mycarforum: 2014 Mazda 3 part 120

any bros here know where to get this in bangkok?

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https://www.mazda.co...ng/trunk-liner/

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saw some people in this thread got the boot tray from bangkok.

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Thanks!

clicking sound u all meant smth like "spark" sound issit? mine like usually inside the aircon area :s cant be bothered lol

I'm giving you a real world scenario, of all the cars that I've owned and driven. From Mazda 3 to C Class, they all comes with sunroof and Singapore is so damn hot to even utilise these feature at night. Number of times i open it for all of them is less than 3. Example in Australia I can open the sunroof while driving in the winter, so i dont have to wind down window or turn on the AC.�

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For fog lamp, in Australia I use it very often in the early morning when I go fishing/ hiking etc. But in Singapore? All these feature just jack up the OMV and increased the overall price of the car only.�

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In future, wont be getting a Van. Now Mustang in Singapore already. Just hoping RHD Ford 150 Raptor Double Cab will reach Singapore.�

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I guess i should have made my point more obvious when i said garage r's pricing matches trans eurocars. I meant to say their pricing is similar to ad's deluxe spec but they have taken away quite a few "deluxe" items, including the sun roof which is included in the standard models. the reason why they omitted these items is obviously to import the car in with lower omv and hence lesser tax, but the savings are not being transferred to the car buyer. now from the business point of view, i can try to pull away customer from ad because i can offer a lower spec car at a cheaper price. wouldn't that make more sense? instead of offering a lower spec car at a price the competitor is offering. they have not added value to their proposition.

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now with regards to what is deemed necessary in the car? this is very subjective and there is no right or wrong, but let me share my logic:

if i can offer you sun roof with no extra cost, will you want it? would i mind that my seats are electric even if i don't adjust them? these are extras i won't mind having, if they are free add-ons, but for 6k more? let me try to justify, 6k/10yrs/12mth=$50 a month more. some will not feel this cost is justified but to me this $50 per month is justified as they make me feel that the car is more "complete", meaning its by no means a luxury car, but its also not a bare-boned car putting on a classy elegant body and respectable badge. And also food for thought: many things which we once thought to be unnecessary luxuries only found in higher end cars that push up its pricing is now standard equipment such as electric windows.

sunroof is pointless besides the view, sure, fog lamps, again questionable use, but auto-seats?

With more than one driver in different positions or sometimes just adjusting your seats for something like reclining to relax in the car, or maybe even because you dropped something under your seat, it's really great to get back your exact position.

Or maybe I'm just sensitive to minor differences in seat position...

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Auto seats kinda pointless without the memory function, apart from being slightly more precise. But at least you can now adjust seat distance while braking, without suddenly to the front...

Anyone knows what's the difference between AC and AC Econ? Tried googling online but it seems to be a function for seasonal countries. Anyone able to share some thoughts?

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good question. i tried to find the answer online too but i cannot the find any conclusive answers. i am reading through the whole service/repair manual(10299 pages in pdf!!) to get the answer but have not touched on the air con system yet. i shall offer my guess:

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conventional air con system in cars adjust the temperature by mixing in warm air together with the cold air from the condenser to achieve the set temperature. so lets say for example, you set your target temperature in the cabin as 24degC. the cabin tempt sensor sense that the current tempt is 30 degC and starts the air con compressor can lets in 100% of the cold air passing through the condenser into the cabin. the cabin starts to cool, until it reaches 24degC, the sensor tells the air tempt controller that the target tempt has reached, and now the controller opens a vent after the condenser to mix in warm air( this warm air is heated by the engine coolant heat ex changer plate) and this mixture of warm and cold air goes out the air con vent into the cabin at about 24degC. the tempt controller controls the amount of warm/cold air mixtures by throttling the warm air outlet flap. as you can see from this operation, even if you set the tempt at 28degC, you are still wasting energy as the compressor is still running just that your cold air is mixed with warm air to give you 28 degC.

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Some people think that by setting a higher tempt, they are saving energy as the compressor will not be running as much, thats a misconception.� 18degC and 30 DegC is all the same as long as you press that AC button.

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for the econ mode, i believe that the system now works more like our home air con unit whereby the compressor is controlled by the thermostat(as set by the air con remote) and when the set temperature is reached, the compressor stops working and the blower is just blowing air through the condenser fins without actually cooling it until the temperature is high enough to trigger the compressor on again. this method of cooling is more energy efficient but it is not as accurate in keeping the exact temperature as the first method as there will always be a lag and if you have the air vent blowing at you, you will feel the air going cold and not cold intermittently as the compressor kicks in and cuts off.�

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so which do you prefer?� �

Question, I change my car battery, and realise tat it is a normal one, instead of the i-stop battery... Is there any side effects to the car, eg, breakdown, if I dun use the special one ? Please advise...

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I have been studying the service and repair manual and now understand quite a fair bit about how the charging and i-eloop system works. those interested and start reading from page 997 onwards from the online manual if you do a google search. in order not to bore everybody down with too many technical details, i would conclude that using normal batteries maintenance free battery will not adversely affect the operation of the car nor its electronics, unlike how mazda would want you to think otherwise. this is especially true if you do not use your i-stop function. the only reason they would want you to think you need to use their "special" battery is because of the regular start-stop of the engine that pulls a lot of amps from the battery. but wait, isn't that what the capacitor on the i-eloop is for? the capacitor stores power during regenerative braking and uses the power to power the car's electrical needs as well as starting the car again. the battery in these cases rarely have to do much, and even if it has to, its not heavily loaded. and for those who don't use i-stop like me(i permanently disable it as it causes more wear in the engine), i would believe after changing to normal battery when you do have to replace it, you could get a longer life span out from your battery as most of the electrical load during a normal drive is taken by the capacitor. by the way, the system also uses a DC-DC converter that is found under the passenger seat and takes up the space which can be use to mount an audio amplifier. this DC-DC convertor cannot be removed as it is need to convert the 25V power from regenerative braking and convert it to 12v for the car to use. all the system is connected in series from battery so even if capacitor is flat, the system just uses power from the battery like a normal system.

Anyone has ideas when the facelift is gna hit the sg showroom for a pre order?

Is it usually similar to civic where the wait time from order to getting the car can be about 6 months?

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when i checked with my se from ubi before i purchased the car, she told me facelift will only be released in sg market next year. whether or not that is sales talk to get me to buy the current version so she can get her sales is anybody's guess but i think the earliest is dec this year. it is a pity though, although all the cosmetic changes are inconsequential, the g-vectoring technology will be welcomed to give added corning confidence and the "it-should-have-been-added-in-the-first-place" function of memory seat to compliment the electric seats finally be standard feature. not sure if the local version will come with the electric parking brake which i think is good to have as it makes space for a much needed bigger storage area. i am still quite upset that the doors only have a puny bottle holder for storage.

Auto seats kinda pointless without the memory function, apart from being slightly more precise. But at least you can now adjust seat distance while braking, without suddenly to the front...

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since the 2017 facelift version will have this function, my bet is that by next year, we should be able to get a retrofit oem module kit to add to our existing unit. most probably it will not cost more then $200 if you know where to look. i am waiting for my delivery of OEM paddle shifters which i bought for only SGD$130. self installation is possible and should only take about half an hour. for those interested:

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https://world.taobao...0.NEiCiq#detail

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https://world.taobao...0.NEiCiq#detail

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installation video on youtube:

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since the 2017 facelift version will have this function, my bet is that by next year, we should be able to get a retrofit oem module kit to add to our existing unit. most probably it will not cost more then $200 if you know where to look. i am waiting for my delivery of OEM paddle shifters which i bought for only SGD$130. self installation is possible and should only take about half an hour. for those interested:

https://world.taobao...0.NEiCiq#detail

or

https://world.taobao...0.NEiCiq#detail

installation video on youtube:

Thanks for sharing bro & hope to see your paddle shift mod soon!

Anyone sent in this car for servicing this morning? (24th August) The service bay was super packed as usual..can't imagine how long the wait will be when my 10k servicing is due...

I have been studying the service and repair manual and now understand quite a fair bit about how the charging and i-eloop system works. those interested and start reading from page 997 onwards from the online manual if you do a google search. in order not to bore everybody down with too many technical details, i would conclude that using normal batteries maintenance free battery will not adversely affect the operation of the car nor its electronics, unlike how mazda would want you to think otherwise. this is especially true if you do not use your i-stop function. the only reason they would want you to think you need to use their "special" battery is because of the regular start-stop of the engine that pulls a lot of amps from the battery. but wait, isn't that what the capacitor on the i-eloop is for? the capacitor stores power during regenerative braking and uses the power to power the car's electrical needs as well as starting the car again. the battery in these cases rarely have to do much, and even if it has to, its not heavily loaded. and for those who don't use i-stop like me(i permanently disable it as it causes more wear in the engine), i would believe after changing to normal battery when you do have to replace it, you could get a longer life span out from your battery as most of the electrical load during a normal drive is taken by the capacitor. by the way, the system also uses a DC-DC converter that is found under the passenger seat and takes up the space which can be use to mount an audio amplifier. this DC-DC convertor cannot be removed as it is need to convert the 25V power from regenerative braking and convert it to 12v for the car to use. all the system is connected in series from battery so even if capacitor is flat, the system just uses power from the battery like a normal system.

I assume your normal battery means, other brand of battery with start stop function capable. Recently pals ride encounter a master warning light. As per online research and TEK findings, it's due to battery fault which Causes the warning light to illum. If put in a non standard battery( non start stop), wondering the warning light will illum anot or might need to jumper the fuse

good question. i tried to find the answer online too but i cannot the find any conclusive answers. i am reading through the whole service/repair manual(10299 pages in pdf!!) to get the answer but have not touched on the air con system yet. i shall offer my guess:

conventional air con system in cars adjust the temperature by mixing in warm air together with the cold air from the condenser to achieve the set temperature. so lets say for example, you set your target temperature in the cabin as 24degC. the cabin tempt sensor sense that the current tempt is 30 degC and starts the air con compressor can lets in 100% of the cold air passing through the condenser into the cabin. the cabin starts to cool, until it reaches 24degC, the sensor tells the air tempt controller that the target tempt has reached, and now the controller opens a vent after the condenser to mix in warm air( this warm air is heated by the engine coolant heat ex changer plate) and this mixture of warm and cold air goes out the air con vent into the cabin at about 24degC. the tempt controller controls the amount of warm/cold air mixtures by throttling the warm air outlet flap. as you can see from this operation, even if you set the tempt at 28degC, you are still wasting energy as the compressor is still running just that your cold air is mixed with warm air to give you 28 degC.

Some people think that by setting a higher tempt, they are saving energy as the compressor will not be running as much, thats a misconception. 18degC and 30 DegC is all the same as long as you press that AC button.

for the econ mode, i believe that the system now works more like our home air con unit whereby the compressor is controlled by the thermostat(as set by the air con remote) and when the set temperature is reached, the compressor stops working and the blower is just blowing air through the condenser fins without actually cooling it until the temperature is high enough to trigger the compressor on again. this method of cooling is more energy efficient but it is not as accurate in keeping the exact temperature as the first method as there will always be a lag and if you have the air vent blowing at you, you will feel the air going cold and not cold intermittently as the compressor kicks in and cuts off.

so which do you prefer?

Thanks bro for the detailed explanation. Weirdly somehow I feel it's colder when it's on Eco mode. Lol.

Anyone have the papago camera that comes when car purchased?

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It has hung, then went dead. but not exactly dead; it still makes a ticking sound but blank screen.

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even i reset , plug out power, put back - the sound will still come back.

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pls assist - what should I do?

Anyone know where is a good workshop to do leather repair job on the dashboard? Got a small pencil tip size hole on it. Collected my car from mazda servicing and found it. I can't wait for them to rectify for me. Abit OCD when it comes to interior.

Hi.

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Knock my left side rear portion into a kerb. Own damage.

Outside charges me $500 for the repair, while Mazda is charging me $2.6k to change the panel.

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I'm wondering if it's worth claiming insurance for this.

1. NCD will remain as 0% for how many years?

2. How much is the estimated increase in future premium for claiming insurance?

Hi.

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Knock my left side rear portion into a kerb. Own damage.

Outside charges me $500 for the repair, while Mazda is charging me $2.6k to change the panel.

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I'm wondering if it's worth claiming insurance for this.

1. NCD will remain as 0% for how many years?

2. How much is the estimated increase in future premium for claiming insurance?

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please just go get the repair done at outside workshop, get a few more quotes to make sure you are getting the cheapest quote. there is no financial gains for you to go through insurance as the loading will be for the next 3 years and it is likely you will end up paying more in the next 3 insurance premium plus loading then the $500 you will pay for now. just make sure when you are getting workshop quotes that you let them know it is not an insurance claim and have no intention of claiming, because a couple hundred dollars worth of panel beating and respray can suddenly turn into a few thousand dollars bumper replacement when insurance claim is involved. please do not contribute to the reason why everybody's insurance premium increase yearly.�

Anyone sent in this car for servicing this morning? (24th August) The service bay was super packed as usual..can't imagine how long the wait will be when my 10k servicing is due...

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I am a new Mazda owner. I have been very disappointed about TEK's servicing so far. Their service bay is super packed everyday. There is not even enough parking lots when you send your car there. Booking for servicing is always at least 2 weeks later. They simply cannot cope with their increase in sales. All of us should escalate this issue to pressure them to increase their service capacity asap.
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The main reason I bought a Mazda was because the Mazda 3's FC on paper is super impressive at 5.8L/100km. That works out to about 17km/L. However, my new Mazda 3 bought in Apr this year is only getting about 12.5km/L (about 50:50 hwy vs city driving). How can the paper claim be so different from actual?

The main reason I bought a Mazda was because the Mazda 3's FC on paper is super impressive at 5.8L/100km. That works out to about 17km/L. However, my new Mazda 3 bought in Apr this year is only getting about 12.5km/L (about 50:50 hwy vs city driving). How can the paper claim be so different from actual?

The paper figure is always the ideal FC. It is probably based on 100% highway driving and a bit of exaggeration.

It's all down to individual driving style. My car has been at 6.8L/100km for almost a year now. I know a guy from our club who has done 4.xL/100km for one particular refill when he tried to challenge the paper FC figure.

I am a new Mazda owner. I have been very disappointed about TEK's servicing so far. Their service bay is super packed everyday. There is not even enough parking lots when you send your car there. Booking for servicing is always at least 2 weeks later. They simply cannot cope with their increase in sales. All of us should escalate this issue to pressure them to increase their service capacity asap.

They are now open for after office hour servicing.

The paper figure is always the ideal FC. It is probably based on 100% highway driving and a bit of exaggeration.

It's all down to individual driving style. My car has been at 6.8L/100km for almost a year now. I know a guy from our club who has done 4.xL/100km for one particular refill when he tried to challenge the paper FC figure.
They are now open for after office hour servicing.

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I know paper figure is always the ideal FC. But there is a fine line between "exaggeration" and cheating! 6.8L/100km may be acceptable to me. But I am getting 8L/100km! What kind of driving style on Singapore roads can cause so much difference? BTW, I am already using both i-Stop and i-eLoop features, both of which are supposed to save fuel, right? I heard after changing to synthetic oil, the FC will improve. Is it true?

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Opening after office hour is not enough if the wait time to make a service appointment is still > 2 weeks!
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Edited by star168, 28 August 2016 - 06:16 PM.

I know paper figure is always the ideal FC. But there is a fine line between "exaggeration" and cheating! 6.8L/100km may be acceptable to me. But I am getting 8L/100km! What kind of driving style on Singapore roads can cause so much difference? BTW, I am already using both i-Stop and i-eLoop features, both of which are supposed to save fuel, right? I heard after changing to synthetic oil, the FC will improve. Is it true?

Opening after office hour is not enough if the wait time to make a service appointment is still > 2 weeks!

8L/100km is quite normal for 1.5L. Many Mz3 owners have FC around this ballpark with predominant city driving.

They have already loaded the car with synthetic oil from 0 km.

I know paper figure is always the ideal FC. But there is a fine line between "exaggeration" and cheating! 6.8L/100km may be acceptable to me. But I am getting 8L/100km! What kind of driving style on Singapore roads can cause so much difference? BTW, I am already using both i-Stop and i-eLoop features, both of which are supposed to save fuel, right? I heard after changing to synthetic oil, the FC will improve. Is it true?

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Opening after office hour is not enough if the wait time to make a service appointment is still > 2 weeks!
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i-Stop (or any start-stop) feature will improve FC if you wait long a traffic lights. �It will not improve FC (but may worsen) if you are in crawling traffic. �From what I read, you need about 5-8 seconds of engine cut-off time to equalize the extra fuel to restart engine.

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What FC you get also depends on your trip conditions (distant, avg speed). �I am driving an A3 and my FC can vary from a great 25km/l (smooth hw traffic) to 12km/l (crawling traffic jam). �So don't be too concern about other's people FC.

anybody interested in a relatively new set of stock rims and tires? i am changing my rims so if anybody's interested to renew their scuffed and worn out rims/tired can have mine. my ride has less then 2k milage, rims and tires still in superb condition. you can have them for $200 and i don't need your old rims and rims, you can try trade in your old rims/tires for a shop credit of maybe $100/$50 dollars to offset your future tire purchase or just keep them as spare.�

I know paper figure is always the ideal FC. But there is a fine line between "exaggeration" and cheating! 6.8L/100km may be acceptable to me. But I am getting 8L/100km! What kind of driving style on Singapore roads can cause so much difference? BTW, I am already using both i-Stop and i-eLoop features, both of which are supposed to save fuel, right? I heard after changing to synthetic oil, the FC will improve. Is it true?

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Opening after office hour is not enough if the wait time to make a service appointment is still > 2 weeks!
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Did you check your tyre pressure? Did you drive off w/o fully releasing your handbrake? Is your gear in the correct D mode? Are you heavy footed? Or do you always travel around with full load? My avg FC is about 6.9 to 7.1L/km (about 50:50 highway/city driving, my rpm usually only around 2k-2.5k when picking up from stationary at traffic light, occasionally hit 3k-4k max)... I tried before 100% highway cruising from PIE to CTE to TPE FC can hit as low as 4.0L/km...

8L/100km is quite normal for 1.5L. Many Mz3 owners have FC around this ballpark with predominant city driving.

They have already loaded the car with synthetic oil from 0 km.

Thats true. My ride avg 12.5 to 13.5km/l most times. Occasionally it can clock 13.5 to 14.5km/l. I used syn oil n pumped premium. 50/50 highway/town.
Overall, the car is heavy and that mileage is expected. Sure beat my previous ride Tucson 2.0...so i m ok.

Did you check your tyre pressure? Did you drive off w/o fully releasing your handbrake? Is your gear in the correct D mode? Are you heavy footed? Or do you always travel around with full load? My avg FC is about 6.9 to 7.1L/km (about 50:50 highway/city driving, my rpm usually only around 2k-2.5k when picking up from stationary at traffic light, occasionally hit 3k-4k max)... I tried before 100% highway cruising from PIE to CTE to TPE FC can hit as low as 4.0L/km...

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Thanks for your response. For tyre pressure, I follow the recommendation written on the door which is 250PSI, I think. And I check and top up the pressure once a month. Handbrake should not be the issue as it should show warning light on the dashboard which I always check. Heavy footed...may be...but I drove like that on my previous Toyota also. My point is Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing. BTW, I don't trust the FC reading on the dashboard. My FC reading is based on the odo reading and the amount of petrol I actually pumped.
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Thats true. My ride avg 12.5 to 13.5km/l most times. Occasionally it can clock 13.5 to 14.5km/l. I used syn oil n pumped premium. 50/50 highway/town.
Overall, the car is heavy and that mileage is expected. Sure beat my previous ride Tucson 2.0...so i m ok.

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Thanks for your input. Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing.
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8L/100km is quite normal for 1.5L. Many Mz3 owners have FC around this ballpark with predominant city driving.

They have already loaded the car with synthetic oil from 0 km.

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Thanks for your response. My concern is Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing.
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my mileage for Mazda 3 1.5L Sedan; 12,500 km

FC reading according to dashboard is 6.4 L to 6.5L

I'm not heavy footed, and usually try to coast instead of breaking or accelerating; apart from traffic conditions, driving techniques matters a lot

Thanks for your response. For tyre pressure, I follow the recommendation written on the door which is 250PSI, I think. And I check and top up the pressure once a month. Handbrake should not be the issue as it should show warning light on the dashboard which I always check. Heavy footed...may be...but I drove like that on my previous Toyota also. My point is Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing. BTW, I don't trust the FC reading on the dashboard. My FC reading is based on the odo reading and the amount of petrol I actually pumped.
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Thanks for your input. Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing.
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Thanks for your response. My concern is Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing.
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how much your Rev your car? For me i keep my rev between 2000rpm to 2500 rpm, anything more than that is wasting fuel..

I can achieve 15.5km/l -16km/l before changing oil

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I achieved 14km/l on average. I find that the fuel management computer is quite accurate, difference between the actual and value shown are very close.

how much your Rev your car? For me i keep my rev between 2000rpm to 2500 rpm, anything more than that is wasting fuel..

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Most of the time I keep to within 2000-2500rpm too but when picking up speed or going up flyover, sometimes need to go above 3000rpm.
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How do you guys find the power output from this car? Personally, I find that this car is kind of lethargic�at 2k to 2.5k rpm. Need to push to 3k for comfortable power output. As for consumption, it range between 6.4L/100 to around 7.8L/100, depending on the ratio of exp vs city. Not exactly fantastic consumption as advertise. I guess their consumption is based on feather foot and travel less than 80km/h. Find this car having difficulties going up to 90km/h(Not unachievable), but like need to step a bit more and power like not enough to keep it there. Don't know how to describe the lack of power. Other than these, this car is not bad.

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By the way, does you guys car when wind up window, when the glass hit the top of the window frame, it has "Tok" sound. Or is it "jupe(rubber stopping it)" sound?

Bro. Where did u get this and how much?

I achieved 14km/l on average. I find that the fuel management computer is quite accurate, difference between the actual and value shown are very close.

Yes, couldn't agree more. Some of us from earlier batch have done the comparison.

How do you guys find the power output from this car? Personally, I find that this car is kind of lethargic at 2k to 2.5k rpm. Need to push to 3k for comfortable power output. As for consumption, it range between 6.4L/100 to around 7.8L/100, depending on the ratio of exp vs city. Not exactly fantastic consumption as advertise. I guess their consumption is based on feather foot and travel less than 80km/h. Find this car having difficulties going up to 90km/h(Not unachievable), but like need to step a bit more and power like not enough to keep it there. Don't know how to describe the lack of power. Other than these, this car is not bad.

By the way, does you guys car when wind up window, when the glass hit the top of the window frame, it has "Tok" sound. Or is it "jupe(rubber stopping it)" sound?

Both should be there if you use the auto-window? "Jupe" sound is when the glass pane hit the top of the window's rubber seal."Tok" sound should come from the door panel, when the crank is disengaged.

Yes, couldn't agree more. Some of us from earlier batch have done the comparison.
Both should be there if you use the auto-window? "Jupe" sound is when the glass pane hit the top of the window's rubber seal."Tok" sound should come from the door panel, when the crank is disengaged.

I'm sure the "tok" sound is not from the door panel, but from the window which hit the frame of the door after it fully closed. I find the sound quite annoying, cause like not perfectly designed, end up with the tok tok sound.

for those bros lamenting about the poor f/c and power of their ride, if i may offer my opinion as a marine engineer who works with 3 storey high diesel engines in excess of 20k hp on a daily basis. Many owners don't realize the technical marvel of the skyactiv-g engine sitting under the hood. the level of engineering that goes into the skyactiv engine is very impressive to those who understand the challenges of designing a good engine. with the highest compression ratio of 14 to 1, which is the world's first for a mass produced car,while the average cars out there typically have a compression ratio of 10:1 up to 12:1 max. So what is the big deal about the compression ratio? The higher the ratio, the more efficient the engine which equates to more power vs same displacement and the max toque is achieved nearer to mid rpm. the high compression is achieved by a�4-2-1 exhaust system, cavity pistons, multihole injectors among other�engineering�efforts.�

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Ok, so it is technically well engineered, but so what? you still feel the car is�sluggish�so all this don't translate to real world benefits?

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take a look at this torque curve then you will understand what is the crux of your grievance:

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Torque-curve-of-SLYACTIV-G-1.5-engine-52

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Max torque comes in at just after 3k rpm and is steady until just after 4.5k rpm. and notice the sharp the increase in torque just after 2.5k rpm? what this means is, if you keep your rpm below 2.5k and feel the car is sluggish, the reason is because the engine is the happiest between 3k-4.5k rpm. it loves to be revved in that range. this is the personality of the engine and car, which your sales person probably failed to mention to you before you bought the car, that this is no altis or vezel. �now that you have committed to the car and it would most probably be with you for quite a while, why don't you try not to change its characteristic, instead, try to change your driving style gradually and let it stay in its happy rev range and i am sure, you will grow to appreciate and even be rewarded by the pleasure of driving the car on how it was designed to be driven.

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won't that extra bit of extra fuel cost be offset by enjoying your 100k investment more? mazda decided to market the mz3 by highlighting its F/C numbers obtained by adding nonsense such as the I-stop/I-Eloop system instead of highlighting the technical achievement of the skyactiv tecnology(engine+gearbox+chasis) because the mass market appeal is still on F/C number and at the end of the day, thats what sells the car, even if its a discredit to the development engineers.�

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Edited by Hkspower, 31 August 2016 - 04:47 PM.

Bro. Where did u get this and how much?

$30

https://www.facebook...outMat/?fref=ts

for those bros lamenting about the poor f/c and power of their ride, if i may offer my opinion as a marine engineer who works with 3 storey high diesel engines in excess of 20k hp on a daily basis. Many owners don't realize the technical marvel of the skyactiv-g engine sitting under the hood. the level of engineering that goes into the skyactiv engine is very impressive to those who understand the challenges of designing a good engine. with the highest compression ratio of 14 to 1, which is the world's first for a mass produced car,while the average cars out there typically have a compression ratio of 10:1 up to 12:1 max. So what is the big deal about the compression ratio? The higher the ratio, the more efficient the engine which equates to more power vs same displacement and the max toque is achieved nearer to mid rpm. the high compression is achieved by a�4-2-1 exhaust system, cavity pistons, multihole injectors among other�engineering�efforts.�

�

Ok, so it is technically well engineered, but so what? you still feel the car is�sluggish�so all this don't translate to real world benefits?

�

take a look at this torque curve then you will understand what is the crux of your grievance:

�

�

Max torque comes in at just after 3k rpm and is steady until just after 4.5k rpm. and notice the sharp the increase in torque just after 2.5k rpm? what this means is, if you keep your rpm below 2.5k and feel the car is sluggish, the reason is because the engine is the happiest between 3k-4.5k rpm. it loves to be revved in that range. this is the personality of the engine and car, which your sales person probably failed to mention to you before you bought the car, that this is no altis or vezel. �now that you have committed to the car and it would most probably be with you for quite a while, why don't you try not to change its characteristic, instead, try to change your driving style gradually and let it stay in its happy rev range and i am sure, you will grow to appreciate and even be rewarded by the pleasure of driving the car on how it was designed to be driven.

�

won't that extra bit of extra fuel cost be offset by enjoying your 100k investment more? mazda decided to market the mz3 by highlighting its F/C numbers obtained by adding nonsense such as the I-stop/I-Eloop system instead of highlighting the technical achievement of the skyactiv tecnology(engine+gearbox+chasis) because the mass market appeal is still on F/C number and at the end of the day, thats what sells the car, even if its a discredit to the development engineers.�

�

Hi HKSpower bro,

�

Very good point and thanks for the info.

�

Just to contribute, I switched from Honda to Mazda for a year + now and can share that the I am getting more power for a heavier car and yet get a FC of 11.5km/l average (191hp) with heavy town use vs about 10.2km/l for my previous car (155hp). The high compression ratio ROCKS :)

�

That's why the SPORT mode target the RPM to 3000 RPM when activated and the car is like a beast on the NSHW :)

�

I am quite happy so far, just wished I got the car at a lower COE level and all will be perfect !
�

Nicely written, bro Hkspower. It's indeed an engineering marvel. Even the long, strange looking and unequal length headers have its purpose. All parts are designed in such a way to accomodate the high engine compression.

�

for those bros lamenting about the poor f/c and power of their ride, if i may offer my opinion as a marine engineer who works with 3 storey high diesel engines in excess of 20k hp on a daily basis. Many owners don't realize the technical marvel of the skyactiv-g engine sitting under the hood. the level of engineering that goes into the skyactiv engine is very impressive to those who understand the challenges of designing a good engine. with the highest compression ratio of 14 to 1, which is the world's first for a mass produced car,while the average cars out there typically have a compression ratio of 10:1 up to 12:1 max. So what is the big deal about the compression ratio? The higher the ratio, the more efficient the engine which equates to more power vs same displacement and the max toque is achieved nearer to mid rpm. the high compression is achieved by a�4-2-1 exhaust system, cavity pistons, multihole injectors among other�engineering�efforts.�

�

Ok, so it is technically well engineered, but so what? you still feel the car is�sluggish�so all this don't translate to real world benefits?

�

take a look at this torque curve then you will understand what is the crux of your grievance:

�

�

Max torque comes in at just after 3k rpm and is steady until just after 4.5k rpm. and notice the sharp the increase in torque just after 2.5k rpm? what this means is, if you keep your rpm below 2.5k and feel the car is sluggish, the reason is because the engine is the happiest between 3k-4.5k rpm. it loves to be revved in that range. this is the personality of the engine and car, which your sales person probably failed to mention to you before you bought the car, that this is no altis or vezel. �now that you have committed to the car and it would most probably be with you for quite a while, why don't you try not to change its characteristic, instead, try to change your driving style gradually and let it stay in its happy rev range and i am sure, you will grow to appreciate and even be rewarded by the pleasure of driving the car on how it was designed to be driven.

�

won't that extra bit of extra fuel cost be offset by enjoying your 100k investment more? mazda decided to market the mz3 by highlighting its F/C numbers obtained by adding nonsense such as the I-stop/I-Eloop system instead of highlighting the technical achievement of the skyactiv tecnology(engine+gearbox+chasis) because the mass market appeal is still on F/C number and at the end of the day, thats what sells the car, even if its a discredit to the development engineers.�

�

For those who really want more from your Skyactiv engines, check OrangeVirusTuning. Mat Wilson is a world-renowned US-based Mazda authority. He can provide Power, economy & balaced power+economy tunes. He's now tuning Skyactiv & older Mazdas in the Philippines remotely thru OVTph. For inquiries, contact em...

image-0.02.01.06415b2595379b45efac418899

OVTph Contact Details:
+639179426935
+639271558085

ovtphilippinesGMAIL.com

OrangeVirusTuningPh Facebook

Edited by minsanity, 01 September 2016 - 02:49 AM.

Gear knob leather peel off. 3 months ago reported at leng kee liao still no stock. Really poor service. Very disspointed.Be gentle when cleaning. Really lousy quality.

for those bros lamenting about the poor f/c and power of their ride, if i may offer my opinion as a marine engineer who works with 3 storey high diesel engines in excess of 20k hp on a daily basis. Many owners don't realize the technical marvel of the skyactiv-g engine sitting under the hood. the level of engineering that goes into the skyactiv engine is very impressive to those who understand the challenges of designing a good engine. with the highest compression ratio of 14 to 1, which is the world's first for a mass produced car,while the average cars out there typically have a compression ratio of 10:1 up to 12:1 max. So what is the big deal about the compression ratio? The higher the ratio, the more efficient the engine which equates to more power vs same displacement and the max toque is achieved nearer to mid rpm. the high compression is achieved by a 4-2-1 exhaust system, cavity pistons, multihole injectors among other engineering efforts.

Ok, so it is technically well engineered, but so what? you still feel the car is sluggish so all this don't translate to real world benefits?

take a look at this torque curve then you will understand what is the crux of your grievance:

Max torque comes in at just after 3k rpm and is steady until just after 4.5k rpm. and notice the sharp the increase in torque just after 2.5k rpm? what this means is, if you keep your rpm below 2.5k and feel the car is sluggish, the reason is because the engine is the happiest between 3k-4.5k rpm. it loves to be revved in that range. this is the personality of the engine and car, which your sales person probably failed to mention to you before you bought the car, that this is no altis or vezel. now that you have committed to the car and it would most probably be with you for quite a while, why don't you try not to change its characteristic, instead, try to change your driving style gradually and let it stay in its happy rev range and i am sure, you will grow to appreciate and even be rewarded by the pleasure of driving the car on how it was designed to be driven.

won't that extra bit of extra fuel cost be offset by enjoying your 100k investment more? mazda decided to market the mz3 by highlighting its F/C numbers obtained by adding nonsense such as the I-stop/I-Eloop system instead of highlighting the technical achievement of the skyactiv tecnology(engine+gearbox+chasis) because the mass market appeal is still on F/C number and at the end of the day, thats what sells the car, even if its a discredit to the development engineers.

Not a Mazda owner but just wondering why Mazda didn't go for turbo option like everyone else. Even the civic has turbo now.

Like you say skyactiv maybe an innovation but why the hassle when the additional performance and efficiency achieved is still way lower compared to a small turbo option? e.g a 1.4T turbo engine can get 150hp and torque 250Nm at a much lower 1500 rpm. Not to mention FC like 20km/l.

Is it the cost factor or reliability considerations that Mazda didn't go for turbo? Would using such high compression in the skyactiv out more strain on the engine like a turbo would?

for those bros lamenting about the poor f/c and power of their ride, if i may offer my opinion as a marine engineer who works with 3 storey high diesel engines in excess of 20k hp on a daily basis. Many owners don't realize the technical marvel of the skyactiv-g engine sitting under the hood. the level of engineering that goes into the skyactiv engine is very impressive to those who understand the challenges of designing a good engine. with the highest compression ratio of 14 to 1, which is the world's first for a mass produced car,while the average cars out there typically have a compression ratio of 10:1 up to 12:1 max. So what is the big deal about the compression ratio? The higher the ratio, the more efficient the engine which equates to more power vs same displacement and the max toque is achieved nearer to mid rpm. the high compression is achieved by a 4-2-1 exhaust system, cavity pistons, multihole injectors among other engineering efforts.

Ok, so it is technically well engineered, but so what? you still feel the car is sluggish so all this don't translate to real world benefits?

take a look at this torque curve then you will understand what is the crux of your grievance:

Max torque comes in at just after 3k rpm and is steady until just after 4.5k rpm. and notice the sharp the increase in torque just after 2.5k rpm? what this means is, if you keep your rpm below 2.5k and feel the car is sluggish, the reason is because the engine is the happiest between 3k-4.5k rpm. it loves to be revved in that range. this is the personality of the engine and car, which your sales person probably failed to mention to you before you bought the car, that this is no altis or vezel. now that you have committed to the car and it would most probably be with you for quite a while, why don't you try not to change its characteristic, instead, try to change your driving style gradually and let it stay in its happy rev range and i am sure, you will grow to appreciate and even be rewarded by the pleasure of driving the car on how it was designed to be driven.

won't that extra bit of extra fuel cost be offset by enjoying your 100k investment more? mazda decided to market the mz3 by highlighting its F/C numbers obtained by adding nonsense such as the I-stop/I-Eloop system instead of highlighting the technical achievement of the skyactiv tecnology(engine+gearbox+chasis) because the mass market appeal is still on F/C number and at the end of the day, thats what sells the car, even if its a discredit to the development engineers.

Bro, nice write up & I am enjoying my skyactiv with ron 98 for even more zoom zoom...

Thanks for your response. For tyre pressure, I follow the recommendation written on the door which is 250PSI, I think. And I check and top up the pressure once a month. Handbrake should not be the issue as it should show warning light on the dashboard which I always check. Heavy footed...may be...but I drove like that on my previous Toyota also. My point is Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing. BTW, I don't trust the FC reading on the dashboard. My FC reading is based on the odo reading and the amount of petrol I actually pumped.

Thanks for your input. Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing.

Thanks for your response. My concern is Mazda's FC is so much better than Toyota on paper and yet the actual is really disappointing.

IMO, the 16" stock rims are very heavy that may contribute to the poor fc you getting! I would suggest you try 230psi for the front & 220psi for the back tyres OR same psi for all tyres to try out which is the best combination that suits your driving condition! 250psi maybe too much as per AD recommendation!

For those who really want more from your Skyactiv engines, check OrangeVirusTuning. Mat Wilson is a world-renowned US-based Mazda authority. He can provide Power, economy & balaced power+economy tunes. He's now tuning Skyactiv & older Mazdas in the Philippines remotely thru OVTph. For inquiries, contact em...

OVTph Contact Details:
+639179426935
+639271558085

ovtphilippinesGMAIL.com

OrangeVirusTuningPh Facebook

Thanks for sharing the tuning service, bro. I believe OV tune US spec Mazdas. There are some differences between US spec and our Mazda 3, which is UK spec. Besides, 1.5L 3s are the predominant ones on our road. From what I know, there is no 1.5L 3s in the US, so I am unsure whether OV have tuning programmes for the smaller Skyactiv engine.

Anyway, we have got ahold of Knight Sport tuner from Japan. We are currently arranging for the tuner to come to Singapore for a tuning session :)

Edited by HamtayoChan, 01 September 2016 - 10:11 AM.

Thanks for sharing the tuning service, bro. I believe OV tune US spec Mazdas. There are some differences between US spec and our Mazda 3, which is UK spec. Besides, 1.5L 3s are the predominant ones on our road. From what I know, there is no 1.5L 3s in the US, so I am unsure whether OV have tuning programmes for the smaller Skyactiv engine.

Anyway, we have got ahold of Knight Sport tuner from Japan. We are currently arranging for the tuner to come to Singapore for a tuning session :)

OVT extracts stock logs from each & every car it custom tunes. Mown3rs get to dictate wishes on Octane, power, economy or combo. Each stock log is sent to the US via email for analysis. Tune, logging of new tune data, resending & more fine tunes follow til the car gets the most ideal numbers & behavior. Some get there after 3, others after 4-5. No 2 cars are exactly the same due to our ECUs adaptations to different factors.
Fees are per car, not per tune sent. The great part is being flexible, reversible & OVT support has no expiry.
The PH market has 1.5s & 2.0s w/ 13:1 compression. I believe sg, Thai & Europe gets 14:1. OVT can customize them all....MX5s, CX5s, CX3s, 2s, 3s...even the old MZRs, CX7s & 9s.
Just sharing. PH is just a stone's throw from sg. Who knows it might just be worth looking into, brothahs.:)

Not a Mazda owner but just wondering why Mazda didn't go for turbo option like everyone else. Even the civic has turbo now.

Like you say skyactiv maybe an innovation but why the hassle when the additional performance and efficiency achieved is still way lower compared to a small turbo option? e.g a 1.4T turbo engine can get 150hp and torque 250Nm at a much lower 1500 rpm. Not to mention FC like 20km/l.

Is it the cost factor or reliability considerations that Mazda didn't go for turbo? Would using such high compression in the skyactiv out more strain on the engine like a turbo would?

�

thats a very good point. and i will humbly offer my opinion for discussion: let us draw comparison with another maker of driver's car, Honda. Honda has won over many car enthusiast in the last 3 decades with cars that gives drivers the pleasure of driving with the philosophy " driver and car as one". and honda resisted the calling of the turbo engine to compete with the likes of its Japanese competitors such as Subaru, Nissan, Mitsubishi where their flagship "fun" sporty cars comes with that turbine in the hood. the decision not to have a turbo engine for honda, and i believe mazda as well as, is that having a car with non-linear power band is not as fun to drive, turbo lags and sudden turbo surges robs the driver of the feeling of total control and power predictability. as a driving purist advocate, they rejected the turbo for a long time based on principles. but of course, now we have the new honda civics with turbo and although i have not read much about their turbo but i would believe they have engineered it to reduce turbo lag and provide a more linear power output.

�

now back to mazda, their mx-5 miata has won many accolades for being a really fun car to drive, all without the use of a turbo engine. reaffirming the philosophy that a car's driving pleasure is not just about the max power of the engine but many factors combined to give the driver the exhilaration and satisfaction of a spirited drive.�

�

it is interesting to note that the CX-9 SUV has a skyactiv turbo 2.5l engine and they have confirmed that this engine fits the mzd 3 and 6 engine bay fuels the rumor that next year's mazdaspeed sp 3 will have the 2.5l turbo engine.�

�

Zoom-zoom

Bro, nice write up & I am enjoying my skyactiv with ron 98 for even more zoom zoom...

�

incidentally, i think the skyactiv engine is one of the very rare stock,� non-turbo engines where a higher RON fuel actually do make a difference to engine performance. the primary reason to use a higher RON fuel(apart from any minute additives they used, which is actually just for marketing purpose) is to prevent detonation, which normal naturally aspirated engine will not have much of a problem with, but is more pronounced in a high compression engine where the highly compressed air heats up even more(thats why turbo engine has intercoolers to cool the charged air before entry in to the engine cylinders) and will be very prone to premature ignition. it doesn't help that our local climate is hot so the intake air tempt is already hot.

�

in summary, you are not wasting your money on higher RON fuel on your mzd 3 as contrary to what can be said about other cars. � �

On higher RON than recommended...The PH market 13:1 compression ratio Skyactivs are factory tuned to regular unleaded. Most use Shell FuelSave RON91. There is no ping/detonation & no felt difference in performance going higher than recommended. That's the beauty of Skyactiv here. High compression that can run on regular petrol.
However, when TUNED to a corresponding higher RON, these engines can unleash stored performance potential...more power, more torque & still get better FC numbers than stock tunes. We've seen OVTuned 1.5s outpacing stock 2.0s here in fun test races & runs. It's crazy. The FC of these tuned Skys are even significantly better than stock. The hidden advantage in our version of the 1.5 Sky is lesser weight. No iStop & iEloop systems. Power to weight ratio increase is felt almost instantaneously.

How do you guys find the power output from this car? Personally, I find that this car is kind of lethargic�at 2k to 2.5k rpm. Need to push to 3k for comfortable power output. As for consumption, it range between 6.4L/100 to around 7.8L/100, depending on the ratio of exp vs city. Not exactly fantastic consumption as advertise. I guess their consumption is based on feather foot and travel less than 80km/h. Find this car having difficulties going up to 90km/h(Not unachievable), but like need to step a bit more and power like not enough to keep it there. Don't know how to describe the lack of power. Other than these, this car is not bad.

�

By the way, does you guys car when wind up window, when the glass hit the top of the window frame, it has "Tok" sound. Or is it "jupe(rubber stopping it)" sound?

�

our car is only 1.5L nia, what u expect, plus our car body is heavy compare to other sedan.

Normally for me if need power, i just rev higher 3000 to 4000 rpm, once over take or reach the desire speed, then i will release the pedal to lower the rev.
�

thats a very good point. and i will humbly offer my opinion for discussion: let us draw comparison with another maker of driver's car, Honda. Honda has won over many car enthusiast in the last 3 decades with cars that gives drivers the pleasure of driving with the philosophy " driver and car as one". and honda resisted the calling of the turbo engine to compete with the likes of its Japanese competitors such as Subaru, Nissan, Mitsubishi where their flagship "fun" sporty cars comes with that turbine in the hood. the decision not to have a turbo engine for honda, and i believe mazda as well as, is that having a car with non-linear power band is not as fun to drive, turbo lags and sudden turbo surges robs the driver of the feeling of total control and power predictability. as a driving purist advocate, they rejected the turbo for a long time based on principles. but of course, now we have the new honda civics with turbo and although i have not read much about their turbo but i would believe they have engineered it to reduce turbo lag and provide a more linear power output.

�

now back to mazda, their mx-5 miata has won many accolades for being a really fun car to drive, all without the use of a turbo engine. reaffirming the philosophy that a car's driving pleasure is not just about the max power of the engine but many factors combined to give the driver the exhilaration and satisfaction of a spirited drive.�

�

it is interesting to note that the CX-9 SUV has a skyactiv turbo 2.5l engine and they have confirmed that this engine fits the mzd 3 and 6 engine bay fuels the rumor that next year's mazdaspeed sp 3 will have the 2.5l turbo engine.�

�

Zoom-zoom

�

Of course if you talking about high power sports/performance, then nothing beats NA big engine volume and cylinder count. �

�

But we are talking about our measly run-of-the-mill low power car where the horsepower at hand is barely enough to move the car from standstill (or overtake). �I don't think "fun" driving goes hand-in-hand with our kind of car.

�

From personal experience the power and torque at low 1.5K rpm from a small turbo engine greatly enhance the driving experience (esp moving off and overtaking). �I am driving an A3 1.4T, my first turbo car. �I can't really feel any turbo lag (maybe because the turbo already kicks in at 1.5K rpm). �Compared to my previous 1.6L NA Jap, the turbo really makes a very significant difference in drive.

our car is only 1.5L nia, what u expect, plus our car body is heavy compare to other sedan.

Normally for me if need power, i just rev higher 3000 to 4000 rpm, once over take or reach the desire speed, then i will release the pedal to lower the rev.
�

Well, I was expecting a better power given it's rating. Disappointment sets in when it feels like driving Altis(Previous Generation pre FL), the power and additional torque available isn't significant. After reading the post by one of the forummer here, I drive around 3k rpm to move off. Well, the power is there, but not as good as what I'm expecting it to be. Just a 1.5L, what can I ask for right....

anyone here done the OVT on 2.0l m3 HB yet? Appreciate if anyone is willing to share their experience!

well been driving the 3 for almost a year now only complaint is its kinda noisy. but well no $ for Lexus so.....

�

As most people have said, its only a 1.5L so don't expect too much. when the car was bought it was already stated that it had 118HP, 150Nm of torque.

so............. it is a very ordinary car...... and as also mentioned by many others here, it is knowing when all the power comes in. if the car is always driven at 2k rpm then.... well you ain't going to feel much.

�

can't compare the 3 to a turbo car as its totally not the same. NA vs Turbo. 2 very different driving characteristics.

not to mention turbo has its own set of issues as well.

�

bottom line is be happy with the car you are driving. =) there are alot more important issues in life than a car...

�

Think of it this way, when the car feels under-powered, be thankful you don't have to squeeze on mrt in the morning with smelly, sweaty people.�

�

When the car don't have fantastic audio, be thankful that you don't have to listen to the horrible drone of the mrt tracks on the downtown/circle line.

�

When the car needs servicing, be thankful its not like the Tanjong pagar incident where there was smoke on the platform...

�

as for me, noisy car, just plug in noise cancelling headphones =) looks weird i know but sounds good [;)]

�

i guess we have to take into account the unique car market we have in Singapore, where we are maybe only 1 of 3 countries in the world to have the 1.5l model while the rest of the world has the "basic" model with 2l(with 155�hp and 150�lb-ft of torque, 0-100km in 7.8sec) and the 2.5l (with 184�hp and 185�lb-ft of torque, 0-100km in 6.9). the benefit of the high compression engine cannot be fully utilized in our 1.5l. � Because of our tax system, we have the smallest powerplant but we pay the highest price for our mz3 while the rest of the world pays less then 30k USD to enjoy the 2.5l that has been ranked number one among Affordable Small Cars in U.S in 2014 and in the Canadian Car of the Year rankings Mazda 3 was chosen as the Best New Small Car. Canadian magazine The Car Guide chose Mazda 3 as the Best Compact Car in its Best Buys car rankings for 2015 and 2016, among other accolades the mz3 has received for the 2l and 2.5l models.

�

to put all these into prospective, if our tax system is not the way they are, and we are paying the OMV prices + local agent margin and you get the 2.5L for less then 40k SGD, you would find that you are getting your money's worth. sure, the sound insulation leaves much to be desired, and there lots of other improvements that can be made, but bare in mind, mazda did manage to keep the OMV low, it is a tight balancing act that the designers must choose how to budget the cost of building the car. paying 100k for the 1.5l makes you have an expectation of a 100k car but lets be fair to mazda, the true selling price from the factory is +/-20kSGD, and for this price i feel they did a decent if not good job compared to other makes/models in the same category.

Hey guys. FYI. Think the workshop is going to get even more crowded. http://www.bloomberg...umer-complaints

Hey guys. FYI. Think the workshop is going to get even more crowded. http://www.bloomberg...umer-complaints

It may not affect cars sold in Singapore. There are a few manufacturing plants in the world. Recalls sometimes only apply to cars produced by certain plants. Lets wait and see.

Hi guys, can I check whether any of you have changed your car battery and after how long?

Does the car show a warning light when battery is weakening and need replacement?

IMO, the 16" stock rims are very heavy that may contribute to the poor fc you getting! I would suggest you try 230psi for the front & 220psi for the back tyres OR same psi for all tyres to try out which is the best combination that suits your driving condition! 250psi maybe too much as per AD recommendation!

�

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try.
�

Hi guys, can I check whether any of you have changed your car battery and after how long?
Does the car show a warning light when battery is weakening and need replacement?

Majority lasts for 2 years.

There is a warning light but when it appears, you might not have that much juice left. One of my friends shared his car died the next morning after noticing the low battery warning the night before.

i guess we have to take into account the unique car market we have in Singapore, where we are maybe only 1 of 3 countries in the world to have the 1.5l model while the rest of the world has the "basic" model with 2l(with 155�hp and 150�lb-ft of torque, 0-100km in 7.8sec) and the 2.5l (with 184�hp and 185�lb-ft of torque, 0-100km in 6.9). the benefit of the high compression engine cannot be fully utilized in our 1.5l. � Because of our tax system, we have the smallest powerplant but we pay the highest price for our mz3 while the rest of the world pays less then 30k USD to enjoy the 2.5l that has been ranked number one among Affordable Small Cars in U.S in 2014 and in the Canadian Car of the Year rankings Mazda 3 was chosen as the Best New Small Car. Canadian magazine The Car Guide chose Mazda 3 as the Best Compact Car in its Best Buys car rankings for 2015 and 2016, among other accolades the mz3 has received for the 2l and 2.5l models.

�

to put all these into prospective, if our tax system is not the way they are, and we are paying the OMV prices + local agent margin and you get the 2.5L for less then 40k SGD, you would find that you are getting your money's worth. sure, the sound insulation leaves much to be desired, and there lots of other improvements that can be made, but bare in mind, mazda did manage to keep the OMV low, it is a tight balancing act that the designers must choose how to budget the cost of building the car. paying 100k for the 1.5l makes you have an expectation of a 100k car but lets be fair to mazda, the true selling price from the factory is +/-20kSGD, and for this price i feel they did a decent if not good job compared to other makes/models in the same category.

�

Agree with you. Only in Singapore I drive a car with such a small engine. In Australia, I always been driving 6.0L V8 for the price of a 1.5L Mazda 3 here. And totally agree with you, we over paid by a lot with so many layers of taxes and markup.�

�

When I bought mine last time, there's only 1.5L. The agent didnt event tell me that 2.0L coming in. Totally makes no sense to buy 1.5L. Its extremely under-powered. For my 1.5 car, my avg FC is 8.3L/100km, because I always accelerate to 3k to 4k just to move off. I think with a 2.0L i will most probably get same or even better FC.�

�

Smaller engine does not equate to fuel savings. But smaller engine does equate to added frustration. Hope they do release a Mazda Speed 3 with AWD + CX9 2.5L turbo charged engine, then it makes sense to change from 1.5L. Small pocket rocket = endless amount of fun and laughter!�

i do 260 psi for all tyres for a 2.0 mz3

Agree with you. Only in Singapore I drive a car with such a small engine. In Australia, I always been driving 6.0L V8 for the price of a 1.5L Mazda 3 here. And totally agree with you, we over paid by a lot with so many layers of taxes and markup.�

�

When I bought mine last time, there's only 1.5L. The agent didnt event tell me that 2.0L coming in. Totally makes no sense to buy 1.5L. Its extremely under-powered. For my 1.5 car, my avg FC is 8.3L/100km, because I always accelerate to 3k to 4k just to move off. I think with a 2.0L i will most probably get same or even better FC.�

�

Smaller engine does not equate to fuel savings. But smaller engine does equate to added frustration. Hope they do release a Mazda Speed 3 with AWD + CX9 2.5L turbo charged engine, then it makes sense to change from 1.5L. Small pocket rocket = endless amount of fun and laughter!�

Agree. Too small an engine without turbo or supercharger boost equal to lousy driveability. For mazda 3 this kind of body size, a 2L mated to it will be just perfect. Sadly, the engine choice dealers bring in, are largely affected by COE category.

Majority lasts for 2 years.

There is a warning light but when it appears, you might not have that much juice left. One of my friends shared his car died the next morning after noticing the low battery warning the night before.

I changed mine 3mths before end of 2nd year. The battery weak warning light had not come on yet but i noted the car struggling abit to start when start button is pressed and also the iStop light had showed amber colour for no reason on and off. Those were the so-called warning signs. I changed the battery and evrythg went back to norm.

If i had waited longer...the battery weak light wld likely come on..but i didnt want to risk having to deal with a dead battery...

Not a Mazda owner but just wondering why Mazda didn't go for turbo option like everyone else. Even the civic has turbo now.

Like you say skyactiv maybe an innovation but why the hassle when the additional performance and efficiency achieved is still way lower compared to a small turbo option? e.g a 1.4T turbo engine can get 150hp and torque 250Nm at a much lower 1500 rpm. Not to mention FC like 20km/l.

Is it the cost factor or reliability considerations that Mazda didn't go for turbo? Would using such high compression in the skyactiv out more strain on the engine like a turbo would?

�

Turbo sounds good on paper but it comes with reliability issues coz of the strain and heat. Many turbos develop loss of power due to leaks or engine problem after a few years. For example, the VW "engine of the year" has great performance but a lot of owners get piston crack issues.

won't that extra bit of extra fuel cost be offset by enjoying your 100k investment more?�

�

Spot on bro, if you let the gearbox downshift and build the revs, overtaking/joining freeways becomes a breeze. Our 118 HP is obtained at 6000rpm. At 2000rpm you are only getting 40.

�

This car is heavy, and has a NA engine. Lugging it a < 2k rpm might save a bit of fuel, but it becomes a depressing experience for you and the line behind you, while you chug along in your green halo.

�

I don't keep it below 2.5k rpm unless cruising and I still can get 8km/100L (50/50 highway town)

Hi guys, can I check whether any of you have changed your car battery and after how long?
Does the car show a warning light when battery is weakening and need replacement?

My friend warning light came up on the 26 month.

We don't have many diesel Mazda models OTR in SG.

Hey guys. FYI. Think the workshop is going to get even more crowded. http://www.bloomberg...umer-complaints

�

How much did you paid for the battery? Went back to TEK?

I changed mine 3mths before end of 2nd year. The battery weak warning light had not come on yet but i noted the car struggling abit to start when start button is pressed and also the iStop light had showed amber colour for no reason on and off. Those were the so-called warning signs. I changed the battery and evrythg went back to norm.

If i had waited longer...the battery weak light wld likely come on..but i didnt want to risk having to deal with a dead battery...

�

Of course if you talking about high power sports/performance, then nothing beats NA big engine volume and cylinder count. �

�

But we are talking about our measly run-of-the-mill low power car where the horsepower at hand is barely enough to move the car from standstill (or overtake). �I don't think "fun" driving goes hand-in-hand with our kind of car.

�

From personal experience the power and torque at low 1.5K rpm from a small turbo engine greatly enhance the driving experience (esp moving off and overtaking). �I am driving an A3 1.4T, my first turbo car. �I can't really feel any turbo lag (maybe because the turbo already kicks in at 1.5K rpm). �Compared to my previous 1.6L NA Jap, the turbo really makes a very significant difference in drive.

�

To each their own I suppose. I wouldn't want to afford the additional $30K compared to the 1.5 Mazda3 (or $18K compared to the 2.0). All well and good if you like taking off from the stoplight and overtaking at speed. We each have our preferences and it's best to drive what we feel happiest with.
�

To each their own I suppose. I wouldn't want to afford the additional $30K compared to the 1.5 Mazda3 (or $18K compared to the 2.0). All well and good if you like taking off from the stoplight and overtaking at speed. We each have our preferences and it's best to drive what we feel happiest with.

Please don't misunderstand. Mz3 is a great package. I was just discussing the rationale behind the engine.

Btw: Someone just reported the audi a3 is going for $119k.

Edited by zerobim08, 03 September 2016 - 07:08 PM.

We don't have many diesel Mazda models OTR in SG.

How much did you paid for the battery? Went back to TEK?

dcb: Close to $300 for the Q80 (Bosch) battery for start/stop system and braking energy regeneration. Not from TEK.

..there was a cheaper one ..$200plus...but i didnt want to be stingy on battery, esply with this car....

Why is Mazda 3 battery so expensive?

I paid only $100 for Amaron NS-60 maintenance free battery

Why is Mazda 3 battery so expensive?

I paid only $100 for Amaron NS-60 maintenance free battery

cos it aint no ordinary battery..it start stop enabled...enabled to irritate the shlt out of me....

pay more to be irked....

cos it aint no ordinary battery..it start stop enabled...enabled to irritate the shlt out of me....

pay more to be irked....

So can use cheap batt then off start stop every start of journey?

IMO, the 16" stock rims are very heavy that may contribute to the poor fc you getting! I would suggest you try 230psi for the front & 220psi for the back tyres OR same psi for all tyres to try out which is the best combination that suits your driving condition! 250psi maybe too much as per AD recommendation!

�

i Thought higher PSI will be more fuel efficient but more noisy, while lesser PSI will result in better handling , less noise but less fuel efficient...?

Bro, can share where you bought the battery. Ride is going to be 1 year old in a month's time.

dcb: Close to $300 for the Q80 (Bosch) battery for start/stop system and braking energy regeneration. Not from TEK.

..there was a cheaper one ..$200plus...but i didnt want to be stingy on battery, esply with this car....

�

Please don't misunderstand. Mz3 is a great package. I was just discussing the rationale behind the engine.

Btw: Someone just reported the audi a3 is going for $119k.

�

No misunderstanding at all. Just slotting in my 2 cents. Cheers� :)�

�

BTW, the 119 A3 MIGHT be the PI variant. - info from web. However, I'm sure the agents are willing to bring the price down with some negotiations. As with ALL agents. haha

Bro, can share where you bought the battery. Ride is going to be 1 year old in a month's time.

..my bad, shld b Q85..As requested..I got it from: Xtremez Audio Accessories ...at Ubi.

...i thk u meant ur ride going to be 2yrs..

Installed a device to make the battery last at least 3 years so hope that device works.

..my bad, shld b Q85..As requested..I got it from: Xtremez Audio Accessories ...at Ubi.

...i thk u meant ur ride going to be 2yrs..

06 September 2016 - 11:57 PM
HZL

dcb,
The gps is working now by following ur instruction on the SD card.
Lucky it's a loose SD card, although strangely this happened, but relieved.
Thank u also on the Ron 95.
Really appreciate ur sharing n thank u!

07 September 2016 - 12:03 PM
Cheesepiekia

Really? Then that means the IRR should be quite good alrdy (Front 80%, Rear 90%)....no point changing it.�

Thanks ya!

You're welcome!

�

That was what my sales consultant told me when I collect my Mazda 3 in June.

07 September 2016 - 08:18 PM
dcb

Welcome HZL. Happened to me a few times and thats what i did to solve the problem.

dcb,
The gps is working now by following ur instruction on the SD card.
Lucky it's a loose SD card, although strangely this happened, but relieved.
Thank u also on the Ron 95.
Really appreciate ur sharing n thank u!

�

07 September 2016 - 09:31 PM
Baojian1990

hi guys, do you all ever think of changing the headunit for Mazda 3 or you all had came across any recommendation of changing the head unit to pioneer or alphine??�

�

�

07 September 2016 - 09:37 PM
Nkotb

hi guys, do you all ever think of changing the headunit for Mazda 3 or you all had came across any recommendation of changing the head unit to pioneer or alphine??
Just changed mine to pioneer.. But u need to customise the panel

08 September 2016 - 10:41 AM
Muchie

Just changed mine to pioneer.. But u need to customise the panel
Hi, can show us the picture? Wonder how it looks like.

08 September 2016 - 02:13 PM
Nkotb

Hi, can show us the picture? Wonder how it looks like.
U may refer to audio solution facebook page.. Not sure how to post the picture using the mobile version :(

08 September 2016 - 11:22 PM
Baojian1990

Just changed mine to pioneer.. But u need to customise the panel

You off engine the panel will go in or we can just keep it out??

All the standard reverse cam , GPS and steering control can use back?? Hmm

Most important thing is how much for the whole thing?

09 September 2016 - 12:16 AM
Rooney3

Seems Mazda SE don't release much info on the availability of the upcoming facelift.

Anyone has a sensing whether can start to pre order by this year? And typically will it be priced higher than current price? Or rather will the current model be discounted instead?

09 September 2016 - 02:49 PM
Madtari

Why is Mazda 3 battery so expensive?

I paid only $100 for Amaron NS-60 maintenance free battery

�

Go and google Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery and you will understand why...

09 September 2016 - 03:56 PM
Nkotb

You off engine the panel will go in or we can just keep it out??

All the standard reverse cam , GPS and steering control can use back?? Hmm

Most important thing is how much for the whole thing?
The panel u can choose to stay out or auto retract. Mine was standard because i was planning for my soundsystem, so did not loose out on any stock function.

Steering control, only volume and track skipping can work. Bluetooth and voice command cannot.

09 September 2016 - 08:20 PM
Baojian1990

The panel u can choose to stay out or auto retract. Mine was standard because i was planning for my soundsystem, so did not loose out on any stock function.

Steering control, only volume and track skipping can work. Bluetooth and voice command cannot.
Bro , can pm me how much you do in together??

Can we meet up one day to let me have a view??

I also hunting high and low for after market head unit

10 September 2016 - 09:53 AM
Kia7200

Found the pics for the pioneer infotainment unit. Actually personally I dont find it nice looking

Attached Thumbnails

10 September 2016 - 09:58 AM
Kia7200

There r 3 party infotainment from China, 9" , bluetooth and got gps. The resolution and sensitive of the panel is good

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10 September 2016 - 01:46 PM
7hm

There r 3 party infotainment from China, 9" , bluetooth and got gps. The resolution and sensitive of the panel is good

�

If you didn't think the MZD Connect was BMW enough, this particular one will help you...

�

�

�

Found the pics for the pioneer infotainment unit. Actually personally I dont find it nice looking

�

Yeah... looks very out of place.

10 September 2016 - 02:17 PM
Nkotb

Found the pics for the pioneer infotainment unit. Actually personally I dont find it nice looking
Well between crappy sound and good looks, somethings gotta give..

I went for better sound

i) hated the oem china heaunit abeit more functions

ii) the stock one looks good but full of bugs

Happy that i managed to attain sound nirvava

Edited by Nkotb, 10 September 2016 - 02:21 PM.

10 September 2016 - 02:31 PM
Nkotb

If you didn't think the MZD Connect was BMW enough, this particular one will help you...

Yeah... looks very out of place.
Guess either of u driving a mazda 3.

10 September 2016 - 02:31 PM
Kia7200

Well between crappy sound and good looks, somethings gotta give..

I went for better sound

i) hated the oem china heaunit abeit more functions

ii) the stock one looks good but full of bugs

Happy that i managed to attain sound nirvava
Im a very shallow person. Looks > sound

10 September 2016 - 02:32 PM
Nkotb

Im a very shallow person. Looks > sound
Doesnt matter... Everyone have their preference..

If looks matter go for delux.. Better than some china oem.

10 September 2016 - 02:34 PM
Kia7200

If you didn't think the MZD Connect was BMW enough, this particular one will help you...

Yeah... looks very out of place.
Mine is standard version, the "infotainment" really cannot make it. Hence I chose the china 9", size is just nice and blends well in mz3
Doesnt matter... Everyone have their preference..

If looks matter go for delux.. Better than some china oem.
Extra 6k le... Ya. Everyone have their preference

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2014 Mazda 3 part 120

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