend me minor body repair shop as alternative other than eurokars.
Car got hit by foreign object flew off by�lorry in front.
�
Thank you.
�
no. i am wondering if mazda or my SE tried to pull a fast one on me. I did tell my SE that i got into an accident. surely AIG should have checked on my driving record before they quoted me the premium. How can they call me up after a few months to say i didnt declare without even providing any documental proof.�
�
Of course they can, cos you signed the contract, and the contract did say any non-declaration would ensue a penalty :) Don't try to wriggle your way out lei.
�
If you not happy then cancel la no need talk so much see which other company will quote u insurance.
Edited by Runforyourlife, 03 August 2016 - 04:43 PM.
no. i am wondering if mazda or my SE tried to pull a fast one on me. I did tell my SE that i got into an accident. surely AIG should have checked on my driving record before they quoted me the premium. How can they call me up after a few months to say i didnt declare without even providing any documental proof.�
�
The documentary proof is that in the insurance documents your SE submitted. there will be a field which asks whether you have been involved in an accident in the past 3-5 years. �Your SE did not fill that in, and although you "mentioned" it, you did not read the document before you signed. �The onus is on you to declare, not on the insurance company to check.
�
You mean if you have a pre-existing condition �and you buy medical insurance, you just "mention" it is good enough? �No need to say anything more or provide details? �Then insurance company must investigate the state of your health and insure you? �Cannot be right?
no. i am wondering if mazda or my SE tried to pull a fast one on me. I did tell my SE that i got into an accident. surely AIG should have checked on my driving record before they quoted me the premium. How can they call me up after a few months to say i didnt declare without even providing any documental proof.�
Wah.. kena caught then say people sabo you? Just pay up and don't waste any other people's time. You are lucky they didn't reject you and pay you pro-rated premium back. You will have bigger problem if they don't want to insure you. For them to increase the premium, you must have got into quite a serious accident. Those kujin kurah one I doubt thing they bother to even commit resources to crawl back.
Wah.. kena caught then say people sabo you? Just pay up and don't waste any other people's time. You are lucky they didn't reject you and pay you pro-rated premium back. You will have bigger problem if they don't want to insure you. For them to increase the premium, you must have got into quite a serious accident. Those kujin kurah one I doubt thing they bother to even commit resources to crawl back.
�
i wouldnt have lied since i know that insurance companies have a way of checking on records.�
�
And i did tell my SE i had had an accident before. I just cant recall if the form i signed made the necessary declaration.
�
My only suspicion is that they perhaps didnt help tick the necessary boxes in the form or whatever so that that i would just choose to go with AIG because of the lower premium, and then let them chase after me for increment subsequently.
The documentary proof is that in the insurance documents your SE submitted. there will be a field which asks whether you have been involved in an accident in the past 3-5 years. �Your SE did not fill that in, and although you "mentioned" it, you did not read the document before you signed. �The onus is on you to declare, not on the insurance company to check.
�
You mean if you have a pre-existing condition �and you buy medical insurance, you just "mention" it is good enough? �No need to say anything more or provide details? �Then insurance company must investigate the state of your health and insure you? �Cannot be right?
health insurance is different.�
�
checking on accidents is another, which is easy what. When u ask for quotes to renew insurance, companies will check your records and quote accordingly one mah. No?
Hi All;
�
Please recommend me minor body repair shop as alternative other than eurokars.
Car got hit by foreign object flew off by�lorry in front.
�
Thank you.
No. They are not so free to check everyone who asks for a quote.i wouldnt have lied since i know that insurance companies have a way of checking on records.
And i did tell my SE i had had an accident before. I just cant recall if the form i signed made the necessary declaration.
My only suspicion is that they perhaps didnt help tick the necessary boxes in the form or whatever so that that i would just choose to go with AIG because of the lower premium, and then let them chase after me for increment subsequently.
health insurance is different.
checking on accidents is another, which is easy what. When u ask for quotes to renew insurance, companies will check your records and quote accordingly one mah. No?
Wow, I hope the exhaust for 1.5 is approve as well! Quite keen to install Remus exhaust, very bassy! Any idea which shop carries them & what is the damage?yeah... Remus for 2.0L is already approved... but I guess is not full catback
Mazda stockist should have the vipers? Maybe can call fong yat or chin hon to find out!same here. need to replace after 1yr
Mazda stockist should have the vipers? Maybe can call fong yat or chin hon to find out!
Please update here if anyone has found out. TIA!!
Has any tired to install 3.5" mid speaker in place of the stock 1" tweeter recess at the top dashboard corners? i am considering going for a 3 way set up with the 6.5" mid bass at door panel, 3.5 " mid speaker at dash, and 1" tweeter on A pillar pod. I need to confirm if the 3.5" speaker can fit inside. also anybody has any feedback on rainbow 3 way speaker(SL-C6.3) or any good ones to recommend?
Thank you Bro.
�
�
�
Hi All;
�
Please recommend me minor body repair shop as alternative other than eurokars.
Car got hit by foreign object flew off by�lorry in front.
�
Thank you.
�
�
i wouldnt have lied since i know that insurance companies have a way of checking on records.�
�
And i did tell my SE i had had an accident before. I just cant recall if the form i signed made the necessary declaration.
�
My only suspicion is that they perhaps didnt help tick the necessary boxes in the form or whatever so that that i would just choose to go with AIG because of the lower premium, and then let them chase after me for increment subsequently.
health insurance is different.�
�
checking on accidents is another, which is easy what. When u ask for quotes to renew insurance, companies will check your records and quote accordingly one mah. No?
Regardless, now kena dig out, just pay. Anyway, if your SE did his due diligence to tick, you would have paid for the extra premium already. Or worst case, they may not even want to cover you.
i wouldnt have lied since i know that insurance companies have a way of checking on records.�
�
And i did tell my SE i had had an accident before. I just cant recall if the form i signed made the necessary declaration.
�
My only suspicion is that they perhaps didnt help tick the necessary boxes in the form or whatever so that that i would just choose to go with AIG because of the lower premium, and then let them chase after me for increment subsequently.
health insurance is different.�
�
checking on accidents is another, which is easy what. When u ask for quotes to renew insurance, companies will check your records and quote accordingly one mah. No?
�
Anyway just to wrap up the story. its very annoying when everyone just assumed i was the one playing punk.�
�
So i did declare in the form. the insurance company probably didnt bother to check on the claim amount and just quoted me.�
�
�
Anyway just to wrap up the story. its very annoying when everyone just assumed i was the one playing punk.�
�
So i did declare in the form. the insurance company probably didnt bother to check on the claim amount and just quoted me.�
Nobody assume you playing punk. it is the way you pitch it and make it seem like you are a victim. Actually, you are just paying for what you should be paying. You are lucky they didn't say wanna charge interest lost etc.
Anyway just to wrap up the story. its very annoying when everyone just assumed i was the one playing punk.�
�
So i did declare in the form. the insurance company probably didnt bother to check on the claim amount and just quoted me.�
�
1000oceans.. like all said... no point dwelling on this... jus pay up and enjoy ur ride... look for a cheaper insurance next year...�
Wow, I hope the exhaust for 1.5 is approve as well! Quite keen to install Remus exhaust, very bassy! Any idea which shop carries them & what is the damage?
as far as I know... there is no approved exhaust for 1.5L yet...�
Has any tired to install 3.5" mid speaker in place of the stock 1" tweeter recess at the top dashboard corners? i am considering going for a 3 way set up with the 6.5" mid bass at door panel, 3.5 " mid speaker at dash, and 1" tweeter on A pillar pod. I need to confirm if the 3.5" speaker can fit inside. also anybody has any feedback on rainbow 3 way speaker(SL-C6.3) or any good ones to recommend?
I dun think u can do much with the stock HU if running 3-way... probably you will need a processor to get a better sound quality..�
Speaker choice really depends on the music u r listening to.. I was on Focal before and really like the clarity .. AMP does play a part too..�
Anybody install? Price? Izzit necessary?
�
1000oceans.. like all said... no point dwelling on this... jus pay up and enjoy ur ride... look for a cheaper insurance next year...�
�
Ok, seems like no one got my point.�
�
All of us were given a choice if we want to go with AIG or not when we decided to buy Mazda. If you dont go with AIG, u dont get the $500 rebate.�
�
Back then, I made my declaration, got a quote, and then i made the assessment it is worth going with AIG and i signed.�
�
This is about whether at that point in time i was given the right information to make the choice. As a service provider, they cannot months down the road said they quoted me wrongly and decide to charge me higher. in fact, they claimed i never declared, which was a lie in the first place.
Anybody install? Price? Izzit necessary?
"Necessary" is very subjective... i would say anything comes with the car stock is necessary, any add-ons are good to have �
�
Depends on your driving habits... strut bar does make a difference but not much ... when you have that on your ride, next you will ask abt undercarriage bar, anti-roller bar, suspension... the list never end...�
�
For my case, a good lowered suspension + good tyres �is good enuff for some spirited driving..�
�
�
"Necessary" is very subjective... i would say anything comes with the car stock is necessary, any add-ons are good to have
�
Depends on your driving habits... strut bar does make a difference but not much ... when you have that on your ride, next you will ask abt undercarriage bar, anti-roller bar, suspension... the list never end...�
�
For my case, a good lowered suspension + good tyres �is good enuff for some spirited driving..�
Nice feedback....I scare block the battery....everytime chk or change batt must remove...
Can confirm if u did or did not check the box tat states "accidents before".i wouldnt have lied since i know that insurance companies have a way of checking on records.
And i did tell my SE i had had an accident before. I just cant recall if the form i signed made the necessary declaration.
My only suspicion is that they perhaps didnt help tick the necessary boxes in the form or whatever so that that i would just choose to go with AIG because of the lower premium, and then let them chase after me for increment subsequently.
health insurance is different.
checking on accidents is another, which is easy what. When u ask for quotes to renew insurance, companies will check your records and quote accordingly one mah. No?
Do reflect if this is your mistake first.
If you did declare, you have grounds for contest and get legal representation. But likely you will just pay $600 cos it's too "troublesome" just your bad luck and not your fault.
Aig mus be doing badly to initiate such a conspiracy to round up drivers who dun declare and for tat matter, go thru so much administrative efforts just for $600 more.
Actually 1000oceans is not the only one. Same thing happened to me. I did declared that I got into accident before. I was quote 1k plus more after 5months into the policy. In the end, I don't even bothee. Just go find another company with lower premium. No point dwelling over it when there's nothing you can do. Most importantly, enjoy your ride.Can confirm if u did or did not check the box tat states "accidents before".
Do reflect if this is your mistake first.
If you did declare, you have grounds for contest and get legal representation. But likely you will just pay $600 cos it's too "troublesome" just your bad luck and not your fault.
Aig mus be doing badly to initiate such a conspiracy to round up drivers who dun declare and for tat matter, go thru so much administrative efforts just for $600 more.
Then process issue Liao. No pt declaring also. It's almost holding u ransom after you sign up. Jus good to Hv black and white these days to cover yourself in any legal doc. Iras sent me a penalty letter for unpaid tax in 2001. I had to pull out my records and screen capture and stuff it back to them then they admitted they found it and apologise for the inconvenience. I doubt they will be as kind if i dun Hv any proof.Actually 1000oceans is not the only one. Same thing happened to me. I did declared that I got into accident before. I was quote 1k plus more after 5months into the policy. In the end, I don't even bothee. Just go find another company with lower premium. No point dwelling over it when there's nothing you can do. Most importantly, enjoy your ride.
6 speed conventional auto transmission via torque converter with manual selection over ride(direct mode)
Actually 1000oceans is not the only one. Same thing happened to me. I did declared that I got into accident before. I was quote 1k plus more after 5months into the policy. In the end, I don't even bothee. Just go find another company with lower premium. No point dwelling over it when there's nothing you can do. Most importantly, enjoy your ride.
�
what happened to the premium u earlier paid. Did they pro-rate and return.�
�
I am enjoying my ride and i intend to enjoy it while not paying a single cent more unless i can help it. I scolded the AIG rep when he called me last friday, he sounded like he understand and said he will discuss with the AIG side. I wouldnt have been so angry if they had not lied i didnt declare in the first place.
i only hear it when i do a full lock steering to park..otherwise no tock sound at all.
�
the new engine mounting doesnt solve the vibration issue.�
i have changed. it still vibrates.
�
recourse: i am going to see if lemon law works in this case as i have raised the issue at 1k servicing (within 3mths of purchase).
Do let us know if any outcome. I would be interested to know.�
Called to book 20K servicing yesterday and earliest available slot is 25 August!!!�
�
Reminds me of the support of my previous German ride 3 years ago....�
�
By the way, just to check, service intervals are at 10K right?
My last servicing was done at 11,649km. Which means next servicing should be 21,649km.
�
However, Odo now reads 22089, service interval setting has 1174km remaining. ie 23,263km before maintenance light will come on.
I wonder why they set extra Km for interval. Any similar experiences?
Lol that's why I always call in a month in advance to book for servicing since I learnt my lesson in 2014 for my 5k km servicing. I have been telling them that their sales have been too good until service centre cannot cope.Called to book 20K servicing yesterday and earliest available slot is 25 August!!!
Reminds me of the support of my previous German ride 3 years ago....
By the way, just to check, service intervals are at 10K right?
My last servicing was done at 11,649km. Which means next servicing should be 21,649km.
However, Odo now reads 22089, service interval setting has 1174km remaining. ie 23,263km before maintenance light will come on.
I wonder why they set extra Km for interval. Any similar experiences?
Anyone did sound proofing for your MZ3?�
�
If so, which part of the car to soundproof to eliminate the wind noise problem?�
Lol that's why I always call in a month in advance to book for servicing since I learnt my lesson in 2014 for my 5k km servicing. I have been telling them that their sales have been too good until service centre cannot cope.
VW?
Reminds me of the support of my previous German ride 3 years ago....
Cant fit.. 2.5" mid maybe can.. U can consider full range tweeter from mercury, scanspeaks.. Then u dont need the midrange.Has any tired to install 3.5" mid speaker in place of the stock 1" tweeter recess at the top dashboard corners? i am considering going for a 3 way set up with the 6.5" mid bass at door panel, 3.5 " mid speaker at dash, and 1" tweeter on A pillar pod. I need to confirm if the 3.5" speaker can fit inside. also anybody has any feedback on rainbow 3 way speaker(SL-C6.3) or any good ones to recommend?
6 speed conventional auto transmission via torque converter with manual selection over ride(direct mode)
�
�
"Any one know that our Mazda 3 auto transmission ride is AMT or CVT or DCT? Thanks"
�
�
anyone can give me a summary on how many type of auto transmission are there in the car nowadays?
Our Mazda 3 6 speed auto transmission is under AMT, CVT or DCT ?��� Pretty confuse here..
"Any one know that our Mazda 3 auto transmission ride is AMT or CVT or DCT? Thanks"
�
�
anyone can give me a summary on how many type of auto transmission are there in the car nowadays?
Our Mazda 3 6 speed auto transmission is under AMT, CVT or DCT ?��� Pretty confuse here..
�
its pretty simple, nothing to get confused about. to break it down to the bare basics, there are two main camps in auto transmission:
�
1) conventional(planetary) auto transmission where its very similar to manual transmission, e.g. a fixed number of gears(steps), whereby the selection of gears are chosen by the ecu based on a magnitude of factors such as speed, load, accelerator depression etc. the selected gear transmit the engine power from the engine flywheel to the drive shaft(wheels) via the torque converter, which is the equivalent of a clutch but instead of two friction plates coming into contact with each other to transmit power, the torque converter uses two plates with opposing vanes(turbines) filled with oil as a power transfer medium. one plate connected to the auto transmission spins as the engine turns, causing the oil to rotate inside the round housing and this oil will in turn push against the vanes of the second plate to rotate and turn the drive shaft. when you stop at the traffic junction and step on the brakes, the first plate is still turning(idle engine) and moving all the oil around but the second plate is stationary as the brakes prevents the drive shaft from turning. �
�
there are many variants of the conventional auto trans with different names given to their system to try and set themselves apart but the general working principle is the same.
�
2) continuous variable transmission(CVT) can be viewed as two cones(one input and one output) with a belt connecting them. as the belt moves along the axis of the two cones, e.g from smaller circumference to bigger, the "gearing" ratio changes so the torque amplification and turning speed is changed depending on the location of the belts along the cones. the ecu decides where the belts should be for optimum "gearing" ratio. as oppose to planetary trans, cvt has no "steps" so drivers will not feel the lost in power between each gears like the conventional transmission. cvt transmissions are generally more efficient as they can better keep the engine rpm within the engine's optimum power band due the "infinite" gears they provide, they are also viewed by many driving enthusiast as lacking in sportiness and fun as there is no familiar jerk of a punchy up shift during s spirited drive.
its pretty simple, nothing to get confused about. to break it down to the bare basics, there are two main camps in auto transmission:
�
1) conventional(planetary) auto transmission where its very similar to manual transmission, e.g. a fixed number of gears(steps), whereby the selection of gears are chosen by the ecu based on a magnitude of factors such as speed, load, accelerator depression etc. the selected gear transmit the engine power from the engine flywheel to the drive shaft(wheels) via the torque converter, which is the equivalent of a clutch but instead of two friction plates coming into contact with each other to transmit power, the torque converter uses two plates with opposing vanes(turbines) filled with oil as a power transfer medium. one plate connected to the auto transmission spins as the engine turns, causing the oil to rotate inside the round housing and this oil will in turn push against the vanes of the second plate to rotate and turn the drive shaft. when you stop at the traffic junction and step on the brakes, the first plate is still turning(idle engine) and moving all the oil around but the second plate is stationary as the brakes prevents the drive shaft from turning. �
�
there are many variants of the conventional auto trans with different names given to their system to try and set themselves apart but the general working principle is the same.
�
2) continuous variable transmission(CVT) can be viewed as two cones(one input and one output) with a belt connecting them. as the belt moves along the axis of the two cones, e.g from smaller circumference to bigger, the "gearing" ratio changes so the torque amplification and turning speed is changed depending on the location of the belts along the cones. the ecu decides where the belts should be for optimum "gearing" ratio. as oppose to planetary trans, cvt has no "steps" so drivers will not feel the lost in power between each gears like the conventional transmission. cvt transmissions are generally more efficient as they can better keep the engine rpm within the engine's optimum power band due the "infinite" gears they provide, they are also viewed by many driving enthusiast as lacking in sportiness and fun as there is no familiar jerk of a punchy up shift during s spirited drive.
�
great explanation
The rear edge of front door obviously lack of seal. It's from top to bottom. I bought some seal from taobao to fill up the gap, but now sound seems like coming from front edge. The tape on the deal also didn't last, maybe due to hot weather. Conclusion is don't waste money, you will probably get use to it.Anyone did sound proofing for your MZ3?
If so, which part of the car to soundproof to eliminate the wind noise problem?
Finally Q85 battery can buy off the shelf. Saw it at autobac at $290. No longer need to pay TEK $400.
�
�� $290 is still a lot to pay for a battery regardless if its an AGM battery or not. does any mazda 3 owner here experience any battery issue or already require replacement? please share.
�
i have a ctek battery reconditioner/charger whereby i would lug my battery home from my previous ride to recondition and charge overnight at home and the last battery lasted me more then 3 years and still going strong when i scrap the car. i hope it works for the current battery as well...
What I know there will be a master warning light at the dash board for battery weak. Due ieloop not working properly when battery weak. So I assume it's kind of monitoring, not like the convention battery have to wait for cold cranking sound than realize battery is weak.$290 is still a lot to pay for a battery regardless if its an AGM battery or not. does any mazda 3 owner here experience any battery issue or already require replacement? please share.
i have a ctek battery reconditioner/charger whereby i would lug my battery home from my previous ride to recondition and charge overnight at home and the last battery lasted me more then 3 years and still going strong when i scrap the car. i hope it works for the current battery as well...
Anyway this is the price at autobac , slightly more expensive. Other retailer might be cheaper. Hopefully this thread will eventually leads us to the cheapest shop.
Edited by Ahxiu40, 11 August 2016 - 02:26 PM.
Anyway just to wrap up the story. its very annoying when everyone just assumed i was the one playing punk.�
�
So i did declare in the form. the insurance company probably didnt bother to check on the claim amount and just quoted me.�
�
Nothing to be annoyed about if you ain't playing punk.
�
Its funny you said you "declare on the form". And the next thing you said "declare by telling SE". Your uncertain pitch made it seem like you're withholding info/evidence thats all :s
Called to book 20K servicing yesterday and earliest available slot is 25 August!!!�
�
Reminds me of the support of my previous German ride 3 years ago....�
�
By the way, just to check, service intervals are at 10K right?
My last servicing was done at 11,649km. Which means next servicing should be 21,649km.
�
However, Odo now reads 22089, service interval setting has 1174km remaining. ie 23,263km before maintenance light will come on.
I wonder why they set extra Km for interval. Any similar experiences?
�
Hmm i have a qn. 10k servicing coming up in a couple of months. They told me can do night one on weekdays lei. So no need take leave issit?
Anyone did sound proofing for your MZ3?�
�
If so, which part of the car to soundproof to eliminate the wind noise problem?�
�
so far i quite like the sound in the mz3, so much so i decided to turn off the radio and hear the engine... :S
Edited by Runforyourlife, 11 August 2016 - 04:03 PM.
1 & 5K is visual inspection servicing only, no mechanical involve, that's why can do at night! I doubt 10k servicing can do at night as they told me to leave the car ONE whole day for servicing! As for the tyre rumbling, engine roar, istop idle vibration...etc, already gotten use to it liao! If there's no noises now then it would feel strange to me...lolNothing to be annoyed about if you ain't playing punk.
Its funny you said you "declare on the form". And the next thing you said "declare by telling SE". Your uncertain pitch made it seem like you're withholding info/evidence thats all :s
Hmm i have a qn. 10k servicing coming up in a couple of months. They told me can do night one on weekdays lei. So no need take leave issit?
so far i quite like the sound in the mz3, so much so i decided to turn off the radio and hear the engine... :S
Yah, seems like their servicing capacity cannot handle liao! I also booked for servicing after 25th Aug & mileage is way past service indicator...sianzCalled to book 20K servicing yesterday and earliest available slot is 25 August!!!
Reminds me of the support of my previous German ride 3 years ago....
By the way, just to check, service intervals are at 10K right?
My last servicing was done at 11,649km. Which means next servicing should be 21,649km.
However, Odo now reads 22089, service interval setting has 1174km remaining. ie 23,263km before maintenance light will come on.
I wonder why they set extra Km for interval. Any similar experiences?
I strongly believe AIG wants your business, that's why they will always take in your application first with quote to you assuming your NCD is correct as there is a insurance rebate tied to the car price for taking up AIG! After quoted premium is paid, the car will be insured & locked in with AIG afterwhich they'll go thru the insurance system link records to check your actual NCD, if no claim before then the quote remains but if there's NCD discrepencies then they have the right to ask for premium top up accordingly! Correct me if I am wrong, any insurance bros here can help?what happened to the premium u earlier paid. Did they pro-rate and return.
I am enjoying my ride and i intend to enjoy it while not paying a single cent more unless i can help it. I scolded the AIG rep when he called me last friday, he sounded like he understand and said he will discuss with the AIG side. I wouldnt have been so angry if they had not lied i didnt declare in the first place.
Edited by CES_Klass, 12 August 2016 - 08:23 AM.
My point is that it is not right to set the interval higher than what it should be. It just means alot on the ethics. It is ok if they shedule it later upon calling but definitely not right to add KMs on the intervals behind our backs, just to allay their problem.�
Just my thought.
When Toyota is the car Singaporean crazy over about, they expand their service centre. Even into Petrol Kiosk. But for Mazda, only 2 places to go. But their volume increase is like crazy. Now every 10 cars, got 1 is mazda. Like that sure cannot handle.
�
But don't worry, over 1k to 2k won't kill the car. It will just make you crazy cause you are thinking my car going to spoil cause oil overdue by 1k Km already.
Any of you bros using the Papago 360 in-car camera given by Mazda?
�
My front camera is faulty after only 6 months.... wonder if its still under warranty.�
Should have warranty from tong lee weeAny of you bros using the Papago 360 in-car camera given by Mazda?
My front camera is faulty after only 6 months.... wonder if its still under warranty.
Very good explanation. I think there is one more variation to that dual clutch transmission right? as it generally seen in VW.its pretty simple, nothing to get confused about. to break it down to the bare basics, there are two main camps in auto transmission:
1) conventional(planetary) auto transmission where its very similar to manual transmission, e.g. a fixed number of gears(steps), whereby the selection of gears are chosen by the ecu based on a magnitude of factors such as speed, load, accelerator depression etc. the selected gear transmit the engine power from the engine flywheel to the drive shaft(wheels) via the torque converter, which is the equivalent of a clutch but instead of two friction plates coming into contact with each other to transmit power, the torque converter uses two plates with opposing vanes(turbines) filled with oil as a power transfer medium. one plate connected to the auto transmission spins as the engine turns, causing the oil to rotate inside the round housing and this oil will in turn push against the vanes of the second plate to rotate and turn the drive shaft. when you stop at the traffic junction and step on the brakes, the first plate is still turning(idle engine) and moving all the oil around but the second plate is stationary as the brakes prevents the drive shaft from turning.
there are many variants of the conventional auto trans with different names given to their system to try and set themselves apart but the general working principle is the same.
2) continuous variable transmission(CVT) can be viewed as two cones(one input and one output) with a belt connecting them. as the belt moves along the axis of the two cones, e.g from smaller circumference to bigger, the "gearing" ratio changes so the torque amplification and turning speed is changed depending on the location of the belts along the cones. the ecu decides where the belts should be for optimum "gearing" ratio. as oppose to planetary trans, cvt has no "steps" so drivers will not feel the lost in power between each gears like the conventional transmission. cvt transmissions are generally more efficient as they can better keep the engine rpm within the engine's optimum power band due the "infinite" gears they provide, they are also viewed by many driving enthusiast as lacking in sportiness and fun as there is no familiar jerk of a punchy up shift during s spirited drive.
Very good explanation. I think there is one more variation to that dual clutch transmission right? as it generally seen in VW.
�
All these variations by different makes are variations of the conventional auto transmission whereby the basic working principle is still based on a fixed number of different ratio gears being driven by the flywheel to transmit toque to the drive shaft(wheels). The dual-clutch transmission(DCT) and its cousin the direct-shift gear(DSG) which the Volkswagen Group first use in a production model(2003 golf) is essentially a transmission whereby the driven shaft is split two shaft with one shaft for even and the other for odd gears so the next gear is always on standby and this allows for a faster shift between gears. Other variants such as tiptronic, steptronic etc by different car makes are all still based on the basic working principles mentioned above. As technology advances, more gears are added, ECU with better computing power can make better and faster gear selection but for the normal bread and butter cars, i would think we are almost at a plateau in terms of transmission advancement with no great leap in the near future. in fact i believe with the slow but inevitable rise of electric cars, automotive transmissions will see a decline as electric driven cars do not have to use transmission as electric motors can directly drive the wheels.
Just wondering if any of you bought mazda from PI? How about the servicing? Where and how PI arrange servicing?
�
the only PI i know that is bringing in mazda is garage r: http://www.sgcarmart...p?CarCode=11877
�
and the last time checked, the spec that they are bring in is rather weird: no sun roof, no active display, no fog lamps, fabric and manual seats, but has led/hid headlamps. pricing wise from what i understand, they are matching trans eurokars pricing.
�
as garage r has a good reputation among the GTR and mit evo communities with a good track record of providing performance mods, i would have little doubt that they will throw in a good servicing package for cars bought from them.
Thanks for the infoAll these variations by different makes are variations of the conventional auto transmission whereby the basic working principle is still based on a fixed number of different ratio gears being driven by the flywheel to transmit toque to the drive shaft(wheels). The dual-clutch transmission(DCT) and its cousin the direct-shift gear(DSG) which the Volkswagen Group first use in a production model(2003 golf) is essentially a transmission whereby the driven shaft is split two shaft with one shaft for even and the other for odd gears so the next gear is always on standby and this allows for a faster shift between gears. Other variants such as tiptronic, steptronic etc by different car makes are all still based on the basic working principles mentioned above. As technology advances, more gears are added, ECU with better computing power can make better and faster gear selection but for the normal bread and butter cars, i would think we are almost at a plateau in terms of transmission advancement with no great leap in the near future. in fact i believe with the slow but inevitable rise of electric cars, automotive transmissions will see a decline as electric driven cars do not have to use transmission as electric motors can directly drive the wheels.
Bro still have warrant . Mine also less than 6 mth and breakdown. Just last mth which is the 8th mth, I go servicing & tell them, TEK changed a new camera for meAny of you bros using the Papago 360 in-car camera given by Mazda?
My front camera is faulty after only 6 months.... wonder if its still under warranty.
the only PI i know that is bringing in mazda is garage r: http://www.sgcarmart...p?CarCode=11877
�
and the last time checked, the spec that they are bring in is rather weird: no sun roof, no active display, no fog lamps, fabric and manual seats, but has led/hid headlamps. pricing wise from what i understand, they are matching trans eurokars pricing.
�
as garage r has a good reputation among the GTR and mit evo communities with a good track record of providing performance mods, i would have little doubt that they will throw in a good servicing package for cars bought from them.
�
To be honest, sunroof is useless, fog lamps are useless, auto seats are useless. Dont even know why they include it.�
�
I never even use any of the feature other than the radio.�
To be honest, sunroof is useless, fog lamps are useless, auto seats are useless. Dont even know why they include it.�
�
I never even use any of the feature other than the radio.�
�
a second hand mazda 3 will do well for u, don't need brand new one.
�
heck, just a van also can.
�
I'm giving you a real world scenario, of all the cars that I've owned and driven. From Mazda 3 to C Class, they all comes with sunroof and Singapore is so damn hot to even utilise these feature at night. Number of times i open it for all of them is less than 3. Example in Australia I can open the sunroof while driving in the winter, so i dont have to wind down window or turn on the AC.�
�
For fog lamp, in Australia I use it very often in the early morning when I go fishing/ hiking etc. But in Singapore? All these feature just jack up the OMV and increased the overall price of the car only.�
�
In future, wont be getting a Van. Now Mustang in Singapore already. Just hoping RHD Ford 150 Raptor Double Cab will reach Singapore.�
I'm giving you a real world scenario, of all the cars that I've owned and driven. From Mazda 3 to C Class, they all comes with sunroof and Singapore is so damn hot to even utilise these feature at night. Number of times i open it for all of them is less than 3. Example in Australia I can open the sunroof while driving in the winter, so i dont have to wind down window or turn on the AC.�
�
For fog lamp, in Australia I use it very often in the early morning when I go fishing/ hiking etc. But in Singapore? All these feature just jack up the OMV and increased the overall price of the car only.�
�
In future, wont be getting a Van. Now Mustang in Singapore already. Just hoping RHD Ford 150 Raptor Double Cab will reach Singapore.�
�
I actually use my sunroof to let the hot air out every day after work since my car is parked in an open air carpark. Works like a charm. I agree that fog lamps aren't that useful in Singapore. The electric seats are good to have as I change my seating position depending on my level of fatigue for the day. The only downside is that bringing it to a fully reclined position for a rest takes a while. haha
�
Does the PI engine have the same specs? Especially with regards to compression ratio.
�
Besides, if the price of the PI model is similar to the agent's, it means you will be paying more for less when it comes to frills such as sunroof etc.?
I'm giving you a real world scenario, of all the cars that I've owned and driven. From Mazda 3 to C Class, they all comes with sunroof and Singapore is so damn hot to even utilise these feature at night. Number of times i open it for all of them is less than 3. Example in Australia I can open the sunroof while driving in the winter, so i dont have to wind down window or turn on the AC.�
�
For fog lamp, in Australia I use it very often in the early morning when I go fishing/ hiking etc. But in Singapore? All these feature just jack up the OMV and increased the overall price of the car only.�
�
In future, wont be getting a Van. Now Mustang in Singapore already. Just hoping RHD Ford 150 Raptor Double Cab will reach Singapore.�
�
�
Some say blind spot mirror is just another stupid feature to turn off, but others say it prevented an accident for them. Sunroof some say can let out heat after a hot day, others say it reduces headroom and is seldom usable. End of the day, features are highly subjective and depends on the target market.�
Fog lamp is only useful during annual haze... Otherwise it is just a spare bulb holder. But rear fog lamps are irritating when inconsiderate or simply sotong people leave them on without any purpose. Good that TEK decided to omit rear fog lamps.
�
The problem with PI is the lack of support when it comes to warranty and recalls etc. Skyactiv technology quite new, there might be failures, updates or recalls.... with PI you can forget about it, like what happened to the recent Vezel recall.
does ur i stop stopped working?Question, I change my car battery, and realise tat it is a normal one, instead of the i-stop battery... Is there any side effects to the car, eg, breakdown, if I dun use the special one ? Please advise...
if it stopped working i want to change to a normal batt too!!!!
Same here�
does ur i stop stopped working?
if it stopped working i want to change to a normal batt too!!!!
�
To be honest, sunroof is useless, fog lamps are useless, auto seats are useless. Dont even know why they include it.�
�
I never even use any of the feature other than the radio.�
�
sunroof is pointless besides the view, sure, fog lamps, again questionable use, but auto-seats?
With more than one driver in different positions or sometimes just adjusting your seats for something like reclining to relax in the car, or maybe even because you dropped something under your seat, it's really great to get back your exact position.
Or maybe I'm just sensitive to minor differences in seat position...
Some say blind spot mirror is just another stupid feature to turn off, but others say it prevented an accident for them. Sunroof some say can let out heat after a hot day, others say it reduces headroom and is seldom usable. End of the day, features are highly subjective and depends on the target market.�
�Fog lamp is only useful during annual haze... Otherwise it is just a spare bulb holder. But rear fog lamps are irritating when inconsiderate or simply sotong people leave them on without any purpose. Good that TEK decided to omit rear fog lamps.
�
I'm a user and appreciative of blind spot monitoring.
�
Rear foglamps, every now and then, see taxis or other cars with them on, really annoying. But having one of your own means you can flash back at people high beaming you for no reason.
I never use I-stop at the first place... I always off it.. Find it irritating...Same here
Same here.
I never use I-stop at the first place... I always off it.. Find it irritating...
�
Just to share, I had the clicking sound for the first time today since driving the mz3 for 7-8 months. Sound happens when I'm getting off the throttle at lower speeds mostly.The clicking sound comes from the electro-mechanical relay switch (I'm not 100% sure, but a relay switch sounds exactly just like that). You guys can read up the following pdf below for more info. My guess is that something must be triggering the on-off operation. The main culprit might be (my own guess) i-eloop (triggered by acceleration/deceleration) or auto headlight/light dimming/DRL (triggered by changes in brightness - however if you hear the clicking sound at night, most probably it is not due to this).
The next time the sound happen again, everyone please help to pay attention to what could be the trigger! I'm also pretty puzzled and wanted to see what exactly is the cause but the clicking sound has not surfaced recently... or maybe my radio is too loud? haha.
http://www.autoshop1...forms/hweb2.pdf
The only difference was when starting the car, I pressed the ignition button before depressing the brake. Realising the mistake, I depress the brake and press the ignition again with the amber backlight still on (i.e. electronics were on).
The sound went away on subsequent starts when I depress brake before pushing ignition button in the correct sequence.
Edited by Zcold, 20 August 2016 - 10:03 PM.
Is it usually similar to civic where the wait time from order to getting the car can be about 6 months?
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét