I think the installer didn't follow/aware the ? sign, put the bitumen sheets upside-down Lah... deflecting sound waves the wrong way...
Possible ?
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Hahaha... the bitumen sheets came with a self-adhesive side... no way it was stuck on wrongly... overall all these measures add a lot of weight to the car... hence there is a significant trade off...
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In any case, if you do read articles of various manufacturers who advertise improved NVH through soundproofing measures, you will find that some of the most effective ways is to:
1) Use thicker glass for windscreen / windows - but the weight penalty is substantial. Especially some cars now use triple-laminate windscreens, and some windscreens are simply humongous (think C4 Picasso)
2) Extrusion of foam inserts into the hollow A or B pillars, this also weighs quite a bit.
3) Strategic placement of sound insulation materials (not sure what these are, but likely rubber/bitumen bits of varying densities) on the chassis and car frame, particularly large sheet metal surfaces to reduce resonance and vibrations, e.g. wheel wells, both inside and on the inner surface (inside the body).
4) Thicker steel sheets for strategic parts, including the firewall, front door posts (A pillars), B pillars, and roof.
5) Plugging the holes in the firewall, doors, body etc where wires pass through with rubber grommets and seals to reduce the amount of space for air and noise to pass through. Also covering all inner metal surfaces with soft materials (like inside of boot lid, door panels, roof, windows, etc). This includes the boot cavity where the rear seats fold down for access to the boot. This part is one of the largest culprits for noise coming through. The rear seats always have worse sound insulation than the front seats cos the boot isn't insulated from noise and it travels through largely through that cavity. Sealing this cavity isn't easy.
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For all these measures, a lot of measurements for the attenuation of the noise are made against how much (area coverage), how thick, how dense, how expensive and how heavy and how it impacts fuel consumption and meeting emissions standards has to be done before the manufacturer decides how to approach the sound insulation. You could of course seal up the car very well, but it may neither be cost effective or practical to use. This is why after that one experience with the Proton Wira and then reading up, I realise that all these third party sound insulation doesn't really work.
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For those considering, you have to ask yourself if you're irritated with the high or low frequency noises. This will then help you decide what type of third party insulation you want to install. Don't get your hopes too high... effects are rather minimal. You can actually measure the noise in your car before you do it... run on a certain stretch of road that you find particularly noisy. Check the sound file, see which frequencies are the highest, and work on those with the installer. Then check back again... will be good if you can post your results here... then we have some objective measure (may be limited scientifically but still better than nothing nevertheless) to go by.
Edited by teomingern, 17 July 2016 - 10:28 AM.
It's just like PPS some do 3 layers some do 12 layers. Shiny shiny easy to wash.. That's all.. Still get scratches and dents.
And for those who put in lots of $$$$$$.. On sound insulation, PPS, hi fi, speakers.. The one who buys your car in 3-5 years time will say thank you! But then life is short.. Got money spend la..
Edited by BenTong, 17 July 2016 - 10:49 AM.
Aiyah... I think you just let the cat out...the cheapest solution . A Kilat sound cancellation headphone. For those really serious be prepared to spend. For those who got Budget ($1K and below) lots of products out there. Just don't expect too much..
It's just like PPS some do 3 layers some do 12 layers. Shiny shiny easy to wash.. That's all.. Still get scratches and dents.
And for those who put in lots of $$$$$$.. On sound insulation, PPS, hi fi, speakers.. The one who buys your car in 3-5 years time will say thank you! But then life is short.. Got money spend la..
Quickly go file the patent, before car manufacturers comes up with in-cabin noise cancellation frequency generator.
Any car that don't come with any modern electronics will not fail easily.Hahaha... funny... but it was a decent car... very tough... reliable...
Mechanical parts are always very reliable. Electronics under our hot and humid weather will never last long.
Onz.. Let's kick start!Aiyah... I think you just let the cat out...
Quickly go file the patent, before car manufacturers comes up with in-cabin noise cancellation frequency generator.
Oh no, please don't let us dissuade you from soundproofing at MI! We need you review lehI think i used the normal type its a silver coloured one. not gold colour. kinda long ago liao can't recall much. Got a diy installer to do it at some multistorey carpark. $400 and he gave me $50 discount, was considered cheap at that time. haa
Sometimes all these add-on sound proofing only gives more of a placebo effect than having much real results. But if u think along the line of improving sound then it will probably give u better results. and of course, the sound proofing will also give u a nicer thud when closing.
The fxt doors still feel a bit hollow compared to my friend's 320i, but of course that doesn't mean 320i is a safer car than the fxt. In fact, i think i recall reading somewhere the fxt has better ncap crash results than even the 320.
The fxt is quieter than the current gen of jetta. Though the jetter has heavier doors. I test drove the x3 xdrive 2L before too. at normal speeds (0-80km/h) they all sound pretty quiet, can't tell the difference. At >100km/h that's where the difference comes in. The car with the bigger and lower profile tires will always be nosier! Wind noise becomes very negligible liao.
I noticed that the next 2 sats all fully booked for servicing at both TPY and LK!! Too many Subarus around these days!
Wa lao... Had to book for next thurs morning and ask bro for help to send in for servicing.
Hmm.. the more i think the more i can't decide to sound proof the 4 doors. lol. I even put down under remarks to do sound proof on 4 doors in my booking.
Got mine in May for 120k after all discounts. Now price increasing. But diff between fna and fxt only $13k. The premium of fxt over fna only about 10% more, we should be seeing more fxt on the roads. Hopefully can reduce the number of road hoggers on the road. Heheh.
Now my pet peeve is not so much about car noise, but rather the number of slow pokes on the road. Eg ppl hogging right most lane in kpe at 70, and ppl driving at 80 on first lane pie. Been seeing a lot of SLD Jazz on the roads and they are super slow and irritating. Ironically some of their vezel counterparts especially those in black are driving quite recklessly... Thinking they r driving a true suv.. Haiz, traffic these days...
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I teach 1 trick.
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Close up to them fast as close as tailgating before you jam brake.
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If these drivers look at their rear view mirror, sure kancheong spider move left.
Thats the problem when u have a powerful car hahahaha
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Last time, i drive MRS also cannot tahan these roadhogger le.
I teach 1 trick.
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Close up to them fast as close as tailgating before you jam brake.
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If these drivers look at their rear view mirror, sure kancheong spider move left.
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Last time, i drive MRS also cannot tahan these roadhogger le.
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lol what if he nervous and missteps on brake subconsciously�
lol what if he nervous and missteps on brake subconsciously�
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God bless you
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God bless you
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Dont la...
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Sometimes when i overtake slow drivers, can see old auntie or uncle (above 70s) ...�
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Lets be tolerant and not cause untoward incidents...
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Afterall , going faster by 10kn/hr, how many minutes can u save?
You also encountered bad driving experiences with black Vezels? I met 2 black Vezels on 2 separate occasions.Got mine in May for 120k after all discounts. Now price increasing. But diff between fna and fxt only $13k. The premium of fxt over fna only about 10% more, we should be seeing more fxt on the roads. Hopefully can reduce the number of road hoggers on the road. Heheh.
Now my pet peeve is not so much about car noise, but rather the number of slow pokes on the road. Eg ppl hogging right most lane in kpe at 70, and ppl driving at 80 on first lane pie. Been seeing a lot of SLD Jazz on the roads and they are super slow and irritating. Ironically some of their vezel counterparts especially those in black are driving quite recklessly... Thinking they r driving a true suv.. Haiz, traffic these days...
I don't even know that they want. More like they trying to test my patience. Cutting lane in a reckless manner and edging me from the side. I can't be bothered with them, even knowing a little tap on my accelerator is enough to blow them away. I got better things to do than entertain them. My family more important.
Dont la...
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Sometimes when i overtake slow drivers, can see old auntie or uncle (above 70s) ...�
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Lets be tolerant and not cause untoward incidents...
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Afterall , going faster by 10kn/hr, how many minutes can u save?
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Once, i was following TP CSI truck with siren driving at 80km/h on PIE.� After a while, the truck juz moved to lane 2.
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If TP CSI truck with siren can shift, why not other drivers?
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It is not a matter of time.� It is about not hogging lane 1.
Once, i was following TP CSI truck with siren driving at 80km/h on PIE.� After a while, the truck juz moved to lane 2.
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If TP CSI truck with siren can shift, why not other drivers?
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It is not a matter of time.� It is about not hogging lane 1.
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Personally i'm not too please with cars that hog the fastest lane too.�
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On the same token, we should also move back to the other lanes after we are done overtaking. It's only good road manners that we do that. Not always feasible, but have to make an effort i think. :)
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Also, not very wise to follow closely behind emergency vehicles. typically they have front back camera monitoring the situation... just saying. :P�
Ya. I realised its a problem too. Though it's a good problem. Now I understand what those powerful car felt when I was driving my previous sylphy. Sometimes it's not like they purposely pick up slowly. The thing is that damn car is indeed slow.... But the point is if I see a faster car coming behind me, I will surely give way especially on first lane. These buggers are hogging the faster lanes at below speed limits when there is clear traffic!!Thats the problem when u have a powerful car hahahaha
Yep those new SLD black vezels damn irritating, drive recklessly and try to overtake me for no good reason, even when his lane and mine are both clear. Best part is got one try to win me at traffic light... Seriously.... Afternthe traffic lights there is very rough curvy patch of road ( coz nearby got Mrt line construction) and this is where the fun begins. I increase speed and coast past that stretch without a sweat leaving the vezel far behind the dust. Haa. I dun get to do this every morning.You also encountered bad driving experiences with black Vezels? I met 2 black Vezels on 2 separate occasions.
I don't even know that they want. More like they trying to test my patience. Cutting lane in a reckless manner and edging me from the side. I can't be bothered with them, even knowing a little tap on my accelerator is enough to blow them away. I got better things to do than entertain them. My family more important.
Saw somewhere online someone tested on sports and sports sharp mode is very near to 7s.Any bros tried if 7.6 seconds is real? I somehow feel that it seems faster...
Personally, this car revs very fast and pulls like crazy in sports mode. I got a bit scared when I tried it once or twice just to see how fast is this car in case I'm in urgent need to drive fast hehe. I suspect Subaru is being conservative on its figures. If the claimed fc is 11.6km/L and I'm getting around 11km/L in 60hw 40 city, they can bluff us on the 0-100 figures as well?! Lol
Edited by mrhan1982, 18 July 2016 - 05:26 PM.
Yes. You are right. I have it install in my car.It's normal. The holes are for securing the mud flap which is an optional item.
You also encountered bad driving experiences with black Vezels? I met 2 black Vezels on 2 separate occasions.
I don't even know that they want. More like they trying to test my patience. Cutting lane in a reckless manner and edging me from the side. I can't be bothered with them, even knowing a little tap on my accelerator is enough to blow them away. I got better things to do than entertain them. My family more important.
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Vezels are too common here and it seems much more sluggish as compared to foresters.
It's not fair to compare the Vezel with the FXT, both has it strong points. The Vezel is not even 2.0, let alone 2.0 Turbo. It will never beat the FXT in terms of power and smooth ride. But we have to admit that the Vezel is much more efficient and generally cheaper to maintain.Yep those new SLD black vezels damn irritating, drive recklessly and try to overtake me for no good reason, even when his lane and mine are both clear. Best part is got one try to win me at traffic light... Seriously.... Afternthe traffic lights there is very rough curvy patch of road ( coz nearby got Mrt line construction) and this is where the fun begins. I increase speed and coast past that stretch without a sweat leaving the vezel far behind the dust. Haa. I dun get to do this every morning.
Saw somewhere online someone tested on sports and sports sharp mode is very near to 7s.
Personally, this car revs very fast and pulls like crazy in sports mode. I got a bit scared when I tried it once or twice just to see how fast is this car in case I'm in urgent need to drive fast hehe. I suspect Subaru is being conservative on its figures. If the claimed fc is 11.6km/L and I'm getting around 11km/L in 60hw 40 city, they can bluff us on the 0-100 figures as well?! Lol
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However the more perky Vezels are the hybrids versions with their electric motors generating their max torque almost like a twin charger. Their Low-end torque delivery makes them very good 0-100 sprinters. They are differentiated by their front grilles having piano black strip instead of chrome.
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As for the 0-100 of FXT, it depends who you believe, the stock speedometer or via GPS. In "real-world" GPS people can barely reach 8 secs in S mode. But speedometer showing 105km/h liao. Our speedometer is tune to the 5km/h faster for safety reasons. That's why people can pass the traffic cam at 100km/h without being caught.
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But then again, most manufacturer did the same tune down. So it�s the same across the industry.
The black vezel who tried to cut me is the new hybrid model with the hybrid badge. Also start seeing a few SLE vezel hybrids. Cool! Not that i zhua accelerator to purposely challenge the vezel. I believe they are fast on straight roads, but due to the poor road conditions and narrow lanes, I scared that fellow lose control and kenna me. So I kinda got scared and ran away. Lol. I've driven the non hybrid before, frankly speaking the cost effective rear axle torsion beam just doesn't cut it when I comes to traction on uneven roads. Just typical of any Eco Jap cars. But one thing to note is the stiff suspension of the bezels which I think it's tune to compensate for the taller height. It can be quite uncomfortable as I recall. Design wise, got to admit it wins hands down.It's not fair to compare the Vezel with the FXT, both has it strong points. The Vezel is not even 2.0, let alone 2.0 Turbo. It will never beat the FXT in terms of power and smooth ride. But we have to admit that the Vezel is much more efficient and generally cheaper to maintain.
However the more perky Vezels are the hybrids versions with their electric motors generating their max torque almost like a twin charger. Their Low-end torque delivery makes them very good 0-100 sprinters. They are differentiated by their front grilles having piano black strip instead of chrome.
As for the 0-100 of FXT, it depends who you believe, the stock speedometer or via GPS. In "real-world" GPS people can barely reach 8 secs in S mode. But speedometer showing 105km/h liao. Our speedometer is tune to the 5km/h faster for safety reasons. That's why people can pass the traffic cam at 100km/h without being caught.
But then again, most manufacturer did the same tune down. So it�s the same across the industry.
Edited by mrhan1982, 18 July 2016 - 08:13 PM.
Side track a bit, anyone using Zen window tint? Do you still feel the heat from the sun? From the website it claims more than 80% IR reduction on the clearer film while cutting 99% IR on darker tint.
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Yes, it is good and value for money.
I am using it and many of the Forester chat group member also used it.
Tohto is right! The Zen film is good and probably the cheapest i have heard for Forester. Beat the crap out of stock filmYes, it is good and value for money.
I am using it and many of the Forester chat group member also used it.
Edited by Swaku, 18 July 2016 - 10:29 PM.
Honestly speaking our FXT is not that fast at stop start acceleration. The CVT lag, no matter how they try to mitigate, is still present. Though not as obvious as other B&b cars. Adding to that our heavy 1.6tonners, bigger turbo with bigger lag and dragged by AWD drive train so there's only so much 350nm can do. If you be driven a 250bhp car in manual gears usually you will feel like you left your brain behind when the car accelerates. can't really feel that in the FXT.The black vezel who tried to cut me is the new hybrid model with the hybrid badge. Also start seeing a few SLE vezel hybrids. Cool! Not that i zhua accelerator to purposely challenge the vezel. I believe they are fast on straight roads, but due to the poor road conditions and narrow lanes, I scared that fellow lose control and kenna me. So I kinda got scared and ran away. Lol. I've driven the non hybrid before, frankly speaking the cost effective rear axle torsion beam just doesn't cut it when I comes to traction on uneven roads. Just typical of any Eco Jap cars. But one thing to note is the stiff suspension of the bezels which I think it's tune to compensate for the taller height. It can be quite uncomfortable as I recall. Design wise, got to admit it wins hands down.
I ever struggled with a 2.4l Camry on acceleration and only edged off at higher end speed after 50 to 60kmh. I was using "I" mode but its a smack at reality that the FXT is not as quick as you think.
However the FXT is very competent if you do suddenly acceleration on the move, e.g.: 20kmh to 90kmh or 40kmh to 120kmh, based on YouTube it can be as fast as the GTI!
FXT was marketed be an all round terrain carrier and never as a fast car.
But I think most of us treated like a grown up WRX with a big family friendly cabin and boot.....lol.
Edited by Pocus, 18 July 2016 - 11:09 PM.
I have to agreed with Pocus. I also felt that the FXT a bit lag when move off from stationary even in sport mode.Honestly speaking our FXT is not that fast at stop start acceleration. The CVT lag, no matter how they try to mitigate, is still present. Though not as obvious as other B&b cars. Adding to that our heavy 1.6tonners, bigger turbo with bigger lag and dragged by AWD drive train so there's only so much 350nm can do. If you be driven a 250bhp car in manual gears usually you will feel like you left your brain behind when the car accelerates. can't really feel that in the FXT.
I ever struggled with a 2.4l Camry on acceleration and only edged off at higher end speed after 50 to 60kmh. I was using "I" mode but its a smack at reality that the FXT is not as quick as you think.
However the FXT is very competent if you do suddenly acceleration on the move, e.g.: 20kmh to 90kmh or 40kmh to 120kmh, based on YouTube it can be as fast as the GTI!
FXT was marketed be an all round terrain carrier and never as a fast car.
But I think most of us treated like a grown up WRX with a big family friendly cabin and boot.....lol.
However, once on the move. A hard stomp on the accelerator on sport mode will able to push you back on the seat. And I actually enjoy this a lot. Fast overtaking slow traffic, merge into expressway.
Yup agreed, the fxt is not that fast when comes to initial acceleration from stop. The turbo lag can be clearly felt at I and even sports mode. Sports mode does reduce the effect of turbo lag quite a bit though. However, it is still much faster than most cars off the line without having to stomp your foot in the accelerator once the lights hit green. Compared to those 8 speed BMW gearbox, our cvt is considered quite slow in terms of response.Honestly speaking our FXT is not that fast at stop start acceleration. The CVT lag, no matter how they try to mitigate, is still present. Though not as obvious as other B&b cars. Adding to that our heavy 1.6tonners, bigger turbo with bigger lag and dragged by AWD drive train so there's only so much 350nm can do. If you be driven a 250bhp car in manual gears usually you will feel like you left your brain behind when the car accelerates. can't really feel that in the FXT.
I ever struggled with a 2.4l Camry on acceleration and only edged off at higher end speed after 50 to 60kmh. I was using "I" mode but its a smack at reality that the FXT is not as quick as you think.
However the FXT is very competent if you do suddenly acceleration on the move, e.g.: 20kmh to 90kmh or 40kmh to 120kmh, based on YouTube it can be as fast as the GTI!
FXT was marketed be an all round terrain carrier and never as a fast car.
But I think most of us treated like a grown up WRX with a big family friendly cabin and boot.....lol.
It is much more sensible to use our car as a comfortable family hauler which I'm doing so. Fast acceleration is often not necessary unless I'm avoiding danger or trying to squeeze myself out of tight traffic.
And some other car with more power than you will also blow you away, if he feels you too are 'hogging'.It's never ending.I teach 1 trick.
Close up to them fast as close as tailgating before you jam brake.
If these drivers look at their rear view mirror, sure kancheong spider move left.
Last time, i drive MRS also cannot tahan these roadhogger le.
That's why most of the time i don't bother with those wannabe racers out there. They can try to edge me as much as they like but I can't be bothered to entertain them. Especially most of the time my family is in the car with me.Yup agreed, the fxt is not that fast when comes to initial acceleration from stop. The turbo lag can be clearly felt at I and even sports mode. Sports mode does reduce the effect of turbo lag quite a bit though. However, it is still much faster than most cars off the line without having to stomp your foot in the accelerator once the lights hit green. Compared to those 8 speed BMW gearbox, our cvt is considered quite slow in terms of response.
It is much more sensible to use our car as a comfortable family hauler which I'm doing so. Fast acceleration is often not necessary unless I'm avoiding danger or trying to squeeze myself out of tight traffic.
The FXT by its own credit is good or even great, for what it's engineered to do. Though lacking in initial bite due to the weight and CVT, it makes up with wonderful enjoyment once inertia picks up in the mid range region. Excellent safe family car with a dose of naughty fun anytime. That's why the car was always in my radar since a long way back.
That's why most of the time i don't bother with those wannabe racers out there. They can try to edge me as much as they like but I can't be bothered to entertain them. Especially most of the time my family is in the car with me.
The FXT by its own credit is good or even great, for what it's engineered to do. Though lacking in initial bite due to the weight and CVT, it makes up with wonderful enjoyment once inertia picks up in the mid range region. Excellent safe family car with a dose of naughty fun anytime. That's why the car was always in my radar since a long way back.
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Correct me if I am wrong but Subaru WRX also uses CVT gearbox (same as Forester??). Their engine (not sure if it is the same make as Forester) is tune higher for greater HP output and torque is mated to a CVT gearbox, I dont see any slow pick up from WRX but then it could also be that WRX is 200+kg lighter than FXT. � :P
I agree, but when I tried S# the other day it was bang from the start. I think S# is what those who talk about lag are looking for. Never tried manual with paddle shifters yet...Honestly speaking our FXT is not that fast at stop start acceleration. The CVT lag, no matter how they try to mitigate, is still present. Though not as obvious as other B&b cars. Adding to that our heavy 1.6tonners, bigger turbo with bigger lag and dragged by AWD drive train so there's only so much 350nm can do. If you be driven a 250bhp car in manual gears usually you will feel like you left your brain behind when the car accelerates. can't really feel that in the FXT.
I ever struggled with a 2.4l Camry on acceleration and only edged off at higher end speed after 50 to 60kmh. I was using "I" mode but its a smack at reality that the FXT is not as quick as you think.
However the FXT is very competent if you do suddenly acceleration on the move, e.g.: 20kmh to 90kmh or 40kmh to 120kmh, based on YouTube it can be as fast as the GTI!
FXT was marketed be an all round terrain carrier and never as a fast car.
But I think most of us treated like a grown up WRX with a big family friendly cabin and boot.....lol.
Edited by Rachdanom, 19 July 2016 - 10:06 AM.
What ever we put in the FXT, still can't outrun a proton or a Kancil on NSH..The Forester will be great with a dual clutch transmission... not only start from standing but the switch up to higher gears on the move.
Please don't offer more ideas. I already kenna cut when on lane 1 following the car in front with a constant 5 car space at 90+. He was coming out from Alexandra towards west. Red.
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Thanks ah
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Maybe you could drive on lane 2 to avoid this incident in future
Maybe you could drive on lane 2 to avoid this incident in future
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I will go to lane 2 when its empty and when someone behind me is faster. I do not need Inline 6 to teach me.
I will go to lane 2 when its empty and when someone behind me is faster. I do not need Inline 6 to teach me.
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Sh..................
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It is V12 cut half.
I did opti coat with Benny. Can find his contact from this forum under the detailing session. Dunno how many h but only cost me $290 for 2 coats. So far so good. He's a diy detailer btw.By the way, any Forester owners here have dechrome their cars? Any pics and advise on where to do it?
Also anyone done 9H glass coat when collect their car? Any recommendation and pricing to share?
No idea and no intention to mod the car. Only thinking of using a better quality and lower viscosity engine oil to save some fuel and get slightly better response.What is your take on adding an after market Engine Oil Cooler ? Ie : HKS, Nishimoto, Perrin, or is there a STi from Subaru ?
Not for tracking, mainly to maintain a lower engine oil temp than the stock set-up, during long drive up north. From the readings, seems like a technical add-on that makes sense. But,this is my 1st Subary boxer turbo, learning from the gurus here.
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Any aftermarket mod to lower engine temp will make the car performs better even in start/stop traffic.
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Not forget to change all the rubber hose to silicon hose.
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how does lower engine oil temp enhance performance?
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shouldn't it be a lower intake temp instead?
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![[dizzy]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_tIYQcciQSmADOZSIZ2_EZhXalmfERH1RK6ri43K0Nx2Wh5eFEMMycNsJ8iGXuRxe0xtUKV6lyuEMWTTG_1AJ0x_qPMDaDXOUb54tft_WjyoyN2G7pCCMKngUFozHnApmSaQwWUOg=s0-d)
Any LTA approved exhaust for XT?
(1) As long as the operating temperature not exceed the engine oil boiling temperature (typical ~125 degree C), it is OK. Am I correct ?how does lower engine oil temp enhance performance?
shouldn't it be a lower intake temp instead?
(2) What are the option to lower intake temperature ?
Thanks bro..i will check him out.. :)I did opti coat with Benny. Can find his contact from this forum under the detailing session. Dunno how many h but only cost me $290 for 2 coats. So far so good. He's a diy detailer btw.
No idea and no intention to mod the car. Only thinking of using a better quality and lower viscosity engine oil to save some fuel and get slightly better response.
Any LTA approved exhaust for XT?
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Following two are approved and available for the XT~�
![[laugh]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_vm8fgnjcrPyIouQg9L9jqpLJJat1BOzaeZAujI4fJ2HiUq5wnElodxo_IM18nLsulxNirv2G9QuB7raLILqxzpvtoOHlxYFFj_L5nOVjTPJwDhTTIBVqS6hOE63V6OF7McTfgi2A=s0-d)
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Invidia Q300
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HKS Legamax Premium
Edited by Cboonh, 19 July 2016 - 04:09 PM.
how does lower engine oil temp enhance performance?
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shouldn't it be a lower intake temp instead?
�
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You are definitely right about intake temp.
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Engine oil, i am not sure.
Hopefully got more to come.Following two are approved and available for the XT~
Invidia Q300
HKS Legamax Premium
(1) As long as the operating temperature not exceed the engine oil boiling temperature (typical ~125 degree C), it is OK. Am I correct ?
(2) What are the option to lower intake temperature ?
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every engine oil has operating temp range. �operating temp should fall within this range.
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CAI but little gain and also many downsides to CAI
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bigger intercooler?
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Edited by Enye, 19 July 2016 - 04:34 PM.
Following two are approved and available for the XT~�
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Invidia Q300
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HKS Legamax Premium
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Where to get it and what's the damage like?
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The Jap Porsches... not bad leh....Are you trying to turn Forester into mini Macan?
Whenever u need to change clutch pack, there are 2 to change hor.
Any aftermarket mod to lower engine temp will make the car performs better even in start/stop traffic.
Not forget to change all the rubber hose to silicon hose.
every engine oil has operating temp range. �operating temp should fall within this range.
�
CAI but little gain and also many downsides to CAI
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bigger intercooler?
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Bigger intercooler + lower temp threshold will help.
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CAI is useless in the city.� It is only useful at high speed on highway.
Bigger intercooler + lower temp threshold will help.
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CAI is useless in the city.� It is only useful at high speed on highway.
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bigger intercooler --> bigger turbo --> free flowing CAI +DP-->tune for higher power---> higher temp�
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then back to bigger intercooler again + oil cooler?
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then upgrade handling and brakes, reduce weight
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wah when will it end?
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Edited by Enye, 19 July 2016 - 04:57 PM.
bigger intercooler --> bigger turbo --> free flowing CAI +DP-->tune for higher power---> higher temp�
�
then back to bigger intercooler again + oil cooler?
�
then upgrade handling and brakes, reduce weight
�
wah when will it end?
�
�
I will stopped at bigger intercooler + lower temp.� With bigger intercooler, thermal efficiency will improve.
�
That's what i have in mind for my mini.
�
�
Edited by Davidtch, 19 July 2016 - 05:03 PM.
HKS at Garage R, Invidia at Driven Performance. Damage close to 2k.Where to get it and what's the damage like?
CAI on turbo car is a waste of time and money. Whatever cold air you intake will be heated up by the compression of the compressor. That's why need intercooler to cool the compress air before going into engine.every engine oil has operating temp range. operating temp should fall within this range.
CAI but little gain and also many downsides to CAI
bigger intercooler?
It's better to mod the intercooler for better cooling or airflow than to do CAI on a turbo car.
Watercooled intercooler anyone?
But bigger intercooler means longer airflow to engine, also means bigger turbo lag.I will stopped at bigger intercooler + lower temp. With bigger intercooler, thermal efficiency will improve.
That's what i have in mind for my mini.
Either we move the intercooler to the front or cut a big hole at the bonnet! Lol
Orr at least have a scoop.
CAI on turbo car is a waste of time and money. Whatever cold air you intake will be heated up by the compression of the compressor. That's why need intercooler to cool the compress air before going into engine.
It's better to mod the intercooler for better cooling or airflow than to do CAI on a turbo car.
Watercooled intercooler anyone?
But bigger intercooler means longer airflow to engine, also means bigger turbo lag.
Either we move the intercooler to the front or cut a big hole at the bonnet! Lol
Orr at least have a scoop.
�
Where is Forester intercooler housed?� Not in front of radiator?
�
Luckily my mini intercooler is housed in front of radiator.� So, can change bigger intercooler?
Not only your mini, my previous Colt turbo is also front mounted. Evo also front mounted.Where is Forester intercooler housed? Not in front of radiator?
Luckily my mini intercooler is housed in front of radiator. So, can change bigger intercooler?
For FXT the intercooler is top mounted. That's subaru's signature position, hence the bonnet scoop for all the previous lineup.
However the FXT is the first in Subaru history not to include a scoop. The air is directed from the grille to the intercooler via a air tunnel on the bonnet. While its adequate in seasonal countries, I have my doubts on its effectiveness in topical weather like ours. The bonnet is scorching hot and how efficient is cold air directed to the intercooler. That's one area I felt we can mod in our FXT. If we can effective cool the compress air I believe we can get more efficient power from the compressor. I'm kinda surprised no Japanese aftermarket makers came out with something. The picture on the one with scoop I posted earlier is fabricated in the Philippines and cost a bomb to import here..and seriously not very nice.
I prefer the WRX scoop design.
Edited by Pocus, 19 July 2016 - 11:00 PM.
CAI on turbo car is a waste of time and money. Whatever cold air you intake will be heated up by the compression of the compressor. That's why need intercooler to cool the compress air before going into engine.
It's better to mod the intercooler for better cooling or airflow than to do CAI on a turbo car.
Watercooled intercooler anyone?
But bigger intercooler means longer airflow to engine, also means bigger turbo lag.
Either we move the intercooler to the front or cut a big hole at the bonnet! Lol
Orr at least have a scoop.
�
�
also:
�
1) water spray for TMIC if don't want FMIC (with extra lag)
�
2) water/meth injection
�
both LTA-friendly but probably not warranty-friendly LOL
Went into Motor Image just now, and sat in the Forrester 2.0 iP.
FC 11km/l.. One test drive .. One round less than 1km can tell its 11km/l.. Sat la u.. Damn Tok kong.. I drive mine for 5,000km and only can "estimate"..
Went into Motor Image just now, and sat in the Forrester 2.0 iP.
For 119k it's a lot of car. You may say it's stodgy but it's serious value for money.
The cabin has a hewn from rock feel, good material usage, with many soft touch surfaces, and the square configuration allows for a wide and usable cabin. There is very impressive legroom at the back, and the fold down mechanism is easy to use.
It's Jap made, good ground clearance and has many nice features.
What's not so nice is the fuel consumption... 11 km /l for the NA version, less for the turbo..
It does present an alternative to the HRV / Civic / Corolla buyers who are looking for more space and a little more go too.
I understand that it was just facelifted in Jan this year too.
Not only your mini, my previous Colt turbo is also front mounted. Evo also front mounted.
For FXT the intercooler is top mounted. That's subaru's signature position, hence the bonnet scoop for all the previous lineup.
However the FXT is the first in Subaru history not to include a scoop. The air is directed from the grille to the intercooler via a air tunnel on the bonnet. While its adequate in seasonal countries, I have my doubts on its effectiveness in topical weather like ours. The bonnet is scorching hot and how efficient is cold air directed to the intercooler. That's one area I felt we can mod in our FXT. If we can effective cool the compress air I believe we can get more efficient power from the compressor. I'm kinda surprised no Japanese aftermarket makers came out with something. The picture on the one with scoop I posted earlier is fabricated in the Philippines and cost a bomb to import here..and seriously not very nice.
I prefer the WRX scoop design.
�
my Leggy even with scoop design also very hot still... it's not a low pressure turbo, I guess it will just be hot.
the lack of scoop is to improve pedestrian safety score... but though one can argue why WRX and Levorg still have it haha...
�
just enjoy it lah, no worries about stuff getting stuck in scoop (like cigarette butts thrown by moronic drivers or just plastic bags / leaves)
bigger intercooler --> bigger turbo --> free flowing CAI +DP-->tune for higher power---> higher temp�
�
then back to bigger intercooler again + oil cooler?
�
then upgrade handling and brakes, reduce weight
�
wah when will it end?
�
�
first thing to end is definitely MI warranty...
My friend ordered the manual base rex and will be get his car in aug/sept. He read that the auto cvt gearbox is quite weak if looking to do up the car.. Lets say up hp to abv 300 and torque to above 400nm.
Can i say the same for FXT CVT gearbox?
Ya fc for the fna and fxt are terrible. A vezel or qq 1.2 turbo or even a vezel hybrid is much better buy. Heard these can hit 15-20km/L easily. Dun buy it just because it looks like a big car and quite value for money. Got to think of the high maintenance cost in long term ownership. Heard that the awd is very complex and cost a lot to repair if spoil too. A vezel or qq wun have this prob.
Went into Motor Image just now, and sat in the Forrester 2.0 iP.
For 119k it's a lot of car. You may say it's stodgy but it's serious value for money.
The cabin has a hewn from rock feel, good material usage, with many soft touch surfaces, and the square configuration allows for a wide and usable cabin. There is very impressive legroom at the back, and the fold down mechanism is easy to use.
It's Jap made, good ground clearance and has many nice features.
What's not so nice is the fuel consumption... 11 km /l for the NA version, less for the turbo..
It does present an alternative to the HRV / Civic / Corolla buyers who are looking for more space and a little more go too.
I understand that it was just facelifted in Jan this year too.
Got to agree that it's a lot of car for the money... And youre also right to point out the less than stellar fuel consumption...
Went into Motor Image just now, and sat in the Forrester 2.0 iP.
For 119k it's a lot of car. You may say it's stodgy but it's serious value for money.
The cabin has a hewn from rock feel, good material usage, with many soft touch surfaces, and the square configuration allows for a wide and usable cabin. There is very impressive legroom at the back, and the fold down mechanism is easy to use.
It's Jap made, good ground clearance and has many nice features.
What's not so nice is the fuel consumption... 11 km /l for the NA version, less for the turbo..
It does present an alternative to the HRV / Civic / Corolla buyers who are looking for more space and a little more go too.
I understand that it was just facelifted in Jan this year too.
But it doesnt stop there... The car is just so zhng-able. It seems to cast a spell on its owner... Compelling the owner to keep spending.. Buy this... Add that... You need this... Give me that...
You've been warned.
Also took the plunge to do 4 door sound proof using 3m for $680... See how it goes..
Do share ur reviews after the door sound proofing..thxSent in for 5k servicing today. They told me 5k Can still use shell oil since it's free and only using it for another 5k. 10k onwards can choose mirt 5w40 at $17+ or motul 300v 5w40 racing for $70+. The 300v sounds like good deal.
Also took the plunge to do 4 door sound proof using 3m for $680... See how it goes..
Sent in for 5k servicing today. They told me 5k Can still use shell oil since it's free and only using it for another 5k. 10k onwards can choose mirt 5w40 at $17+ or motul 300v 5w40 racing for $70+. The 300v sounds like good deal.
Also took the plunge to do 4 door sound proof using 3m for $680... See how it goes..
is tht the top up price/litre? any 5w30 mirt or motul?
Edited by BenTong, 21 July 2016 - 10:17 AM.
Actually anyone did Stage 1/2 for their FXT yet? The CVT gearbox can take it? What is the weakest link which limits the increment in power?
My friend ordered the manual base rex and will be get his car in aug/sept. He read that the auto cvt gearbox is quite weak if looking to do up the car.. Lets say up hp to abv 300 and torque to above 400nm.
Can i say the same for FXT CVT gearbox?
�
Correct me if i am wrong but I think the WRX uses the same CVT gearbox as FXT just that ratio might be different. So if WRX gearbox can take upward tuning..I believe its the same for FXT CVT gearbox.�
�
By the way, care to share where to do stage 1/2? What's in stage 1/2? ��
first thing to end is definitely MI warranty...
�
no...wallet first
�
Correct me if i am wrong but I think the WRX uses the same CVT gearbox as FXT just that ratio might be different. So if WRX gearbox can take upward tuning..I believe its the same for FXT CVT gearbox.�
�
By the way, care to share where to do stage 1/2? What's in stage 1/2? ��
�
Stage 1 - Air intake, exhaust, intercooler, custom mapping
�
https://www.torqueca...ning-stages.php
�
�
as to where to do... i think the usual Subaru specialist workshop (BKS / BMS) should be able to do ba
Edited by Rayoflight, 21 July 2016 - 10:57 AM.
Actually anyone did Stage 1/2 for their FXT yet? The CVT gearbox can take it? What is the weakest link which limits the increment in power?
My friend ordered the manual base rex and will be get his car in aug/sept. He read that the auto cvt gearbox is quite weak if looking to do up the car.. Lets say up hp to abv 300 and torque to above 400nm.
Can i say the same for FXT CVT gearbox?
�
No owner will reply to you on this topics on a open forum..
Ya fc for the fna and fxt are terrible. A vezel or qq 1.2 turbo or even a vezel hybrid is much better buy. Heard these can hit 15-20km/L easily. Dun buy it just because it looks like a big car and quite value for money. Got to think of the high maintenance cost in long term ownership. Heard that the awd is very complex and cost a lot to repair if spoil too. A vezel or qq wun have this prob.
�
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Sent in for 5k servicing today. They told me 5k Can still use shell oil since it's free and only using it for another 5k. 10k onwards can choose mirt 5w40 at $17+ or motul 300v 5w40 racing for $70+. The 300v sounds like good deal.
Also took the plunge to do 4 door sound proof using 3m for $680... See how it goes..
�
How many layer they put?
Please update the results of the sound proofing. Thanks.
Total top up price. The mirt 5w30 top up is very value for money. 300v top up for $70+ is a steal too. I'll probably take 300v for my 10k servicing.is tht the top up price/litre? any 5w30 mirt or motul?
Mirt and 300v only available at 5w40. They say 5w40 is necessary for boxer turbo coz of our climate and it can reduce engine oil consumption. 5w30 for non turbo boxer. 5w30 they have motul hitec plus. But that one is for legacy and fna.
Thanks man!!Total top up price. The mirt 5w30 top up is very value for money. 300v top up for $70+ is a steal too. I'll probably take 300v for my 10k servicing.
Mirt and 300v only available at 5w40. They say 5w40 is necessary for boxer turbo coz of our climate and it can reduce engine oil consumption. 5w30 for non turbo boxer. 5w30 they have motul hitec plus. But that one is for legacy and fna.
No owner will reply to you on this topics on a open forum..
�
�
modding car legally is also wrong? pai sey meh? haha
�
All those i mentioned are very small mods only leh
The feeling is kinda different when say I try to make a fast turn from stop, where I still experience quite a lot of body roll.
Edited by mrhan1982, 21 July 2016 - 12:25 PM.
Total top up price. The mirt 5w30 top up is very value for money. 300v top up for $70+ is a steal too. I'll probably take 300v for my 10k servicing.
Mirt and 300v only available at 5w40. They say 5w40 is necessary for boxer turbo coz of our climate and it can reduce engine oil consumption. 5w30 for non turbo boxer. 5w30 they have motul hitec plus. But that one is for legacy and fna.
So MI are more expert than Subaru engineer that design this engine. You believe them. They just want to max out their profit lah.
It's just a fraction of what you paid to mi to do.
It's rather easy for door and I did 2 layer on them. Took me only 2-3hrs.
I also used to think that 5w40 oils are not necessary in our climate until I experienced oil leaks in some of the seals when using thinner oils in the past. Used to try various kinds of oils at 30 weights on a few Jap makes, all end up with some oil leaks problems in engine bay. The whole intention of using lighter oils was getting better fc and better throttle response. Yes u do get those benefits, but very marginally. A high quality 40 weight oil will still give u the same or better performance as a 30 weight oil.So MI are more expert than Subaru engineer that design this engine. You believe them. They just want to max out their profit lah.
Nvm la, this time round I'll be good and believe in them. I doubt they can profit much if they charge $17+ more their mirt oil top up, or even $70+ for 300v top up. It's actually more expensive for me to buy 5L of 300v and pass to them.
Will install soon! Stock film only good at cutting out 99% of the UV but quite hopeless in cutting the heat. Sometimes used it together with the laser shades still can feel a bit of heat.
Tohto is right! The Zen film is good and probably the cheapest i have heard for Forester. Beat the crap out of stock film
�
Good results? Foam type or rubber type? Tot of doing it myself by buying from Amazon too. But scared if I screw up then door panels start to creak or squeak then sian Liao. Hence I end up paying MI to fit 3m panel. anything wrong I can still find MI. Lol I also scared to screw up my hk writings which are inside the door panels.I done my own 4 door sound proof using material bought off tb.
It's just a fraction of what you paid to mi to do.
It's rather easy for door and I did 2 layer on them. Took me only 2-3hrs.
Should be one bah. All lot of bros here waiting for my feedback on 4 door sound proof. Heheh.
I took grabcar from tpy to Pahang street this morning. Came a Altis (last gen) I was surprise at how noisy and uncomfortable it was! Didn't realised the forester was so quiet... The 1.6L Altis engine was noisy and struggling to keep up with traffic. Well with an additional 100kg (me..), I can't blame it...
Then I took grabcar again from Pahang street to tampines. This time came a Camry 2L (also last gen). The pick up was noticeable better than the Altis, and less noisy. But road noise was quite apparent. When it was traveling in the kpe tunnel towards Bartley exit I could feel all the bumps as the car was bouncing like a boat ( typical Toyota soft suspension) and it wasn't quite a good experience. Uncle tried to make a right turn a little faster and I could really feel the body roll. Almost like 1 wheel is floating in the air. Hmm, wasn't quite wat I expected after hearing all the good reviews of the Camry. It couldn't handle uneven roads well and sound insulation wasn't too good either.
then I realised that the forester is indeed a good car. Haa
�
Aren't those old 8-9+ year cars that you are comparing with ?
Most of the time the suspension and engines are not maintained very well also.�
Bro, raining season now, try not to exceed the tyres grip, and to corner safe safe.I realised that the forester is very smart when comes to negotiating bends at higher speeds (70-90/km/h) especially when u turn the steering towards the direction of the bend just before u enter the bend. U will feel very little body roll and the car just cruise around the bend confortably without having to apply too much brake. Is this the active torque vectoring at work?
The feeling is kinda different when say I try to make a fast turn from stop, where I still experience quite a lot of body roll.
On the bright side, a little body roll is good to exercise and to warm-up our hips before reaching home safely ... :)
I also used to think that 5w40 oils are not necessary in our climate until I experienced oil leaks in some of the seals when using thinner oils in the past. Used to try various kinds of oils at 30 weights on a few Jap makes, all end up with some oil leaks problems in engine bay. The whole intention of using lighter oils was getting better fc and better throttle response. Yes u do get those benefits, but very marginally. A high quality 40 weight oil will still give u the same or better performance as a 30 weight oil.
Nvm la, this time round I'll be good and believe in them. I doubt they can profit much if they charge $17+ more their mirt oil top up, or even $70+ for 300v top up. It's actually more expensive for me to buy 5L of 300v and pass to them.
�
I am not sure which 30wt oil you used.� I used red line 30wt on Nissan Sunny which makes the car livelier.
�
Nowadays, engine is designed for 20wt or 30wt.� Don't use anything thicker.
Seems like an impressive DIY. Got video or life streaming ?I done my own 4 door sound proof using material bought off tb.
It's just a fraction of what you paid to mi to do.
It's rather easy for door and I did 2 layer on them. Took me only 2-3hrs.
If done on Forester XT, mind to help out Bros here ? Ie : tools needed, what to watch out for ? Etc.
Tried 30 weights oil from Mobil, royal purple mainly in the pastI am not sure which 30wt oil you used. I used red line 30wt on Nissan Sunny which makes the car livelier.
Nowadays, engine is designed for 20wt or 30wt. Don't use anything thicker.
Nah the tires are fine. No screeching yet. Haa. Despite being all rounded suv tires these bridge stones grip pretty well.Bro, raining season now, try not to exceed the tyres grip, and to corner safe safe.
On the bright side, a little body roll is good to exercise and to warm-up our hips before reaching home safely ... :)
Tried 30 weights oil from Mobil, royal purple mainly in the past
�
Royal purple does not have good reputation le.
�
Mobil 1 5-30 will be like light weight 0-40.
Should be one bah. All lot of bros here waiting for my feedback on 4 door sound proof. Heheh.
�
Single layer. MI can't confirm the exact model of the material used (which makes me shake my head), but I believe it's this one, based on me holding a sample of the material, and comparing it against the product photo:�http://3mcollision.c...-pad-08840.html. 1.78mm thick, bitumen-based.
5w30 they have motul hitec plus. But that one is for legacy and fna.
�
They also offer Motul H-Tech 100 Plus in 0W20, which is the grade recommended in the Legacy/OB manual.
Used to try various kinds of oils at 30 weights on a few Jap makes, all end up with some oil leaks problems in engine bay.
�
You've had oil leaks with every single engine you've used 5W30 (or 10W30, or straight 30) in? At roughly what mileage, please?
�
I still suspect that the main reason MI pushes us to use heavier oils than are recommended for Subarus everywhere else in the world (including deserts!) is to disguise any excessive engine oil consumption stemming from engine design flaws. You all may have read about the class action suit in the US that Subaru lost earlier this year, thereby essentially admitting that excessive oil consumption is due to Subaru's engine design. Thicker oil is simply consumed more slowly, thereby disguising the flaw. Combined with our shorter �servicing intervals in Singapore, even defective engines may not manifest their excessive oil consumption, thereby saving MI trouble (not $, because Subaru should cover the cost of short block replacement). But nothing I've read indicates that less viscous oil causes excessive oil consumption. It merely manifests a problem more obviously. And if that happens within a warranty period, I say faster manifest lagi better. Then MI must fix. Perhaps we shouldn't confuse causes and symptoms. Then again, I'm not an engineer, so what do I know?
Edited by Muser, 21 July 2016 - 02:47 PM.
I recall reading about it, i seems to recall the USA case is associated with the 2.5L engine (non-turbo), different than XT 2.0 DIT.Single layer. MI can't confirm the exact model of the material used (which makes me shake my head), but I believe it's this one, based on me holding a sample of the material, and comparing it against the product photo: http://3mcollision.c...-pad-08840.html. 1.78mm thick, bitumen-based.
They also offer Motul H-Tech 100 Plus in 0W20, which is the grade recommended in the Legacy/OB manual.
You've had oil leaks with every single engine you've used 5W30 (or 10W30, or straight 30) in? At roughly what mileage, please?
I still suspect that the main reason MI pushes us to use heavier oils than are recommended for Subarus everywhere else in the world (including deserts!) is to disguise any excessive engine oil consumption stemming from engine design flaws. You all may have read about the class action suit in the US that Subaru lost earlier this year, thereby essentially admitting that excessive oil consumption is due to Subaru's engine design. Thicker oil is simply consumed more slowly, thereby disguising the flaw. Combined with our shorter servicing intervals in Singapore, even defective engines may not manifest their excessive oil consumption, thereby saving MI trouble (not $, because Subaru should cover the cost of short block replacement). But nothing I've read indicates that less viscous oil causes excessive oil consumption. It merely manifests a problem more obviously. And if that happens within a warranty period, I say faster manifest lagi better. Then MI must fix. Perhaps we shouldn't confuse causes and symptoms. Then again, I'm not an engineer, so what do I know?
Aiyah, just enjoy the warranty for now ... in case any oil leak/consumption issue, will likely notice it within the 5-year/100,000km.
I recall reading about it, i seems to recall the USA case is associated with the 2.5L engine (non-turbo), different than XT 2.0 DIT.
Aiyah, just enjoy the warranty for now ... in case any oil leak/consumption issue, will likely notice it within the 5-year/100,000km.
�
Yes, the US case focused on the 2.5NA engine in the current OB & Legacy (my engine). But my point is, if none of the other Subaru engines have the same defect, why so kiasu with thick oils? What's MI so scared of?
�
Yes, the hope is that excessive oil consumption will be noticed within our warranty period... unless we dump thick enough engine oil in the engine such that - coupled with short servicing intervals - the problem is masked until after the warranty's up.
Royal purple is pure evil. It's super silky smooth and u can really feel the improved response. Only thing is after 2 oil change, some of the seals start to leak lol.Royal purple does not have good reputation le.
Mobil 1 5-30 will be like light weight 0-40.
Mobil 5w30 feels light than the Mobil gold 0w40. 0w40 feels very sluggish, similar to shell helix.
Hi bro, the 3m material is the one u highlighted. Just collected my car at tpy. Knock on the dirt and feel like it's more solid, minimal hollow sound. Sounds like my friend's 320, though door still not as heavier.Single layer. MI can't confirm the exact model of the material used (which makes me shake my head), but I believe it's this one, based on me holding a sample of the material, and comparing it against the product photo: http://3mcollision.c...-pad-08840.html. 1.78mm thick, bitumen-based.
They also offer Motul H-Tech 100 Plus in 0W20, which is the grade recommended in the Legacy/OB manual.
You've had oil leaks with every single engine you've used 5W30 (or 10W30, or straight 30) in? At roughly what mileage, please?
I still suspect that the main reason MI pushes us to use heavier oils than are recommended for Subarus everywhere else in the world (including deserts!) is to disguise any excessive engine oil consumption stemming from engine design flaws. You all may have read about the class action suit in the US that Subaru lost earlier this year, thereby essentially admitting that excessive oil consumption is due to Subaru's engine design. Thicker oil is simply consumed more slowly, thereby disguising the flaw. Combined with our shorter servicing intervals in Singapore, even defective engines may not manifest their excessive oil consumption, thereby saving MI trouble (not $, because Subaru should cover the cost of short block replacement). But nothing I've read indicates that less viscous oil causes excessive oil consumption. It merely manifests a problem more obviously. And if that happens within a warranty period, I say faster manifest lagi better. Then MI must fix. Perhaps we shouldn't confuse causes and symptoms. Then again, I'm not an engineer, so what do I know?
The 3m material itself dun look very convincing as it's quite thin and they only put single layer. Normally outside workshop recommend stp material of various grade and show u how thick it is, etc... But those are the foam types which are similar to the $580 package from clasani which mI offers.
Anyway, I drove back home taking pie towards changi, then go into kpe and exit Bartley with both music off and on.
The verdict is... This shit really works!!! Can hear improvement in sound quality! When music off, wind noise is very much reduced at 100km/h. I tried very hard to hear wind noise at 100km/h but could hardly detect any. Of course road noise sound the same to me and I already have clasani undercarriage coating. For $680 (minus $100 coz I use duo points) I think it's quite worth it. The 3m material is good quality and can withstand high heat so it wun melt. I've checked all 4 doors panels and the workmanship was flawless. All 4 doors now close with a nicer thud. So to me it's quite worthwhile investment. Best part is my hk sound system now sound better.
Regarding the engine oil leak. I've tried 5w30 (Mobil and Royal purple) on 1 Altis and 1 civic fd1. Both at about 80k mileage. Engine oil consumption is normal actually as long as the quantity is small. Most continental cars consume engine oil like siao after 5 years old. Lol... Motul 300v 5w40 will be my next choice for 10k service.
Edited by mrhan1982, 21 July 2016 - 05:12 PM.
At tpy, I also saw quite a few previous gen 2.5T forester. Heard 1 auntie went through her servicing jobs for her 2.5T like no major things to change and the car seems to be running great. It's about 100k mileage and around 6 yrs old. Subaru cars are quite hardy I think. HaaYes, the US case focused on the 2.5NA engine in the current OB & Legacy (my engine). But my point is, if none of the other Subaru engines have the same defect, why so kiasu with thick oils? What's MI so scared of?
Yes, the hope is that excessive oil consumption will be noticed within our warranty period... unless we dump thick enough engine oil in the engine such that - coupled with short servicing intervals - the problem is masked until after the warranty's up.
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