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Hi all Forester bros here. I'm a 2015 XV owner, allow me to give my view on the MI's own in-house AutoTint film.

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Honestly speaking, I would suggest just take the in-house film if given as a freebie. � I feel the film is adequate enough. �The main aim is to prevent short term heat built-up, under the sun right? � If left for longer than 30mins, there will not be much differences between the various films in the market. � It will be hot !

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My workplace car park is without shelter and seriously I do not feel any differences with the film and other films which I tried on the previous cars I owned.

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So, save the money and spend it on other mods, I would say. � Those vertical LED DRL are exceptionally nice�

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On the topic of MI service, it is quite ok for me too, just go in with a realistic expectation (still a b&b brand afterall). � One good thing is the MI service is not too difficult to book (no long waiting queue compare to other popular brands) �

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Just my 2 little cents.

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Cheers, and enjoy your new ride !

I feel the�MI in-house film is not dark enough, no privacy

I feel the�MI in-house film is not dark enough, no privacy

Wah .. wat you going to do inside that you need some much privacy heee... need better suspensions so that the car wont shake too hard?

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Don't know what to bargain. Let Sale Rep do everything. They bid $57,600 for me. I find this amount is on the low side. Maybe they don't have the stock so delay my bid.� That's what I feel.

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The previous COE results was 65K + and MI bidded just 57600? Isnt it unfair for the buyers who bought based to 65K+ results.�

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The previous COE results was 65K + and MI bidded just 57600? Isnt it unfair for the buyers who bought based to 65K+ results.�

no.. I believe they have some thing like how many bids .. so as long as they give you within that number of bids. this is something like hatching.. and maybe they can make more..

Yes, it is without guaranteed COE.

Lucky to have gotton it on the first bid.

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Several Bros who booked XT (turbo) didnt get their COE last Wed.

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Standard freebies includes Solar film, floor mat. Nothing much actually.

what you see is what you get on the showroom car.

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Thanks bro :-)

Anyone knows what's the current price for FXT?�

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SGCarmart and Subaru website haven't seem to update the new pricing yet.

Hi all Forester bros here. I'm a 2015 XV owner, allow me to give my view on the MI's own in-house AutoTint film.

�

Honestly speaking, I would suggest just take the in-house film if given as a freebie. � I feel the film is adequate enough. �The main aim is to prevent short term heat built-up, under the sun right? � If left for longer than 30mins, there will not be much differences between the various films in the market. � It will be hot !

�

My workplace car park is without shelter and seriously I do not feel any differences with the film and other films which I tried on the previous cars I owned.

�

So, save the money and spend it on other mods, I would say. � Those vertical LED DRL are exceptionally nice�

�

On the topic of MI service, it is quite ok for me too, just go in with a realistic expectation (still a b&b brand afterall). � One good thing is the MI service is not too difficult to book (no long waiting queue compare to other popular brands) �

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Just my 2 little cents.

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Cheers, and enjoy your new ride !

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What things (coating, accessories etc) did you do when you got your new car?

Those vertical LED DRL are exceptionally nice�

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Cheers, and enjoy your new ride !

I agree with you that the LED DRL are nice. Saw it on some forester youtube clips. I am just wondering if it will be LTA compliance?

P.S. I am not a forester owner, but potentially...

Bascially MI is not hard up for premium sales and is now pushing for XT sales.

MI wants to make last week premium buyer feel better that despite the falling of COE price, the car price has increased.

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Great, Subaru is a brand, either you love it or hate it. �

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haha....true.

and once love it...its always subaru all the way.... :p

All the bro and sis here who got the XT, care to share the real life fuel consumption?

All the bro and sis here who got the XT, care to share the real life fuel consumption?

subject to drive pattern, my experience

50/50 urban/expressway, 10km/l

30/70 urban/expressway, 12km/l

100% expressway, 15km/l

100% unban, 8km/l

subject to drive pattern, my experience
50/50 urban/expressway, 10km/l
30/70 urban/expressway, 12km/l
100% expressway, 15km/l
100% unban, 8km/l

This is base on FC meter or manual calculation

This is base on FC meter or manual calculation

FC meter

FC meter

It look too optimistic for a AWD 2.0 turbo car.

It look too optimistic for a AWD 2.0 turbo car.

Well if you look at the testdrive Forester's FC, it's registered at 16l/100km. That is translated to about 6km/l!

I think that's the worst FC you can ever get on the Forester on local roads, considering the test drive car is 101% urban, short distance per trip and 70% on S or S# mode and extremely heavy footed.

Is that really bad?

Well, the Honda HRV's test car is registering 7.5km/l.

For a 2.0 turbo it's not too bad.

Well if you look at the testdrive Forester's FC, it's registered at 16l/100km. That is translated to about 6km/l!

I think that's the worst FC you can ever get on the Forester on local roads, considering the test drive car is 101% urban, short distance per trip and 70% on S or S# mode and extremely heavy footed.

Is that really bad?

Well, the Honda HRV's test car is registering 7.5km/l.

For a 2.0 turbo it's not too bad.

That is very true. During my test drive, I was extremely heavy foot on the S & S# mode.
I believe If I bought this car, most of the time during city driving I will be using i mode. Only at night or expressway than use sport mode.

Was supposedly going to C&C to look at the new outlander today since the brochure i received states a 20k discount but for some reason I couldn't find the showroom(saw mercs one though)... Anyway while crawling down leng kee road and screening the building names, the security at Mazda ushered me in to park.

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So I went in and checked out the Mz6. I must say the interiors of the 2.5 luxury and wagon is wicked. However the place is a like a fish market...It was cramp, warm, crowded with lots of customers and lots of salesmen, and 3 recepts who couldn't bother to entertain my questions on what were the difference between the 5 types of Mz6; printed out a piece of black and white paper with the differences and asked me to read myself.

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Since Subaru is next door i walked over and checked out the turbo forester. It was totally opposite like heaven and hell.. The place was large, had high ceilng, Cool (freezing actually in the children playroom) and very empty. The staff were practically slapping mozzies. The salesmen automatically gave me a full thick colored "book" brochure on forester and a pricelist even without me asking. After hopping over from mazda and looking at subaru I think I know why. The interior designer of subaru ought to be shot..Sorry, honest opinion, it was a pity, the HMI is wtf and center console is a plasticky duh. The steering wheel is pretty ok though as I like lots of buttons/controls on it.

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BUT...the price is ~128K . $16K bucks cheaper than the Mz6. I like space, compared to Mz6, it had lots of them. I can already imagine myself going on extended road trips or trailing through the oil palm plantations(wont happen haha) at our next door neighbour in this SUV and it was very very tempting. Must..Endure....

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I wonder if the COE would drop further in Aug? Does anyone know the estimates base on scrap from now till next CNY? Usually CNY week the COE would be like a 52wk low right?�

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Side-note to self, I would still need to check out the outlander. Since that has 7 seats, I wont need another taxi to bring both parents and inlaws + child out. �

Was supposedly going to C&C to look at the new outlander today since the brochure i received states a 20k discount but for some reason I couldn't find the showroom(saw mercs one though)... Anyway while crawling down leng kee road and screening the building names, the security at Mazda ushered me in to park.
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So I went in and checked out the Mz6. I must say the interiors of the 2.5 luxury and wagon is wicked. However the place is a like a fish market...It was cramp, warm, crowded with lots of customers and lots of salesmen, and 3 recepts who couldn't bother to entertain my questions on what were the difference between the 5 types of Mz6; printed out a piece of black and white paper with the differences and asked me to read myself.
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Since Subaru is next door i walked over and checked out the turbo forester. It was totally opposite like heaven and hell.. The place was large, had high ceilng, Cool (freezing actually in the children playroom) and very empty. The staff were practically slapping mozzies. The salesmen automatically gave me a full thick colored "book" brochure on forester and a pricelist even without me asking. After hopping over from mazda and looking at subaru I think I know why. The interior designer of subaru ought to be shot..Sorry, honest opinion, it was a pity, the HMI is wtf and center console is a plasticky duh. The steering wheel is pretty ok though as I like lots of buttons/controls on it.
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BUT...the price is ~128K . $16K bucks cheaper than the Mz6. I like space, compared to Mz6, it had lots of them. I can already imagine myself going on extended road trips or trailing through the oil palm plantations(wont happen haha) at our next door neighbour in this SUV and it was very very tempting. Must..Endure....
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I wonder if the COE would drop further in Aug? Does anyone know the estimates base on scrap from now till next CNY? Usually CNY week the COE would be like a 52wk low right?�
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Side-note to self, I would still need to check out the outlander. Since that has 7 seats, I wont need another taxi to bring both parents and inlaws + child out. �

So did you test drive?

Was supposedly going to C&C to look at the new outlander today since the brochure i received states a 20k discount but for some reason I couldn't find the showroom(saw mercs one though)... Anyway while crawling down leng kee road and screening the building names, the security at Mazda ushered me in to park.
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So I went in and checked out the Mz6. I must say the interiors of the 2.5 luxury and wagon is wicked. However the place is a like a fish market...It was cramp, warm, crowded with lots of customers and lots of salesmen, and 3 recepts who couldn't bother to entertain my questions on what were the difference between the 5 types of Mz6; printed out a piece of black and white paper with the differences and asked me to read myself.
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Since Subaru is next door i walked over and checked out the turbo forester. It was totally opposite like heaven and hell.. The place was large, had high ceilng, Cool (freezing actually in the children playroom) and very empty. The staff were practically slapping mozzies. The salesmen automatically gave me a full thick colored "book" brochure on forester and a pricelist even without me asking. After hopping over from mazda and looking at subaru I think I know why. The interior designer of subaru ought to be shot..Sorry, honest opinion, it was a pity, the HMI is wtf and center console is a plasticky duh. The steering wheel is pretty ok though as I like lots of buttons/controls on it.
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BUT...the price is ~128K . $16K bucks cheaper than the Mz6. I like space, compared to Mz6, it had lots of them. I can already imagine myself going on extended road trips or trailing through the oil palm plantations(wont happen haha) at our next door neighbour in this SUV and it was very very tempting. Must..Endure....
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I wonder if the COE would drop further in Aug? Does anyone know the estimates base on scrap from now till next CNY? Usually CNY week the COE would be like a 52wk low right?�
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Side-note to self, I would still need to check out the outlander. Since that has 7 seats, I wont need another taxi to bring both parents and inlaws + child out. �

For C&C you are in the wrong lane, it's the same building as Kia and Citroen, same road as volvo, Honda, Hyundai and VW.

I agree Mazda cars are nice. They have been dominating the looks dept since a decade ago in Japanese brands when they roll out the 1st gen Mazda 6.

My very first shopping since last year is to look at Mazda 3 2.0, it's a decent ride and quite perky for the 2.0 engine, but was put off by the overly aggressive SE and attitude of the staff. 11mths later I visited the lengkee showroom to look at the CX5, same attitude as you, the 3 fulushou see me like glass that the showroom is not even crowded that time. Ok another story for another day.

Unlike you, I already have a different expectation from Subaru. Since the 90s their cars are not built to win beauty pageants, I expect no difference in the new lineup. Subaru's Selling point is the driving experience rather than styling. It give a manly rugged feel and will attract a niche group of buyers. The drive is more spirited and feels more in control given it's WRC heritage.

So there you go, like one of the bros put it, Subaru, you either love it or hate it.

This is how a Forester XT should be modded, quad exhaust!!

I really dig the top tray.

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Too bad crashbars are not legal here...

This guy downsize his rims for offroad prep.

Edited by Pocus, 26 July 2015 - 02:40 PM.

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This is how a Forester XT should be modded, quad exhaust!!

I really dig the top tray.

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Too bad crashbars are not legal here...

This guy downsize his rims for offroad prep.

wah! very aggressive lah [thumbsup]

don't understand why crash bar illegal here? Saw some Pajero and Jeep got crash bars

buying a subaru is all about the drive and power, NA not included though.

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if only the designer put more effort tin the interior design.

So did you test drive?

No leh, havent reach the stage to test drive. Have not been looking at cars for the past 8 years. So quite out of touch with current tech and pricing. At this stage of shortlisting is just visual and price.

When i shortlist till left 2 or 3 then will test drive. Intention to change car after 2016 CNY.

Edited by Friedpiggy, 26 July 2015 - 05:42 PM.

Clarion Smart-Access Head Units in 2015 Outback and Legacy

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Looks like the HU on the Forester is a scaled down version of the US Outback & Legacy models. Looks the same as the Singapore set except it does not have <Navigation> and can't install <Apps>

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But at least its from Clarion and not some unknown OEM ......

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http://www.subarufor...-legacy-369554/

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Attached Thumbnails

Edited by Cosmicclaw, 26 July 2015 - 10:06 PM.

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I am not sure about that when they consciously�bidded almost $5k lower for XT compare to the non-turbo version and�now lower XT list price by $5k...

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I am one of the XT buyers who didn't secure the coe 2 days ago.

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FYI, �i replaced my wife's 4yo Altis with the latest Impreza last Oct. �We did not secure the COE till the 5th bidding. By then, the COE went up by 4K plus in Dec 2014.

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FYI, �i replaced my wife's 4yo Altis with the latest Impreza last Oct. �We did not secure the COE till the 5th bidding. By then, the COE went up by 4K plus in Dec 2014.

bro, in such high COE period, everyone try to squeeze COE value to last day,

don't understand why you replaced only�4 years Altis by non-impressive Impreza, in term of FC, engine response, resale value all lost to Altis?

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FYI, �i replaced my wife's 4yo Altis with the latest Impreza last Oct. �We did not secure the COE till the 5th bidding. By then, the COE went up by 4K plus in Dec 2014.

That's because the COE is going uptrend that time, MI that time is most probably playing the waiting game to cut their losses by waiting for COE to soften. In the end no choice when COE didn't show sign of softening. That is understandable.

This rnd the COE is less by 5k and set to drop further in coming months. It's no excuse not to secure when COE is so low. It gives the impression that the dealers is up to some dirty tricks or trying to maximize profits.

bro, in such high COE period, everyone try to squeeze COE value to last day,

don't understand why you replaced only�4 years Altis by non-impressive Impreza, in term of FC, engine response, resale value all lost to Altis?

bro, there are always several reasons behind every decision.�

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1) Bought the Altis Elegance model new 4years ago at 72K with COE at 30K, Sold it at 67.5k after 4 years plus of usage.�

2) Initial plan was to replace with the latest Altis .8k. �However, don't have the black interior we wanted on white exterior. Hence, check out the XV and Impreza. �Wife enjoys driving my XT and would love to placement with the XV. �Unfortunately, it was very bare and price 10k below Altis. �Took the impreza out for test drive and the price was exactly 20K cheaper than Altis with 5 years warranty and 5 years serving package.�

3) The Impreza is stable in high speed as well as taking high speed corner. �(have to trade-off with the FC and slower pick-up due to the weight)�

4) It will be safer should my elder son start driving next year in the impreza rather than Altis.�

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Hence, we selected Impreza over Altis, XV and Mazda 3.�

bro, there are always several reasons behind every decision.�
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1) Bought the Altis Elegance model new 4years ago at 72K with COE at 30K, Sold it at 67.5k after 4 years plus of usage.�
2) Initial plan was to replace with the latest Altis .8k. �However, don't have the black interior we wanted on white exterior. Hence, check out the XV and Impreza. �Wife enjoys driving my XT and would love to placement with the XV. �Unfortunately, it was very bare and price 10k below Altis. �Took the impreza out for test drive and the price was exactly 20K cheaper than Altis with 5 years warranty and 5 years serving package.�
3) The Impreza is stable in high speed as well as taking high speed corner. �(have to trade-off with the FC and slower pick-up due to the weight)�
4) It will be safer should my elder son start driving next year in the impreza rather than Altis.�
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Hence, we selected Impreza over Altis, XV and Mazda 3.�

Your XT is the current version(SJ) or the previous version?(SH)

What is your take so far?

Edited by Pocus, 27 July 2015 - 11:11 AM.

Hi,

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Questions from me, please pardon me if I ask stupid questions.

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1) If we keep the rpm below 2000 which the peak torque will kick in, will it save fuel?

Some said to accelerate it to cruising speed early so gear will reach the smaller ratio faster and engine will work less harder, thus, save fuel.

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2) As long as we keep rpm away from boost, it should work like a NA engine, thus saving fuel?

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I am keen on the XT version but do not want to buy another car that gives only 7-8km/L. My current 2L ride is very heavy in city driving though most cars will be around the same.

Your XT is the current version(SJ) or the previous version?(SH)

What is your take so far?

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Mine is the current version. As mentioned previously, overall it is a well all round SUV and I managed to clock an avg of 12.5km/ ltr base on 90%expressway. �However, also mentioned, the power rear gate is disappointing as it is retarded. Also, �If you pick up your passenger �and has something to load into the trunk, you need to shift the gear level into "P" before activating the button. �Nothing will happen if your gear level in "D, N or R" except P mode.

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With the current pricing, would suggest requesting more freebies from your SE. �Beside the 5 years service package, the usual carmat and solar film, they should include front and rear cam as per last year promotion.�

Hi,

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Questions from me, please pardon me if I ask stupid questions.

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1) If we keep the rpm below 2000 which the peak torque will kick in, will it save fuel?

Some said to accelerate it to cruising speed early so gear will reach the smaller ratio faster and engine will work less harder, thus, save fuel.

�

2) As long as we keep rpm away from boost, it should work like a NA engine, thus saving fuel?

�

I am keen on the XT version but do not want to buy another car that gives only 7-8km/L. My current 2L ride is very heavy in city driving though most cars will be around the same.

honestly speaking, if you so care of FC, better keep away from Subaru, my experience if 100% urban driving condition, XT only can achieve 8km+-/L, subject to traffic condition and travel distance, if off AC, maybe got 10 to 20% better,

actually in current market you hard to find a 2.0L car can achieve above 10km/l in such congestion urban driving,

those low cc Jap car such as Vezel, Qashiqa got very good FC feedback

Edited by Quantum, 27 July 2015 - 11:55 AM.

honestly speaking, if you so care of FC, better keep away from Subaru, my experience if 100% urban driving condition, XT only can achieve 8km+-/L, subject to traffic condition and travel distance, if off AC, maybe got 10 to 20% better,

actually in current market you hard to find a 2.0L car can achieve above 10km/l in such congestion urban driving,

those low cc Jap car such as Vezel, Qashiqa got very good FC feedback

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Hi Quantum,

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I agreed with you. Power / Fuel, can only choose one.

8+ is not too bad a figure given the power output.

An urban car that saves is probably prius or EV (not in singapore context now).

But i have to admit that my company actually pays for my fuel bill, but still....

Hi,

�

Questions from me, please pardon me if I ask stupid questions.

�

1) If we keep the rpm below 2000 which the peak torque will kick in, will it save fuel?

Some said to accelerate it to cruising speed early so gear will reach the smaller ratio faster and engine will work less harder, thus, save fuel.

�

2) As long as we keep rpm away from boost, it should work like a NA engine, thus saving fuel?

�

I am keen on the XT version but do not want to buy another car that gives only 7-8km/L. My current 2L ride is very heavy in city driving though most cars will be around the same.

�

If you are keeping the rpm below 2000rpm, you are overly light foot. You will never enjoy this car.

This car are not suitable for you..

1) If we keep the rpm below 2000 which the peak torque will kick in, will it save fuel?

Some said to accelerate it to cruising speed early so gear will reach the smaller ratio faster and engine will work less harder, thus, save fuel.

�

2) As long as we keep rpm away from boost, it should work like a NA engine, thus saving fuel?

�

I am keen on the XT version but do not want to buy another car that gives only 7-8km/L. My current 2L ride is very heavy in city driving though most cars will be around the same.

�

Driving with a light foot will always save fuel, whether with a TC or NA engine.. If you want to monitor, there is a boost gauge on the display - if you don't boost often it won't burn too much fuel. Hard to estimate what fuel consumption you will get without knowing your driving mix and habits.

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With my Forester XT I get around 9.5km/l driving a mix of expressway and city to work. Generally I don't boost much - just when joining expressways, or when need some speed to come out to main road / changing lanes. Just 1 generation ago, I was getting this level of economy driving on these same routes with my 2.0L NA Honda Accord. The Accord had not enough power (should have bought the 2.4L), so I often had to step hard on the accelerator..

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In comparison, now I have 4WD and also the power level of a 3.5L car. Considering this, to have the similar level of fuel consumption is a good result.

I am considering the FXT too and also curious how the Black Edition look like. �Anyone saw the Black Edition FXT before? Also heard from the salesperson Levorg is coming to this tiny island end of year.

I am considering the FXT too and also curious how the Black Edition look like. �Anyone saw the Black Edition FXT before? Also heard from the salesperson Levorg is coming to this tiny island end of year.

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I saw it in the showroom, to me it don't worth the $8k extra according to the SE. All are cosmetic only which are done locally. The only thing nicer is the seat is more sporty and better support.

For this $8k, I rather use it for a holiday with my family.

I am considering the FXT too and also curious how the Black Edition look like. �Anyone saw the Black Edition FXT before? Also heard from the salesperson Levorg is coming to this tiny island end of year.

Levorg coming?? Really??
Hmmm...

Anyway the black edition is too exp. Most of the stuff can be done outside. Tjeain attraction is the leather seats which uses a different type of leather with STI embossings.

Nice but not worth.

The parts of the BE visible:
-STI front lip
-blacken grille
-STI rear bummer spoiler
-door side metal sills
-boot metal protector
-cf interior panel
-sti gearknob
-suede leather door panels
-sti leather embossed seats

Except leather parts, the rest can buy from them separately.

Edited by Pocus, 27 July 2015 - 03:53 PM.

Levorg coming?? Really??
Hmmm...

Anyway the black edition is too exp. Most of the stuff can be done outside. Tjeain attraction is the leather seats which uses a different type of leather with STI embossings.

Nice but not worth.

real FXT�STI up to 300bph/400Nm,

only add STI logo cost 8k, not worthy :a-no:

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Driving with a light foot will always save fuel, whether with a TC or NA engine.. If you want to monitor, there is a boost gauge on the display - if you don't boost often it won't burn too much fuel. Hard to estimate what fuel consumption you will get without knowing your driving mix and habits.

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With my Forester XT I get around 9.5km/l driving a mix of expressway and city to work. Generally I don't boost much - just when joining expressways, or when need some speed to come out to main road / changing lanes. Just 1 generation ago, I was getting this level of economy driving on these same routes with my 2.0L NA Honda Accord. The Accord had not enough power (should have bought the 2.4L), so I often had to step hard on the accelerator..

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In comparison, now I have 4WD and also the power level of a 3.5L car. Considering this, to have the similar level of fuel consumption is a good result.

actually FXT during urban driving, most time engine under 2000rpm, in term of turbo doesn't cut in, at this rpm it�can follow up�the traffic stream,�unless change lane, pickup etc,��short time boost up to above 2000rpm�

actually FXT during urban driving, most time engine under 2000rpm, in term of turbo doesn't cut in, at this rpm it�can follow up�the traffic stream,�unless change lane, pickup etc,��short time boost up to above 2000rpm�

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What is the rpm when cruising at 100km/h?

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What is the rpm when cruising at 100km/h?

about 1700

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If you are keeping the rpm below 2000rpm, you are overly light foot. You will never enjoy this car.

This car are not suitable for you..

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buy a car and drive like kuniang.

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Take a cab better and less stress sitting at rear seat. :ignoring:

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buy a car and drive like kuniang.

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Take a cab better and less stress sitting at rear seat.

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And to keep below 2000rpm, better to keep to the left slow lane... NOT hogging the right...

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about 1700

:a-m1212: � � [drivingcar]

Edited by Tohto, 27 July 2015 - 04:23 PM.

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And to keep below 2000rpm, better to keep to the left slow lane... NOT hogging the right...

If the gear ratio is good, 2k rpm is not road jogging ok. Lol

If the gear ratio is good, 2k rpm is not road jogging ok. Lol

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I am refering to accelerating from stand still.�

actually FXT during urban driving, most time engine under 2000rpm, in term of turbo doesn't cut in, at this rpm it�can follow up�the traffic stream,�unless change lane, pickup etc,��short time boost up to above 2000rpm�

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Exactly.. most of the time the average driver won't be boosting in Singapore traffic. It's just power in reserve for when you need it. On the occasions I do boost, the engine boosts lightly for a few seconds and it's done (reached desired speed already).

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*Ahem* I have to put disclaimer "average driver", because some people like to drive like F1 drivers (you know who you are!). But those F1 driver types won't be talking about fuel saving anyway...

what is the insurance premium for the XT assuming 50% NCD + 5% demerit free discount?

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what is the insurance premium for the XT assuming 50% NCD + 5% demerit free discount?
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For age 35 to 40, around 1.3k

For age 35 to 40, around 1.3k

depends on which insurance company, only $900+ can get the same at Directasia

depends on which insurance company, only $900+ can get the same at Directasia

My quote is the mandatory AIG insurance offered by MI. After the 1st year, it's free play...

The black grill looks nice... especially in the photos posted earlier of the white FTX. I guess it only looks good on white.

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Any idea how much and where can we do the "carbon fiber" stickers on the chrome parts of the grill?�

Hi.... would like to check for those who have visited MI for the FXT.... when is the next shipment of FXT coming in?

Hows the choice on car color selection?

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Test drive the car last wkend.. Like the car price at 128k and se said MI will bid 52k for Coe rebate at 45k. Coe coming down trend not sure should cheong now or wait further.

The black grill looks nice... especially in the photos posted earlier of the white FTX. I guess it only looks good on white.

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Any idea how much and where can we do the "carbon fiber" stickers on the chrome parts of the grill?�

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The black grille looks good on white and black. As for the rest, should be not too bad, black matches anything.

�

The also selling full honeycomb grille but I felt it made the car look too "normal".

�

CF the grille should be suffice. I planned to DIY this.

Hi.... would like to check for those who have visited MI for the FXT.... when is the next shipment of FXT coming in?

Hows the choice on car color selection?

�

�

�

You can check the color at their website.

�

IMO I find the colors very adult AKA Ah Pek.

light baby�blue? maroon red? bronze? these are color codes for an Altis!

I think most youngster choose White, Black or Silver.

�

They really shedded off the boy racing image for the Forester. If they still have Blue Mica WRX blue�I bet it'll be popular.

Levorg coming?? Really??
Hmmm...

Anyway the black edition is too exp. Most of the stuff can be done outside. Tjeain attraction is the leather seats which uses a different type of leather with STI embossings.

Nice but not worth.

The parts of the BE visible:
-STI front lip
-blacken grille
-STI rear bummer spoiler
-door side metal sills
-boot metal protector
-cf interior panel
-sti gearknob
-suede leather door panels
-sti leather embossed seats

Except leather parts, the rest can buy from them separately.

�

Loves the all black grill... make it look garang... the chrome plate within the Subaru emblem really spoil... can we get it done outside? any third party garage can do this?

�

Loves the all black grill... make it look garang... the chrome plate within the Subaru emblem really spoil... can we get it done outside? any third party garage can do this?

�

plastidip is ur friend...
�

�

The black grille looks good on white and black. As for the rest, should be not too bad, black matches anything.

�

The also selling full honeycomb grille but I felt it made the car look too "normal".

�

CF the grille should be suffice. I planned to DIY this.

�

Did you check do they have the LED on the side like some of those oversea model.

�

Did you check do they have the LED on the side like some of those oversea model.

�

SE said it fails LTA guidelines... :-(

�

plastidip is ur friend...
�

�

I saw a thread on the global Forester forum where someone did it. I'm just not sure if I can remove the grills without damaging the paintwork.�

�

I think I may go do it at a shop.... But don't know which workshop does that...

�

Any suggestions?

�

SE said it fails LTA guidelines... :-(

�

I saw a thread on the global Forester forum where someone did it. I'm just not sure if I can remove the grills without damaging the paintwork.�

�

I think I may go do it at a shop.... But don't know which workshop does that...

�

Any suggestions?

�

im not too sure if need to remove any parts cos i just diy for my mz2..

�

just google plastidip on yt for video to watch..

forester XT is still a boxer engine?

�

how come no air scoop? �where is the IC located?

�

�

Did you check do they have the LED on the side like some of those oversea model.

�

I didn't ask cos not impt to me. But I�have seen at least��2 owners on the roads�having it on their XTs.

�

Taobao is your friend on this, loads of Forester addons, including the DRL we are looking for.

forester XT is still a boxer engine?

�

how come no air scoop? �where is the IC located?

�

�

The day Subaru engines are not boxer will be the day it's fully assimilated to Toyota.

�

still TMIC, air funnel in by grille. Yes, I'd like the scoop design from the Rex. More fierce..

�

The day Subaru engines are not boxer will be the day it's fully assimilated to Toyota.

�

still TMIC, air funnel in by grille. Yes, I'd like the scoop design from the Rex. More fierce..

�

Thanks.

�

I didn't ask cos not impt to me. But I�have seen at least��2 owners on the roads�having it on their XTs.

�

Taobao is your friend on this, loads of Forester addons, including the DRL we are looking for.

The day Subaru engines are not boxer will be the day it's fully assimilated to Toyota.

�

still TMIC, air funnel in by grille. Yes, I'd like the scoop design from the Rex. More fierce..

�

I am opposite from you. I don't like the scoop.

And the latest XT don't have the scoop, make me to consider this car.

To me the new XT just look like a wolf in a sheep clothing.... :grin: and it can eat the X3 2.0L for breakfast on straight performance.

�
I am opposite from you. I don't like the scoop.
And the latest XT don't have the scoop, make me to consider this car.
To me the new XT just look like a wolf in a sheep clothing.... and it can eat the X3 2.0L for breakfast on straight performance.

So you booked the XT? ;)

So you booked the XT? ;)

�

Waiting, waiting....

Current car COE left just below 1yr. Must well wait since trade in value is limited.

Just hope no sudden change in COE policy, I am expecting COE to go down further..

�

plastidip is ur friend...
�

Thanks...�

�

Waiting, waiting....

Current car COE left just below 1yr. Must well wait since trade in value is limited.

Just hope no sudden change in COE policy, I am expecting COE to go down further..

better take action before GE, after that hard to say COE policy no change,

good luck

�

Waiting, waiting....

Current car COE left just below 1yr. Must well wait since trade in value is limited.

Just hope no sudden change in COE policy, I am expecting COE to go down further..

How much are you able to get for your left <1year old car from dealer?

How much are you able to get for your left <1year old car from dealer?

�

My scrap is $23k+ at 10yrs.

They are only offering $26k+.

Continue to drive will only cost me $3k...

Edited by Tohto, 28 July 2015 - 04:29 PM.

about 1700

I am looking at FXT for it drive technology - good engine and new CVT gear box.

1700rpm at 100kmh is very good engine speed.

�

On my earlier question, i would expect to get critics from some but you are right. Buy FXT and drive like a snail... haha...

Getting the car is more for reserve power and pampering oneself from time to time and not to rev it from junction to junction.

It is right to say city driving should not expect good FC, even a norm K3 or nissan should not fetch good FC for urban driving.

My 2L NA is not getting good FC from pure urban driving, even mixed with HW driving does not really bring it up by much.

It is a simple decision of buying a car I like or getting one that save and drive that's all.

�

Tks for the feedback on FXT car performance...

�

My scrap is $23k+ at 10yrs.

They are only offering $26k+.

Continue to drive will only cost me $3k...

what car so high scrap value?

be careful FXT OMV only 17k, scarp value 9k only, sure you want?

�

My scrap is $23k+ at 10yrs.

They are only offering $26k+.

Continue to drive will only cost me $3k...

�

If you think your current car can survive one more year without any major expensive problems then why suffer $10-12k per year depreciation on a new ride when you are losing only $3k by keeping the current one and with every likelihood of saving even more money as �COE prices trend downwards.�

�

Worst case, even if COE prices dip and then start to rise again, just buy either before or when COE prices reach the current level and you are still ahead on the lower depreciation in the meantime.�

�

My scrap is $23k+ at 10yrs.

They are only offering $26k+.

Continue to drive will only cost me $3k...

�

you may be better off selling the car on your own.

Used car depreciation is now around $1k~1.2k/mth.

Assuming you sell your car at $700/mth depreciation, you should be able to get easily $6.3k above scrap value for left 9mth old car.

�

There are people out there looking for less than 1 year car.....

what car so high scrap value?

be careful FXT OMV only 17k, scarp value 9k only, sure you want?

�

BMW 320i.�

High OMV also paying more to the garment.

�

If you think your current car can survive one more year without any major expensive problems then why suffer $10-12k per year depreciation on a new ride when you are losing only $3k by keeping the current one and with every likelihood of saving even more money as �COE prices trend downwards.�

�

Worst case, even if COE prices dip and then start to rise again, just buy either before or when COE prices reach the current level and you are still ahead on the lower depreciation in the meantime.�

�

The only concern is really worry of sudden failure of expensive parts. Even thought I had changed almost all the wear tear and expensive parts (including GB Solenoid) for the past 5yrs.�

Car mileage is already 213k km. Need to worry a bit.

Current tyre will also not last that long..

�

The only concern is really worry of sudden failure of expensive parts. Even thought I had changed almost all the wear tear and expensive parts (including GB Solenoid) for the past 5yrs.�

Car mileage is already 213k km. Need to worry a bit.

Current tyre will also not last that long..

if suddenly�expensive parts failure, send to scarp lah,

can change a set of 2nd hand tyre cheap, cheap

Checking with current Forester....
understand it comes with a spare tyre in the boot.

�

Can it be remove for better FC?

�

Checking with current Forester....
understand it comes with a spare tyre in the boot.
�
Can it be remove for better FC?
�
�

Get another car If you so worried about the FC.

Checking with current Forester....
understand it comes with a spare tyre in the boot.
�
Can it be remove for better FC?
�
�

How much does a full size spare weight? Plus minus 8 to 9kg?

If you are talking about a relatively light car with a small cc engine. (Eg. A 1013kg car with a 1.0l 89bhp engine, maybe the spare tire can help to improve the FC by a bit.

Now you are talking about a 1.7 tonne car with a 2.0 turbo and 250bhp engine, how much can a spare tire save? 0.1km/l?

When I bought my first car, a Suzuki swift, a few of us also try this spare tire trick. In the end, the FC didn't save us much. Not worth the hassle.

Edited by Pocus, 28 July 2015 - 11:20 PM.

How much does a full size spare weight? Plus minus 8 to 9kg?

If you are talking about a relatively light car with a small cc engine. (Eg. A 1013kg car with a 1.0l 89bhp engine, maybe the spare tire can help to improve the FC by a bit.

Now you are talking about a 1.7 tonne car with a 2.0 turbo and 250bhp engine, how much can a spare tire save? 0.1km/l?

When I bought my first car, a Suzuki swift, a few of us also try this spare tire trick. In the end, the FC didn't save us much. Not worth the hassle.

�

Thanks... this is kinda advise I appreciate.

�

Thanks... this is kinda advise I appreciate.

�

If you really want to save on Fuel and improve FC, here are a few proven ways:

�

1)�The Wheels: Rims, the lighter the better, tires matters too. A DNA Db tyres saves fuel but grip sucks, Grippy tyres will eat more fuel so it's best to find�a balanced one. Stock rims are always the best balance unless you spend more on lighter forged rims from Japan or europe, don't waste money on Taiwan/china/Malaysia rims. Some are cast instead of forged, bang abit the rim crack. you balance the wheel until cow come home it's still be off balance, in the long run affect FC and stability of the car. Stock rim or brand rim�is still the best!

�

2)�Tire pressure: keep the tire at optimum pressure for best FC.

�

3)�Exhaust: keep the�muffler�stock,�aftermarket muffler�mods�will affect your low-end torque, which is needed for 80%�of Singapore roads. FC increase will be felt immediately. Don't waste money of intake system like open pod, minimal gain at the expenses of FC.

�

4)�Engine oil: thick engine will reduce power and increase FC, thinner engine will increase power and improve FC but subjected to more wear. Choose the best balance engine oil, if possible alternate between thick and thin. For TC engine, protection is more impt so stick to thick Oil (w40 and above).

�

5) Don't waste money on snake oils like sprint booster, voltage stabs, fuel polarizer and magnets, capsules, surbo, cyclone, some ball to put in tank.

�

6) Go on diet, serious!

If you really want to save on Fuel and improve FC, here are a few proven ways:

�

1)�The Wheels:�Rims, the lighter the better, tires matters too. A DNA Db�tyres�saves fuel but grip sucks, Grippy�tyres�will eat more fuel so it's best to find�a balanced one. Stock�rims�are always the best balance unless you spend more on lighter forged�rims�from Japan or europe, don't waste money on Taiwan/china/Malaysia�rims. Some are cast instead of forged, bang abit the�rim�crack. you balance the wheel until cow come home it's still be off balance, in the long run affect FC and stability of the car. Stock�rim�or brand�rim�is still the best!

�

2)�Tire pressure: keep the tire at optimum pressure for best FC.

�

3)�Exhaust: keep the�muffler�stock,�aftermarket�muffler�mods�will affect your low-end torque, which is needed for 80%�of Singapore roads. FC increase will be felt immediately. Don't waste money of intake system like open pod, minimal gain at the expenses of FC.

�

4)�Engine oil: thick engine will reduce power and increase FC, thinner engine will increase power and improve FC but subjected to more wear. Choose the best balance�engine oil, if possible alternate between thick and thin. For TC engine, protection is more impt so stick to thick Oil (w40 and above).

�

5) Don't waste money on snake oils like sprint booster, voltage stabs, fuel polarizer and magnets, capsules, surbo, cyclone, some ball to put in tank.

�

6) Go on diet, serious!

�

7) Close all windows and sunroof when cruising to reduce drag.

�

Edited by Whitemondeo, 29 July 2015 - 08:56 AM.

�

If you really want to save on Fuel and improve FC, here are a few proven ways:

�

1)�The Wheels: Rims, the lighter the better, tires matters too. A DNA Db tyres saves fuel but grip sucks, Grippy tyres will eat more fuel so it's best to find�a balanced one. Stock rims are always the best balance unless you spend more on lighter forged rims from Japan or europe, don't waste money on Taiwan/china/Malaysia rims. Some are cast instead of forged, bang abit the rim crack. you balance the wheel until cow come home it's still be off balance, in the long run affect FC and stability of the car. Stock rim or brand rim�is still the best!

�

2)�Tire pressure: keep the tire at optimum pressure for best FC.

�

3)�Exhaust: keep the�muffler�stock,�aftermarket muffler�mods�will affect your low-end torque, which is needed for 80%�of Singapore roads. FC increase will be felt immediately. Don't waste money of intake system like open pod, minimal gain at the expenses of FC.

�

4)�Engine oil: thick engine will reduce power and increase FC, thinner engine will increase power and improve FC but subjected to more wear. Choose the best balance engine oil, if possible alternate between thick and thin. For TC engine, protection is more impt so stick to thick Oil (w40 and above).

�

5) Don't waste money on snake oils like sprint booster, voltage stabs, fuel polarizer and magnets, capsules, surbo, cyclone, some ball to put in tank.

�

6) Go on diet, serious!

�

Well said bro !

�

Want to give you some points, but can't. � �So give you this� [thumbsup]

�

If you really want to save on Fuel and improve FC, here are a few proven ways:

�

1)�The Wheels: Rims, the lighter the better, tires matters too. A DNA Db tyres saves fuel but grip sucks, Grippy tyres will eat more fuel so it's best to find�a balanced one. Stock rims are always the best balance unless you spend more on lighter forged rims from Japan or europe, don't waste money on Taiwan/china/Malaysia rims. Some are cast instead of forged, bang abit the rim crack. you balance the wheel until cow come home it's still be off balance, in the long run affect FC and stability of the car. Stock rim or brand rim�is still the best!

�

2)�Tire pressure: keep the tire at optimum pressure for best FC.

�

3)�Exhaust: keep the�muffler�stock,�aftermarket muffler�mods�will affect your low-end torque, which is needed for 80%�of Singapore roads. FC increase will be felt immediately. Don't waste money of intake system like open pod, minimal gain at the expenses of FC.

�

4)�Engine oil: thick engine will reduce power and increase FC, thinner engine will increase power and improve FC but subjected to more wear. Choose the best balance engine oil, if possible alternate between thick and thin. For TC engine, protection is more impt so stick to thick Oil (w40 and above).

�

5) Don't waste money on snake oils like sprint booster, voltage stabs, fuel polarizer and magnets, capsules, surbo, cyclone, some ball to put in tank.

�

6) Go on diet, serious!

�

what about go hybrid?

�

Checking with current Forester....
understand it comes with a spare tyre in the boot.

�

Can it be remove for better FC?

�

�

I always take out the spare tyre while driving in Singapore, not only this FXT, my previous car also, unless I drive to Malaysia, I put back spare tyre,

honestly speaking, no significant affect to FC, but get psychologically comfort,

�

If you really want to save on Fuel and improve FC, here are a few proven ways:

�

1)�The Wheels: Rims, the lighter the better, tires matters too. A DNA Db tyres saves fuel but grip sucks, Grippy tyres will eat more fuel so it's best to find�a balanced one. Stock rims are always the best balance unless you spend more on lighter forged rims from Japan or europe, don't waste money on Taiwan/china/Malaysia rims. Some are cast instead of forged, bang abit the rim crack. you balance the wheel until cow come home it's still be off balance, in the long run affect FC and stability of the car. Stock rim or brand rim�is still the best!

�

2)�Tire pressure: keep the tire at optimum pressure for best FC.

�

3)�Exhaust: keep the�muffler�stock,�aftermarket muffler�mods�will affect your low-end torque, which is needed for 80%�of Singapore roads. FC increase will be felt immediately. Don't waste money of intake system like open pod, minimal gain at the expenses of FC.

�

4)�Engine oil: thick engine will reduce power and increase FC, thinner engine will increase power and improve FC but subjected to more wear. Choose the best balance engine oil, if possible alternate between thick and thin. For TC engine, protection is more impt so stick to thick Oil (w40 and above).

�

5) Don't waste money on snake oils like sprint booster, voltage stabs, fuel polarizer and magnets, capsules, surbo, cyclone, some ball to put in tank.

�

6) Go on diet, serious!

�

just tell him to buy a prius. or a cheaper car or don't drive. in the end is all about $$.

�

�

just tell him to buy a prius. or a cheaper car or don't drive. in the end is all about $$.

�

prius boh power leh

there is one car balance Power/Price/FC in the�best�optimization,

It is�JETTA [thumbsup] ��

prius boh power leh

there is one car balance Power/Price/FC in the�best�optimization,

It is�JETTA ��

�

yes i highly agree... because half the time it will be in the workshop (like keithchue, sorry keith)... so save petrol in the end.. [laugh]

�

yes i highly agree... because half the time it will be in the workshop (like keithchue, sorry keith)... so save petrol in the end..

�

hmmm...half the time? �too generous. �We use car 2 hrs a day. �So 90% of a day the car is in down mode. �Whether you drive a jetta or a altis make no difference...ha..ha

�

hmmm...half the time? �too generous. �We use car 2 hrs a day. �So 90% of a day the car is in down mode. �Whether you drive a jetta or a altis make no difference...ha..ha

�

figure of speech la. well good luck to your A3. hope it doesn't suffer the MU issues. (not being sarcastic)

�

just tell him to buy a prius. or a cheaper car or don't drive. in the end is all about $$.

�

�

Let's not be too mean here.

�

His question reminds me if the time I bought my first car more than a decade ago. We are inquisitive and at the same time, stretching our wallets for the car. Haven't we all did stupid things to our cars? Change to cheap crap rims with expiring tyres, cut bumper for CAI, deepthroat mufflers, fender scrapping coils, mismatch�stickers and decals�and various snake oils. In the end? We learn that all is nice looking but waste of money.

�

But being young and newbie, we just have to go through this phase before we mature. Its like�a rite of passage..

�

BMW 320i.�

High OMV also paying more to the garment.

�

I'm driving a 320i too and I am eyeing a FXT. I am not concern of the low OMV of FXT, you pay lesser price, you get back lesser. You pay more for a car, you get back more when you scrap it. Anyway most of the new cars in the market now have pretty low OMV, I calculate the yearly depreciation of the car and decide if it is value for money. For the time being, FXT is my choice as the yearly depreciation is low and the car gives me performance. It has a boxy-look but I like it... kinda unique as most of the other car designs have the sleak look, eg. Vezel and Harrier. My current car still have 2yr to go... so I will wait and monitor the COE prices

�

If you really want to save on Fuel and improve FC, here are a few proven ways:

�

1)�The Wheels: Rims, the lighter the better, tires matters too. A DNA Db tyres saves fuel but grip sucks, Grippy tyres will eat more fuel so it's best to find�a balanced one. Stock rims are always the best balance unless you spend more on lighter forged rims from Japan or europe, don't waste money on Taiwan/china/Malaysia rims. Some are cast instead of forged, bang abit the rim crack. you balance the wheel until cow come home it's still be off balance, in the long run affect FC and stability of the car. Stock rim or brand rim�is still the best!

�

2)�Tire pressure: keep the tire at optimum pressure for best FC.

�

3)�Exhaust: keep the�muffler�stock,�aftermarket muffler�mods�will affect your low-end torque, which is needed for 80%�of Singapore roads. FC increase will be felt immediately. Don't waste money of intake system like open pod, minimal gain at the expenses of FC.

�

4)�Engine oil: thick engine will reduce power and increase FC, thinner engine will increase power and improve FC but subjected to more wear. Choose the best balance engine oil, if possible alternate between thick and thin. For TC engine, protection is more impt so stick to thick Oil (w40 and above).

�

5) Don't waste money on snake oils like sprint booster, voltage stabs, fuel polarizer and magnets, capsules, surbo, cyclone, some ball to put in tank.

�

6) Go on diet, serious!

�Hi Bro Pocus

�

Being quite new writing to the forum, I must say it is nice to have people like you contributing and advising stuff like the above.� Detailed, helpful, no bias.

I am a�new proud owner of a 2.0l premium now and am always looking to Forester experts advice here.

Not able to up your points, so I thot I say it here.

�
figure of speech la. well good luck to your A3. hope it doesn't suffer the MU issues. (not being sarcastic)

I doubt any jetta owner will think your snide as a joke though.

Maybe you meant it as a joke but just like your response above it is no more than juvenile snide.

�

Let's not be too mean here.

�

His question reminds me if the time I bought my first car more than a decade ago. We are inquisitive and at the same time, stretching our wallets for the car. Haven't we all did stupid things to our cars? Change to cheap crap rims with expiring tyres, cut bumper for CAI, deepthroat mufflers, fender scrapping coils, mismatch�stickers and decals�and various snake oils. In the end? We learn that all is nice looking but waste of money.

�

But being young and newbie, we just have to go through this phase before we mature. Its like�a rite of passage..

�

Well said� [thumbsup] �I'm one of them� [:p]

�

Let's not be too mean here.

�

His question reminds me if the time I bought my first car more than a decade ago. We are inquisitive and at the same time, stretching our wallets for the car. Haven't we all did stupid things to our cars? Change to cheap crap rims with expiring tyres, cut bumper for CAI, deepthroat mufflers, fender scrapping coils, mismatch�stickers and decals�and various snake oils. In the end? We learn that all is nice looking but waste of money.

�

But being young and newbie, we just have to go through this phase before we mature. Its like�a rite of passage..

�

haha Thanks

�

Thats why i only respond to you.

�

no one owes anybody answers here

�

if you reply nice - Thanks, appreciated

not so nice - well, they are just noise.

�

Let's not be too mean here.

�

His question reminds me if the time I bought my first car more than a decade ago. We are inquisitive and at the same time, stretching our wallets for the car. Haven't we all did stupid things to our cars? Change to cheap crap rims with expiring tyres, cut bumper for CAI, deepthroat mufflers, fender scrapping coils, mismatch�stickers and decals�and various snake oils. In the end? We learn that all is nice looking but waste of money.

�

But being young and newbie, we just have to go through this phase before we mature. Its like�a rite of passage..

�

if it is a rite of passage then the money is meant to be wasted

�

good advice will just fall on deaf ears

�

�
if it is a rite of passage then the money is meant to be wasted
�
good advice will just fall on deaf ears
�

But still ok to advise. Whether listen or not is another thing.

When I got my first car, I wanted to change rims. Not just change but upsize the rims too. My dad advise me against this and say stock rim is the best.

I when ahead and change to cheap rims, was disillusioned for years till I finally admit that my rims, besides looking nice, sucks balls in terms of balance and FC.

After all these years, my dad is right!

I asked him and he said he did the same thing when he got his first car, a 1st gen civic. He only advice but din stop me cos he felt I should learn from it first hand. Lol..

Edited by Pocus, 29 July 2015 - 03:30 PM.

For age 35 to 40, around 1.3k

�

Hey Pocus, understand that you have a quote of about 1.3k for the inhouse AIG insurance. Do you know what the excess is?�

�

I asked the SE and he quoted me 1.4k excess which is quite shocking to me. Not sure if this is normal.

�

TIA.

Dear FXi owners, can share the reasons that you didn't go for FXT? Any advise would be very much helpful for my decision.

Lower insurance

Cheaper

Don't need the power

Don't fancy the electric tailgate

�
Hey Pocus, understand that you have a quote of about 1.3k for the inhouse AIG insurance. Do you know what the excess is?�
�
I asked the SE and he quoted me 1.4k excess which is quite shocking to me. Not sure if this is normal.
�
TIA.

How much did they quote you for premium? I know AIG offer 1 to 1 for first year for total loss, maybe that's why excess so high.

Anyway, I'm not a fan of them but first year with no choice. Try to see if se can offset insurance for discount.

I only know after first year ill kiss AIG goodbye.

Lower insurance

Cheaper

Don't need the power

Don't fancy the electric tailgate

More importantly, better FC.

Want a smoothly ride and is less firm and bumpy.

Don't need X-mode function.

�

I think the option�that saved the 2.0i is having most options as the XT, esp the sunroof. So it's only down to whether you need such powerful engine.

�

It's akin to Swift and Swift Sport.

�

Nice move there Subaru.

�

Edited by Pocus, 30 July 2015 - 09:03 AM.

How much did they quote you for premium? I know AIG offer 1 to 1 for first year for total loss, maybe that's why excess so high.

Anyway, I'm not a fan of them but first year with no choice. Try to see if se can offset insurance for discount.

I only know after first year ill kiss AIG goodbye.

�

Thanks for the reply. The quoted premium is about 1.4k, excess 1.4k � [crazy] � [crazy] � [crazy] � I'm on 50% ncd and 5% com (Not sure if they considered this).

�

I usually go with the AD first year insurance because there's some price offset, the difference isnt that significant, and the SE also get some commission. Win-Win. now I'm reconsidering...�

�

AFAIK, the play is with the excess to bring down the premium. In this case, high premium and damn high excess. So I went ahead and got some online quotes, excess is in the regions of $500, premium varies from high $900 to $1.2k. I think if i adjust the excess to 1.4k, I maybe able to get $800 premium? I'll go try it out later today. [laugh] ��

�

Any other bros can share your premium/excess quoted for XT? Greatly appreciated!�

Dear FXi owners, can share the reasons that you didn't go for FXT? Any advise would be very much helpful for my decision.

I believe the major reason�power is not their top priority,�

but they still want to enjoy reputed Subaru AWD, Boxer engine with 10k cheaper,

honestly speaking, FXT attracted me by its�power/AWD/Boxer engine and 5 stars safety rating, [thumbsup]

otherwise I will choose Vezel, QQ, Xtrail, Harrier,�which have much better interior and equipments

mycarforum

Thứ Năm, 29 tháng 12, 2016

2015 Forester 2.0 part 4

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