I think the M3 stocks are coming in. They are starting to advertise on M3 again today after laying low on M3 for some months. Ha ha
Any bros has their Mazda Connect reset on its own? I have encountered quite a lot of self restart (prob more than 10 times over last 5 mths), and out of which about 3-4 times all my fav radio and contacts were cleared out. :( Its intermittent so have not reported to Mazda yet.�
I'm still using the stock rim and tires first. Wear it down first, cause if I trade in the brand new and original tires also not much value. Might as well use it till its worn.
Yup, thanks. Saw it on the video about mazda 3.
Good idea.
Anyone wanna organise a meetup session or 2014 Mz 3 group for technical and mod support.
Any bros has their Mazda Connect reset on its own? I have encountered quite a lot of self restart (prob more than 10 times over last 5 mths), and out of which about 3-4 times all my fav radio and contacts were cleared out. :( Its intermittent so have not reported to Mazda yet.�
I have it once, self restart... and the USB port seem unstable.. going to highlight to Mazda during servicing.
No problem. Happy to share. Remember to use the latest TSB as I believe there are at least 3 revisions since Jan.
�
I think there's only 1 switch for TCS/DCS combined. If I recall from the manual, its supposed to control both. Nvr tried pressing for 10s.�
�
I still facing the "nock nock" when driving over rough surface or hump. Feedback to AD Ubi during the 1K and 5K�servicing,�but was told them to monitor again. They did not do anything.
�
Based on the few posting, some have commented there�had the BUSHES�(changed). how was it subsequently? managed to� eliminate the "noise"?
�
Anyone had shown the TSB to the local AD?
Edited by Kiddies, 06 December 2014 - 06:25 PM.
Any bros has their Mazda Connect reset on its own? I have encountered quite a lot of self restart (prob more than 10 times over last 5 mths), and out of which about 3-4 times all my fav radio and contacts were cleared out. :( Its intermittent so have not reported to Mazda yet.�
i have experienced that too. the bluetooth function was also having some issues
btw, on the local radio stations function, does the screen display the station name like class 95?
cos mine is showing 95.0... had thought displaying station name should be the norm.
Mazda is at the forefront of design for the Japs
Just like Kawasaki is for the Jap bikes
�
Haha, just saw this, thats what i thought, also their market positioning.
Mz like kawa, seem to be doing their own thing.....different from their counterparts.
iyo, if Yamaha made cars, which existing car manufacturer would fit ...?� Nissan?
�
I still facing the "nock nock" when driving over rough surface or hump. Feedback to AD Ubi during the 1K and 5K�servicing,�but was told them to monitor again. They did not do anything.
�
Based on the few posting, some have commented there�had the BUSHES�(changed). how was it subsequently? managed to� eliminate the "noise"?
�
Anyone had shown the TSB to the local AD?
�
They better solve these teething problem fast... sounds similar to Hyundai but 10 years ago..�
Had mine changed and the noise is gone. Did you go for test drive with the agent during servicing to let them hear the noise?�
I still facing the "nock nock" when driving over rough surface or hump. Feedback to AD Ubi during the 1K and 5K�servicing,�but was told them to monitor again. They did not do anything.
�
Based on the few posting, some have commented there�had the BUSHES�(changed). how was it subsequently? managed to� eliminate the "noise"?
�
Anyone had shown the TSB to the local AD?
Had mine changed and the noise is gone. Did you go for test drive with the agent during servicing to let them hear the noise?
�
Yes, with the tester. It was fairly loud especially over hump and corner turn.
The car floats above 135km/hr ...�
I believe its the dampers ... so in short, i dont think it will improve handling at high speed ...�
at low speed it will .... but it is not relevant.
�
maybe front strut bar better ...�
�
U meant the car get unstable feel when cruising at 135km/h?
�
U meant the car get unstable feel when cruising at 135km/h?
yes, above 135km/hr.
my previous car is fiat grande punto for reference.
�
Yes, with the tester. It was fairly loud especially over hump and corner turn.
�I'm surprised that they still ask you to monitor after hearing the noise. They changed my bushings after hearing the noise.�
�I'm surprised that they still ask you to monitor after hearing the noise. They changed my bushings after hearing the noise.�
�
Will changing it solve the problem? Mine also got, coming from left.
Noise is subjective. I recorded the sound in a video - link below - u can see if it is similar. It's obvious and quite loud. Had my bushings changed as claimed by Mazda and the sound is gone.�
Will changing it solve the problem? Mine also got, coming from left.
Not sure if tts the same as the bros here.sry abt the wrong orientation of the video.
""
Noise is subjective. I recorded the sound in a video - link below - u can see if it is similar. It's obvious and quite loud. Had my bushings changed as claimed by Mazda and the sound is gone.
Not sure if tts the same as the bros here.sry abt the wrong orientation of the video.
""
Thanks bro, now I know what to hear out for in my new ride. Cheers.
Noise is subjective. I recorded the sound in a video - link below - u can see if it is similar. It's obvious and quite loud. Had my bushings changed as claimed by Mazda and the sound is gone.
Not sure if tts the same as the bros here.sry abt the wrong orientation of the video.
""
�
Thanks Adrian ... that knocking noise is loud .... mine done have ... only the occasional squeaking noise from the pillar.
�
I still facing the "nock nock" when driving over rough surface or hump. Feedback to AD Ubi during the 1K and 5K�servicing,�but was told them to monitor again. They did not do anything.
�
Based on the few posting, some have commented there�had the BUSHES�(changed). how was it subsequently? managed to� eliminate the "noise"?
�
Anyone had shown the TSB to the local AD?
�
I think you shd insist that they change it.
�
I changed mine, the 'nock' sound went off but there's the 'click' sound which they can't resolve, that's when I found out abt the TSB from US forum & decided to just fix it on my own, instead of wasting time with them.�
�
DIY. I have an extra set to let go if anyone is interested. :) Cheers �
�
Noise is subjective. I recorded the sound in a video - link below - u can see if it is similar. It's obvious and quite loud. Had my bushings changed as claimed by Mazda and the sound is gone.
Not sure if tts the same as the bros here.sry abt the wrong orientation of the video.
""
wow yours is very loud indeed. just had my changed today and they changed it without questioning.
anyone got weird sounds coming from the exhaust area? like got stone or marbles running about in the exhaust?
anyone got weird sounds coming from the exhaust area? like got stone or marbles running about in the exhaust?
�
No, don't have.
�
The bracket/s holding your exhaust may be lose; rattling as the exhaust hit it?
�
No, don't have.
�
The bracket/s holding your exhaust may be lose; rattling as the exhaust hit it?
�
not really rattling.. more like if u have stones in a metal bottle and shake it ard kind of sound
1st & 2nd gear digs quite low right? esp the 1st at 3.5? 2nd I think is about 2. �Compared to most 4AT where 1st/2nd is 3.0 & 1.5.
Hence, iwt the move off should be ok up to 2nd gear speeds.
The first gear ratio is good, as high as manual car, thus will have better acceleration as compared to normal 4AT. Second gear is 1.8, a little lower then manual gear, which means the switch between 1st and 2nd gear is further apart and acceleration for gear 2 may not be as fast as manual 2nd gear, but still better than 4AT.1st & 2nd gear digs quite low right? esp the 1st at 3.5? 2nd I think is about 2. �Compared to most 4AT where 1st/2nd is 3.0 & 1.5.
Hence, iwt the move off should be ok up to 2nd gear speeds.
Overall the M3's 6 gears AT will outperform any 4AT in both acceleration and fuel economy.
Edited by Brainstorm, 10 December 2014 - 10:33 AM.
Hi guys, anyone's M3 chassis/VIN number is after JM6BM****E0189735 or F0100001? Do your M3 still have the nock nock or clicking sound?
�
Mine after F013XXXX, also had those sound.�
�
Mine after F013XXXX, also had those sound.�
F0 is considered 2015 production... still have the sound? My SE told me mine is F01397XX. Can only collect end Dec... ie has to wait some more. Ha ha
F0 is considered 2015 production... still have the sound? My SE told me mine is F01397XX. Can only collect end Dec... ie has to wait some more. Ha ha
�
Whilst US mkt is big for them, cant be they only rectify for them. I didnt read of any further complaints on this issue there...Hmmm unless b'cos of RH / LH production cars.... maybe shd check if EU / AU have such complaints.
The first gear ratio is good, as high as manual car, thus will have better acceleration as compared to normal 4AT. Second gear is 1.8, a little lower then manual gear, which means the switch between 1st and 2nd gear is further apart and acceleration for gear 2 may not be as fast as manual 2nd gear, but still better than 4AT.
Overall the M3's 6 gears AT will outperform any 4AT in both acceleration and fuel economy.
Thanks. In this case, (after run in), 1st gear should be dragged a little longer before lifting the foot to encouraging the switch to second.
Wonder why they make 1st & 2nd so far apart. 1 reason I heard before reg 2nd gear for many bnb cars is that ....to allow 2nd gear to reach 100 at redline. This is to make the century sprint timing look decent.�
�
U meant the car get unstable feel when cruising at 135km/h?
�
Let me be a bit more specific ...�
I personally feel that the rebound setting of the stock dampers is a bit on the soft side when going fast �... eg. if you are hitting a long slightly bumpy curve at high speed ... i dont feel too good as the rebound of the dampers makes me feel that the car will skid on the rebound after the bump.
I had that same feeling on my previous Bilstein B4 (aka cheapest made in china) dampers on my previous car.
In fact, I am not susprised if the present M3 dampers are Bilstein B4. THe characteristics are similiar.
has anyone bought Mz3 2.0?
�
Whilst US mkt is big for them, cant be they only rectify for them. I didnt read of any further complaints on this issue there...Hmmm unless b'cos of RH / LH production cars.... maybe shd check if EU / AU have such complaints.
Hmm... in that case, anyone recently collected their M3 and dont have the nock or click sound? Can share your VIN serial number? Thks.
IMG_5796.JPG
�
DIY. I have an extra set to let go if anyone is interested. :) Cheers �
�
wow yours is very loud indeed. just had my changed today and they changed it without questioning.
�
DIY. I have an extra set to let go if anyone is interested. :) Cheers �
Can pm me the price?
wow yours is very loud indeed. just had my changed today and they changed it without questioning.
Thanks. In this case, (after run in), 1st gear should be dragged a little longer before lifting the foot to encouraging the switch to second.
Wonder why they make 1st & 2nd so far apart. 1 reason I heard before reg 2nd gear for many bnb cars is that ....to allow 2nd gear to reach 100 at redline. This is to make the century sprint timing look decent.�
�
Collected my car 1 month ago, but still haven even hit 1000km. When i drive, i usually rev gear 1 between 2500-3000. If not the acceleration cannot make it. Need gear 2 onwards then got longer gears.�
�
Collected my car 1 month ago, but still haven even hit 1000km. When i drive, i usually rev gear 1 between 2500-3000. If not the acceleration cannot make it. Need gear 2 onwards then got longer gears.�
Understandably so, considering the kerb weight.
�
My ride also have the "nock nock" sound over hump since day one, collected my car 2weeks ago. Mine vin is F0155xxx. And Finally today send in for bushing and one other item( I can't remember what it is). Now the irritating sound is off my ears..
mine still have the dok dok sound after changing the bushings two weeks back. Could you share with us what is the other item? I suspect it is the shock absorber itself..not so irritating when going past hump..but can hear the� faint rattling dok dok sound on rough roads at slow speed or going up slope suddenly..
mine still have the dok dok sound after changing the bushings two weeks back. Could you share with us what is the other item? I suspect it is the shock absorber itself..not so irritating when going past hump..but can hear the� faint rattling dok dok sound on rough roads at slow speed or going up slope suddenly..
If I'm not wrong the front desk guy mention some kinda mount for shock absorber, not the shock absorber itself. I shall see any sound similar comes up along the way before my 1000km..
If I'm not wrong the front desk guy mention some kinda mount for shock absorber, not the shock absorber itself. I shall see any sound similar comes up along the way before my 1000km..
thanks
If I'm not wrong the front desk guy mention some kinda mount for shock absorber, not the shock absorber itself. I shall see any sound similar comes up along the way before my 1000km..
�
That thing is called a shock mount.
My ride also have the "nock nock" sound over hump since day one, collected my car 2weeks ago. Mine vin is F0155xxx. And Finally today send in for bushing and one other item( I can't remember what it is). Now the irritating sound is off my ears..
�
Hmm... seems like the serial numbers not consistent with the shipment one.. your serial number is newer then mine and my M3 only just arrive..
�
Anyone else collecting their M3 this month too? Whats your serial number like? :-)�
I will be getting the car next week.
�
What to look out for ? And also, do u guys do a polish, wax or how to do a paint protection layer ?
�
Is it ok to do at those shopping malls for waxing or polishing ? Cost only�below $100 I think...
I will be getting the car next week.
�
What to look out for ? And also, do u guys do a polish, wax or how to do a paint protection layer ?
�
Is it ok to do at those shopping malls for waxing or polishing ? Cost only�below $100 I think...
Hi, I'm getting mine this weekend. Have PM you.
Things to look out for:
1. Check the car mileage, shld be around 10-20km.
2. Check for cosmetic defects, paint work, any scratches, dents, etc.
3. VIN number is correct.
4. Any other defects can complain later.
5. Pls comment if there are other things to add.
As for waxing, dont do if u are going to tint solar film. Actually waxing for new cars quite wastefull, as the car already have clear coat protection. Polishing just thin down clear coat and waxing/pps not very lasting... can save $$ for future.
I Topped up $2K two bids ago... Got my COE at the prev round of COE bid�
�
I bought at $105K, even after topping up of $2K, I still got the car at a lower price than the current $115K.
Hi bro, read through the thread realised that you managed to get your car at $107k.
Congrats on your ride!
May i check with you what kibd of packaged do you get?
Eg, additional 2 years warranty, 3 years free servicing and what kind of freebies they give you?
Thanks in advance :)
Collected my ride yesterday morning! Great service from my SE. Saw quite a few others collecting theirs also.. All took white colour.. Seems like quite a lot of vehicles came in during this recent November shipment which was slightly delayed by few days as even the visitor parking lots all around the showroom are all full with new cars awaiting delivery. Everything so far so good..!
Just collected my ride today. Everything is good and smooth. Drove back from Ubi to home and clocked 17.24km/L (5.8L/100Km), very good mileage.�
Collected my ride yesterday morning! Great service from my SE. Saw quite a few others collecting theirs also.. All took white colour.. Seems like quite a lot of vehicles came in during this recent November shipment which was slightly delayed by few days as even the visitor parking lots all around the showroom are all full with new cars awaiting delivery. Everything so far so good..!
�
Maybe they process the new vehicle by colours? Yesterday are all whites and light colours. Today the cars I saw are all dark colours (black, m. grey, blue reflex, s. red), no whites. Think its easier for them to do the polishing of light and dark colours separated. �
Edited by Brainstorm, 19 December 2014 - 09:54 PM.
My ride also have the "nock nock" sound over hump since day one, collected my car 2weeks ago. Mine vin is F0155xxx. And Finally today send in for bushing and one other item( I can't remember what it is). Now the irritating sound is off my ears..
�
I think the serial number of sedan and hatchback is different between the two models... collected mine today and saw the sedan behind my is F0160XXX and my hatchback is F0139XXX.... so big difference and a lot more M3 sedan then hatchback?�
Enjoy ur new Mz3...
�
Thanks bro!!
Just collected my ride today. Everything is good and smooth. Drove back from Ubi to home and clocked 17.24km/L (5.8L/100Km), very good mileage.�
�
Thats very good FC. I'm on 3rd tank currently, I'm getting 13.4km/l.
http://www.businessi...12/#.VJV48Y3AIE
A couple in New Zealand were stuck inside their car for 13 hours after they left their wireless key fob outside and managed to lock themselves in.
Arstechnica reports the couple, Mollieanna and Brian Smith, 65 and 68, suffered the ordeal in the front seats of their Mazda3 hatchback last month.
The Otago Daily Times explains that a series of unfortunate events and a combination of stress, night-time, and what they called a lack of information from the salesperson conspired against the pair.
The Smiths became trapped at 7 p.m. on Guy Fawkes night, Nov. 5, according to the paper. There were fireworks exploding outside and nobody heard them sound the horn to alert neighbours to their distress.
Mazda3 models sold in New Zealand are equipped with push-button starting and keyless entry via a radio-equipped key fob, writes Arstechnica. Of course, the vehicles are all fitted with manual mechanisms too but the Smiths say they werent told of that and, despite searching for them during the incident, couldnt locate them. Theyre under the armrests and to make matters worse, the car manual was inside the house.
The couple were freed by neighbours the next day at around 7.45 a.m. Mrs Smith was found unconscious and her husband was suffering from breathing difficulties, the Otago Times adds. Apparently they were told by emergency services that another half an hour could have led to death.
Mr and Mrs Smith decided to report the incident to the media as they feared other older people might also be inexperienced with the technology. Mr Smith told the paper: Once I found out how simple it was to unlock it I kicked myself that I did not find the way out. I had this mindset that I did not have the transponder [so I could not get out].
The Otago Times says the countrys general manager for Mazdam, Glenn Harris, said the report was an industry first and added that its not a design fault. However, Mr Smith says other people did get in touch with them following the story who had endured similar experiences.
Edited by Pocus, 20 December 2014 - 09:31 PM.
Mazda 3 technology almost killed an elderly couple who were trapped in their car. Though I wouldn't blame Mazda for this...
http://www.businessi...12/#.VJV48Y3AIE
A couple in New Zealand were stuck inside their car for 13 hours after they left their wireless key fob outside and managed to lock themselves in.
Arstechnica reports the couple, Mollieanna and Brian Smith, 65 and 68, suffered the ordeal in the front seats of their Mazda3 hatchback last month.
The Otago Daily Times explains that a series of unfortunate events and a combination of stress, night-time, and what they called a lack of information from the salesperson conspired against the pair.
The Smiths became trapped at 7 p.m. on Guy Fawkes night, Nov. 5, according to the paper. There were fireworks exploding outside and nobody heard them sound the horn to alert neighbours to their distress.
Mazda3 models sold in New Zealand are equipped with push-button starting and keyless entry via a radio-equipped key fob, writes Arstechnica. Of course, the vehicles are all fitted with manual mechanisms too but the Smiths say they werent told of that and, despite searching for them during the incident, couldnt locate them. Theyre under the armrests and to make matters worse, the car manual was inside the house.
The couple were freed by neighbours the next day at around 7.45 a.m. Mrs Smith was found unconscious and her husband was suffering from breathing difficulties, the Otago Times adds. Apparently they were told by emergency services that another half an hour could have led to death.
Mr and Mrs Smith decided to report the incident to the media as they feared other older people might also be inexperienced with the technology. Mr Smith told the paper: Once I found out how simple it was to unlock it I kicked myself that I did not find the way out. I had this mindset that I did not have the transponder [so I could not get out].
The Otago Times says the countrys general manager for Mazdam, Glenn Harris, said the report was an industry first and added that its not a design fault. However, Mr Smith says other people did get in touch with them following the story who had endured similar experiences.
�
Wow... New Zealand so happening... fireworks starts at 7pm and lasted all the way till 7:45am the next day.... horn whole night also cannot be heard.�
![[bounce1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_unt7CYCtG0MZUwptg-VH028TKMmB3I-HADSqy9Xuy2MOfGmrJLRt8qG4yD4Unsf6lq0mBfJD4YP_h0JjuMUt0OuR62Tl9zRRXjZH1jwrUjjMS0TMtJaJH0Kl5rT4iL2bjqtlYXp4Ru=s0-d)
Test drove Mazda 3 recently but did not buy it. Couldn't believe reading about suspension noises in a brand new Japanese car! Guess it's our luck, but you would think paying for�something�at more than 100K should�at least give you initial peace of mind.
Test drove Mazda 3 recently but did not buy it. Couldn't believe reading about suspension noises in a brand new Japanese car! Guess it's our luck, but you would think paying for�something�at more than 100K should�at least give you initial peace of mind.
Well, all cars will have their own little problems. Good thing is Mazda has seems to identified the problems and the new shippment M3 seems to be fine. :-)
�
Hi, can I confirm that the interior light bulbs are 31mm Festoon type? Thinking of buying the�LED�type to replace.�
What for?�
�
Also can confirm if there is 2x for front map reading
Yes.
�
, 1x for hatchback�boot�lights right?
Yes.
�Is there an additional rear cabin light (after sun roof) in the cabin too?
Yes. But it cannot be turn OFF or ON at the back.
��
Does the flip down mirror have light (saw on the US user manual)? Thanks.�
No.
�
�
Just noticed that both my flip down vanity mirrors also have the little light beside it (same as the US manual). Its fuse type of bulb. ![[thumbsup]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_v0fL8zvi6PLIa85aKt6c_ClZJkuom5zDYZzKl3OuMBSHemsYHcfdWTImMM_ah3I7NG9OwyqZWibWccd9_XiSlAITCa-Uf3v8PzCiFlRHnOyQPgtb90EIiMdnZ8aSDNJlSXqeiAt5qE=s0-d)
�
Just noticed that both my flip down vanity mirrors also have the little light beside it (same as the US manual). Its fuse type of bulb.
some readers here are from overseas so need to check the origins of readers. Hahaha ...
Test drove Mazda 3 recently but did not buy it. Couldn't believe reading about suspension noises in a brand new Japanese car! Guess it's our luck, but you would think paying for�something�at more than 100K should�at least give you initial peace of mind.
Just curious, which car did you end up buying?
But to�add some fairness,�it should be baselined on OMV. Its not Maz's fault on how Sg conducts traffic mgt..�
�
Test drove Mazda 3 recently but did not buy it. Couldn't believe reading about suspension noises in a brand new Japanese car! Guess it's our luck, but you would think paying for�something�at more than 100K should�at least give you initial peace of mind.
�
Before I bought the Mazda 3, I tested a number of other cars as below: Hyundai Elantra, Toyota Altis, Toyota Prius C, Honda City, and Honda Jazz. Some of my personal feel on these cars:
�
�
Toyota Altis: Good acceleration, spacious, GPS, rear aircon, LED DRL/stop lamp, nice appearance, good mileage. Overall a very nice car to drive, a little fun to own and reasonable price for a Japan brand made in tom yum. �
�
Toyota Prius C: Ok acceleration, compact, GPS, cute appearance, LED headlamp, excellent mileage (hybrid car), informative/interesting display, 10 years battery warranty. Overall a very fun car to own, ok car to drive, and the mileage is superb. Price with $20K rebate is also very good for a made in Japan car.�
�
Honda City: Good acceleration, ok size, average appearance, no LED, good mileage. Overall a nice car to drive, but not fun to own, good price�for a Japan brand made in tom yum.
�
Honda Jazz (2015):�Excellent acceleration (the power to weight ratio is superb), direct-injection engine, compact, nice appearance, LED headlamp, excellent mileage for a non-hybrid car. Overall a very fun car to own and also a nice car to drive. Good price�for a made in Japan car.
�
Hyundai Elantra: Good acceleration, spacious, rear aircon, big LED DRL,�nice outlook, good mileage. Overall a nice car to drive, but not very fun and a little pricey for K-pop.�
�
�
Mazda 3 (2014): Average acceleration, direct-injection engine, very good steering response, very stable ride (heaviest among these grp),�ok size, Kodo design appearance, sunroof, GPS,�fierce LED DRL/stop lamp, very good mileage, very interesting/informative display, and Skyactiv technology (high compression, multi-disc clutch, stable-rigid-light body, etc). Overall a very very fun car to own, a nice car to drive and did I mentioned that the design is really zoom zoom. Good price�for a made in Japan car.... what can I say, that's why I choose a Mazda 3. Ha ha.�
�
Just curious, which car did you end up buying?
Honda Jazz (for my wife); it ticked all the right boxes for us.
Congratulations. Good choice.Honda Jazz (for my wife); it ticked all the right boxes for us.
I am really amazed by the fuel economy of my new ride! Pumped full tank of Ron98 and the fuel indicator on the dashboard meter remained full until i travelled 190km before it dropped by 1 small bar. Furthermore now my ride is still running in since i have only clocked 200+km. Looking forward to see even better fuel economy after run in! The drive has been really smooth, stable and great, never regretted my choice!
After half tank will start dropping very fast.
Mazda 3 technology almost killed an elderly couple who were trapped in their car. Though I wouldn't blame Mazda for this...
http://www.businessi...12/#.VJV48Y3AIE
A couple in New Zealand were stuck inside their car for 13 hours after they left their wireless key fob outside and managed to lock themselves in.
Arstechnica reports the couple, Mollieanna and Brian Smith, 65 and 68, suffered the ordeal in the front seats of their Mazda3 hatchback last month.
The Otago Daily Times explains that a series of unfortunate events and a combination of stress, night-time, and what they called a lack of information from the salesperson conspired against the pair.
The Smiths became trapped at 7 p.m. on Guy Fawkes night, Nov. 5, according to the paper. There were fireworks exploding outside and nobody heard them sound the horn to alert neighbours to their distress.
Mazda3 models sold in New Zealand are equipped with push-button starting and keyless entry via a radio-equipped key fob, writes Arstechnica. Of course, the vehicles are all fitted with manual mechanisms too but the Smiths say they werent told of that and, despite searching for them during the incident, couldnt locate them. Theyre under the armrests and to make matters worse, the car manual was inside the house.
The couple were freed by neighbours the next day at around 7.45 a.m. Mrs Smith was found unconscious and her husband was suffering from breathing difficulties, the Otago Times adds. Apparently they were told by emergency services that another half an hour could have led to death.
Mr and Mrs Smith decided to report the incident to the media as they feared other older people might also be inexperienced with the technology. Mr Smith told the paper: Once I found out how simple it was to unlock it I kicked myself that I did not find the way out. I had this mindset that I did not have the transponder [so I could not get out].
The Otago Times says the countrys general manager for Mazdam, Glenn Harris, said the report was an industry first and added that its not a design fault. However, Mr Smith says other people did get in touch with them following the story who had endured similar experiences.
�
This one is due to�the SE failure to explained to the couple as it was delivered to their place.
�
When I took delivery of my AU hatchback,�they�did�expain in detail.
�
Anyway, if you don't know, you can unlock your boot from inside the car. (Part of the safety feature in the event you get trapped in the boot, cause it is madatory in US)
Anybody knows why Mazda increased the price by $6,000 even though the COE dropped the last round?
And how to do that? By using the remote key?�
This one is due to�the SE failure to explained to the couple as it was delivered to their place.
�
When I took delivery of my AU hatchback,�they�did�expain in detail.
�
Anyway, if you don't know, you can unlock your boot from inside the car. (Part of the safety feature in the event you get trapped in the boot, cause it is madatory in US)
Anybody knows why Mazda increased the price by $6,000 even though the COE dropped the last round?
From my months of observations, it seems that Mazda's price is disproportionate to the COE trends.. it could be due to demand and/or stock availability?
Congratulations. Good choice.
Thank you for your kind words.�
if you ask the SE, they will tell you last time is promotional price.�
![[laugh]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_tfG-S4cOMEeLRvljXAqckwa76gZuxGXSKCk9S7PRhk7-uxolaucsRluWVMTQtdFooVsomXNvrw8Nj5uRUZa8y_hy8SGAHCFYtG20uNfSj8u-vwg0Jc4Y5Y37poBrbhGgzk1667GQ=s0-d)
Anybody knows why Mazda increased the price by $6,000 even though the COE dropped the last round?
�
I am really amazed by the fuel economy of my new ride! Pumped full tank of Ron98 and the fuel indicator on the dashboard meter remained full until i travelled 190km before it dropped by 1 small bar. Furthermore now my ride is still running in since i have only clocked 200+km. Looking forward to see even better fuel economy after run in! The drive has been really smooth, stable and great, never regretted my choice!
�
Manage to clock 645km with approx. (1/4 tank full remaining). Pumped full tank�with (Esso 95)�last Monday. Based on past ride history, I would normally clock between�690km - 745km using one full tank,�with 70-highway / 30-city�usage. Tested - Able to travel another 30km after amber (low fuel) indication lit up. Hopefully can surpass 745km this time round.
�
In short, FC�is approximately 5.5-6.0/100km
Attached Thumbnails
�
Manage to clock 645km with approx. (1/4 tank full remaining). Pumped full tank�with (Esso 95)�last Monday. Based on past ride history, I would normally clock between�690km - 745km using one full tank,�with 70-highway / 30-city�usage. Tested - Able to travel another 30km after amber (low fuel) indication lit up. Hopefully can surpass 745km this time round.
�
In short, FC�is approximately 5.5-6.0/100km
�
My previous ride consistently have better mileage when I pump Esso 95. The mileage actually reduces a little when I use Esso 98, which is strange. As for M3, not sure if RON 95 will be better then RON 98 fuel....�
![[confused]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_v3nwmEbhwfnyw8EgE0jF0KuAjF5jSC1xOKZFEYCAZE_XzTfkgHEqzyr0QaywJCJqVsDr4qDKh4sgnwret74Ek7M4Hcetp4Q_VjyYfdcS7Idcyngs4g1FKsZWhbwfCnrARJwztDathI=s0-d)
Edited by Brainstorm, 22 December 2014 - 10:36 PM.
just pump the lowest grade possible.
�
The higher the grade, the less real fuel you get. Those high octane fuel contains less fuel, but more additives and combustion-retardent chemicals.
�
�
My previous ride consistently have better mileage when I pump Esso 95. The mileage actually reduces a little when I use Esso 98, which is strange. As for M3, not sure if RON 95 will be better then RON 98 fuel....�
�
�
My previous ride consistently have better mileage when I pump Esso 95. The mileage actually reduces a little when I use Esso 98, which is strange. As for M3, not sure if RON 95 will be better then RON 98 fuel....�
I had encountered the same case too. Pumped (Esso 98) full tank twice and the total mileage clocked is 585km and 608km.
And how to do that? By using the remote key?
From my months of observations, it seems that Mazda's price is disproportionate to the COE trends.. it could be due to demand and/or stock availability?
Nope, there is a latch that is similar to your door latch.
�
Manage to clock 645km with approx. (1/4 tank full remaining). Pumped full tank�with (Esso 95)�last Monday. Based on past ride history, I would normally clock between�690km - 745km using one full tank,�with 70-highway / 30-city�usage. Tested - Able to travel another 30km after amber (low fuel) indication lit up. Hopefully can surpass 745km this time round.
�
In short, FC�is approximately 5.5-6.0/100km
�
Looks good bro! :)
�
My previous ride consistently have better mileage when I pump Esso 95. The mileage actually reduces a little when I use Esso 98, which is strange. As for M3, not sure if RON 95 will be better then RON 98 fuel....�
�
Haha i heard from SE that when the car was delivered to us new, they pumped 1/4 tank of Shell98 for us. As this is my first time pumping after taking delivery of the car, I pumped SPC98.. haven't tried 95 yet.. Still thinking if i should "downgrade" and pump 95 since i have been pumping 95 all along for my previous car..
Nope, there is a latch that is similar to your door latch.
�
Hmm the Singapore units don't come with the boot release at the driver's seat..
�
Manage to clock 645km with approx. (1/4 tank full remaining). Pumped full tank�with (Esso 95)�last Monday. Based on past ride history, I would normally clock between�690km - 745km using one full tank,�with 70-highway / 30-city�usage. Tested - Able to travel another 30km after amber (low fuel) indication lit up. Hopefully can surpass 745km this time round.
�
In short, FC�is approximately 5.5-6.0/100km
How you all drive one? Max I can get is 610 with 34km range to go. I'm using shell 98. I do admit I sometimes heavy right foot. Changing gear at 4k.
Anybody knows why Mazda increased the price by $6,000 even though the COE dropped the last round?
SE told me the sale is good.�
How you all drive one? Max I can get is 610 with 34km range to go. I'm using shell 98. I do admit I sometimes heavy right foot. Changing gear at 4k.
Haha so far i never rev more than 2.5k..
SE told me the sale is good.�
I remembered last month SE told me Japan cannot cope with the demand.. duno how true man.. but seems like the demand in Singapore has indeed increased since the launch..
�
Looks good bro! :)
�
Haha i heard from SE that when the car was delivered to us new, they pumped 1/4 tank of Shell98 for us. As this is my first time pumping after taking delivery of the car, I pumped SPC98.. haven't tried 95 yet.. Still thinking if i should "downgrade" and pump 95 since i have been pumping 95 all along for my previous car..
�
Hmm the Singapore units don't come with the boot release at the driver's seat..
�
The latch is in the boot.�
Haha so far i never rev more than 2.5k..
I remembered last month SE told me Japan cannot cope with the demand.. duno how true man.. but seems like the demand in Singapore has indeed increased since the launch..
It is not just �SG market, as SG market is consider small as compare to other parts of the world demand. Which car beside european luxury mache offers the same level of equipment , that also includes blind spot monitoring, sensors that prime your brakes in an emergency situation and that is below $25k (US)/(UK); $36k(AUS).
How you all drive one? Max I can get is 610 with 34km range to go. I'm using shell 98. I do admit I sometimes heavy right foot. Changing gear at 4k.
I used to experience very good fc, when I dont rev pass 2.2k rpm. Now, I rev btw 3k to 3.5k rpm, feel shiok, but fc has come down to abt 7.6L/100km. Still good for me as considering 90% city driving.
Merry X'mas & Happy New Year 2015.
is pumping 95 petrol not that good for the engine as compared to 98. i am collecting my car this saturday and donno what grade of petrol i should pump.
is pumping 95 petrol not that good for the engine as compared to 98. i am collecting my car this saturday and donno what grade of petrol i should pump.
Congrats on your new ride! SE told me 95 is fine but don't go below that. Some bros here pump 95 didn't seem to read any negative feedback from those who pumped 95 though..
Congrats on your new ride! SE told me 95 is fine but don't go below that. Some bros here pump 95 didn't seem to read any negative feedback from those who pumped 95 though..
Agree my SE told me the same thing. I been pumping 95 and it working fine although 98 do give that little extra kick of power.
Agree my SE told me the same thing. I been pumping 95 and it working fine although 98 do give that little extra kick of power.
Any difference in mileage covered bro?
Any difference in mileage covered bro?
Somehow 98 give slightly better mileage. I m using Spc fyi.
Somehow 98 give slightly better mileage. I m using Spc fyi.
Great! I'll probably test it out too..
I used to experience very good fc, when I dont rev pass 2.2k rpm. Now, I rev btw 3k to 3.5k rpm, feel shiok, but fc has come down to abt 7.6L/100km. Still good for me as considering 90% city driving.
Thats still >12km/L, at 90% city, thats good imo. esp in city, 3-3.5 = rev it up, stop. rev it up, stop.
Somehow 98 give slightly better mileage. I m using Spc fyi.
Due to my change of route, and for better discount, I also changine to SPC from my next tank of fuel. POSB Mastercard is best right?
�
Due to my change of route, and for better discount, I also changine to SPC from my next tank of fuel. POSB Mastercard is best right?
�
Yup, posb Everyday card the best for spc...
Yup, posb Everyday card the best for spc...
I think so, UOB also offer some great discount too.
Have collected my M3 hatchback for about a week, clocked 400+km. So far so good. There is no clicking/nocking sound, so likely for hatchback with serial number near & after F0139XXX has been fixed (not sure about sedan's serial number, could be about/after F0160XXX).
�
My mileage increased from 5.8L/100km to 6.5L/100km as I need to do some city shopping for the festive and less highway travel. Guess it will improve back when the festive seasons are over.
�
:-)
Edited by Brainstorm, 27 December 2014 - 10:24 AM.
Have collected my M3 hatchback for about a week, clocked 400+km. So far so good. There is no clicking/nocking sound, so likely for hatchback with serial number near & after F0139XXX has been fixed (not sure about sedan's serial number, could be about/after F0160XXX).
�
My mileage increased from 5.8L/100km to 6.5L/100km as I need to do some city shopping for the festive and less highway travel. Guess it will improve back when the festive seasons are over.
�
:-)
I juz collect my mazda 3 sedan and no issue as well... no loud sound when going over hump etc..
Wan to check how u see the l/100km ? The average as shown in the meter or ownself calculated ? Mine shown on meter as 9.2l/100km after driving 80km...
I juz collect my mazda 3 sedan and no issue as well... no loud sound when going over hump etc..
Wan to check how u see the l/100km ? The average as shown in the meter or ownself calculated ? Mine shown on meter as 9.2l/100km after driving 80km...
If u want to do the normal calculation just take 100 divide by 9.2 u will get km/l.
Does anyone here know how to make the car lock after driving for awhile. Mine does not lock. It just remains unlock all the while. I read from the menu that the settings could be changed.
I juz collect my mazda 3 sedan and no issue as well... no loud sound when going over hump etc..
Wan to check how u see the l/100km ? The average as shown in the meter or ownself calculated ? Mine shown on meter as 9.2l/100km after driving 80km...
�
�
I used the meter and I must say that I'm light footed. When I collected my car, I did a reset for the mileage calculator as it was rather high due to the long idling at the Mazda workshop.�
�
Also correction to my previous comment on waxing. After reading some websites, it is recommended to wax your car every few months to protect the clear coat. New cars should not polish, just wax it. Do note that most off-the-shelf products are cleaner wax (containing polish to sand down clear coat), need to look for wax. I bought Sonax XTREME Brilliant Wax 1 from Giant at $18, don't buy the Brilliant Wax 2 or Wax 3 as they contains polish for old and older cars. As for paint protection system, it may not be necessary as its just an expensive coat of paint sealant (ie. artificial wax made of polymer/silicone), unless you want let others do waxing for you.
�
http://autoexpert.co...-for-my-new-car
�
![[:)]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_sV3nNKazaev9FUzQa94n3LQDvsUWb-o6bRPckfc6349E7aDJJrVpu840s-6xnGwswsZILhlFoEr6f6gJaL5hso7_iACzWsBwYWUbBD09Gbj8lh-U1g67dyCdOv8NWBi6mePN68RA=s0-d)
If u want to do the normal calculation just take 100 divide by 9.2 u will get km/l.
Does anyone here know how to make the car lock after driving for awhile. Mine does not lock. It just remains unlock all the while. I read from the menu that the settings could be changed.
�
Mine also remains unlock all the while. We dont have the driver-side door lock/unlock switch (beside the all windows lock button), so we can't program the options. But the manual stated that the authorised workshop are able to program the various options, not sure if Mazda knows how to do it or they will just push aside and say don't have one.... �Will try asking Mazda to do it during my 1000km servicing.�
�
�
I used the meter and I must say that I'm light footed. When I collected my car, I did a reset for the mileage calculator as it was rather high due to the long idling at the Mazda workshop.�
�
Also correction to my previous comment on waxing. After reading some websites, it is recommended to wax your car every few months to protect the clear coat. New cars should not polish, just wax it. Do note that most off-the-shelf products are cleaner wax (containing polish to sand down clear coat), need to look for wax. I bought Sonax XTREME Brilliant Wax 1 from Giant at $18, don't buy the Brilliant Wax 2 or Wax 3 as they contains polish for old and older cars. As for paint protection system, it may not be necessary as its just an expensive coat of paint sealant (ie. artificial wax made of polymer/silicone), unless you want let others do waxing for you.
�
http://autoexpert.co...-for-my-new-car
�
How do u reset the mileage calculator?
�
�
There are two ways, 1) use the INFO button on the steering wheel - go to the Avg mileage then press and hold the INFO button for 1.5sec, 2) use the 7" touch screen - go to Applications> Fuel Economy Monitor page and click the reset. ��
yesterday was at bukit batok for lunch.
saw this swee swee �white M3 HB in car audio shop for sound treatment and upgrades, quickly take a look see.
The front and back speakers are 5". Front are components.
Can upsize to 6.5" .
�
I just changed my stock speakers to FOCAL PS130 front and PC130 back.
The stock speakers are 6", not 5" as informed by me.
I apologise for the misinformation.
�
front are components.
�
Now I am tempted to mount an active sub ... but the PS130 is very very good, a huge improvement over stock except the low extension which is missing.
�
Frankly, no need to change the rear or just a normal coaxial will suffice.�
Back door panel cannot support mid/low bass.
I juz collect my mazda 3 sedan and no issue as well... no loud sound when going over hump etc..
Wan to check how u see the l/100km ? The average as shown in the meter or ownself calculated ? Mine shown on meter as 9.2l/100km after driving 80km...
Select applications from the screen, go into fuel economy monitor. u will then see ur avg fuel history, fuel economy (this drive). U can also toggle "info" switch on the left side of the steering wheel and it will show u FC info also.. enjoy ur Mz 3.. Zoom Zoom
�
I just changed my stock speakers to FOCAL PS130 front and PC130 back.
The stock speakers are 6", not 5" as informed by me.
I apologise for the misinformation.
�
front are components.
�
Now I am tempted to mount an active sub ... but the PS130 is very very good, a huge improvement over stock except the low extension which is missing.
�
Frankly, no need to change the rear or just a normal coaxial will suffice.�
Back door panel cannot support mid/low bass.
Is the stock speaker those made of paper type or is also quality speakers?
Just to check with those who have used the Mazda toolbox to update the Navigation map. The�MapCare subscription is 3 yrs by Eurokars, but the online Connected Services Subscription is only 60 days. Is that correct? Does it mean that after 60 days we can only update through Eurokars?�
Edited by Brainstorm, 28 December 2014 - 09:47 PM.
Hi guys, I dont recall seeing any 12v socket around the dashboard. There is only one socket under the armrest. Is that correct? How do you guys connect your DVR camera? (I don't plan to connect it directly to the battery) From the US user manual, both the USB and 12v socket under the armrest won't turn off after you off the ignition... Is that true? Thanks.�
�
Hihi, how do you solve this? intend to install a car camera as well..
�
Hihi, how do you solve this? intend to install a car camera as well..
�
Like what�Variablefeedback�has commented, the 12V socket power will turn off after you off the engine. So it can be used for DVR.�
�
I also found out that the USB ports will also turn off after engine off. But the DVR may think that the USB port is from a computer and try to link up with it instead of recording. If you want to use the USB port, need to find a USB power only cable (without data wires).�
�
Like what�Variablefeedback�has commented, the 12V socket power will turn off after you off the engine. So it can be used for DVR.�
�
I also found out that the USB ports will also turn off after engine off. But the DVR may think that the USB port is from a computer and try to link up with it instead of recording. If you want to use the USB port, need to find a USB power only cable (without data wires).�
�
hihi. thanks for the feedback.. so if I off the engine, then the recording will stop? if I wan those motion sensor camera also cannot use ?
�
1 more thing, so confirm the power socket is at the arm-rest ? have to use extension to wire it to the car font ?
�
hihi. thanks for the feedback.. so if I off the engine, then the recording will stop? if I wan those motion sensor camera also cannot use ?
�
1 more thing, so confirm the power socket is at the arm-rest ? have to use extension to wire it to the car font ?
�
If want to have Motion sensor after engine off, need to install to car battery with power magic ($50?).�
�
The 12V socket is at the armrest, and the DVR cable is long enough to reach there.�
Attached Thumbnails
Damn sian, got a cigarette burns on my car roof. Any idea how to remove it.
�
Try some polish with abrasive. Hope it works.
1) When you start the engine in the morning. Is the engine rather noisy for the first few 5-10s? Mine is rather noisy. RPM will hit about 1.7.
2) During the I-stop. When u release the brakes to move off. Does the car have the ignition starting sound when the car comes back alive? Cos I rmb during the test drive unit. The car just jerks abit when the car starts when I release the brakes.
3) On the information cluster where there is a small slim knob where u can adjust the brightness of the cluster and also changing the odometer. Mine is a litte loose. As in I can sort of pull out and pull in slightly. Is yours like that too?
Thanks a lot Mazda3 owners!
Bro, for item 1&2 it's normal. The engine does fire up at high rpm to warm the engine quickly. After couple of seconds, the rpm will go down to 1000rpm. As for istop, yes there would be the sound of the engine restarting.. Like a sneeze.It's my 3rd day for my ride. As of now got a few questions if fellow mazda3 owners could share.
1) When you start the engine in the morning. Is the engine rather noisy for the first few 5-10s? Mine is rather noisy. RPM will hit about 1.7.
2) During the I-stop. When u release the brakes to move off. Does the car have the ignition starting sound when the car comes back alive? Cos I rmb during the test drive unit. The car just jerks abit when the car starts when I release the brakes.
3) On the information cluster where there is a small slim knob where u can adjust the brightness of the cluster and also changing the odometer. Mine is a litte loose. As in I can sort of pull out and pull in slightly. Is yours like that too?
Thanks a lot Mazda3 owners!
For item 3, I don't thk mine is loose, or rather nvr tried pulling out before.
Is the stock speaker those made of paper type or is also quality speakers?
I try to post pic when i am free.
Paper whizzer cone, small magnet and plastic tweeter.
�
But let me tell you that the stock speakers SQ is really very good.
The 2nd hand used FOCAL I bought are way better in the highs and mid ... but no match for the bass extension of the stock.
And dont change the rear speakers, the returns is minimal.
Dont add sub too if you planning to use HIGH-LEVEL.
3) On the information cluster where there is a small slim knob where u can adjust the brightness of the cluster and also changing the odometer. Mine is a litte loose. As in I can sort of pull out and pull in slightly. Is yours like that too?
�
Yes, thats the reset button, it is "loose" ... and it is normal.
�
1 more thing, so confirm the power socket is at the arm-rest ? have to use extension to wire it to the car font ?
�
Workshop will use a 12V female adaptor for your existing 12V male and hide it in the panel.
I went to Auto Acoustics to fix mine.
They use Made in Korea adaptors.
Just to check with those who have used the Mazda toolbox to update the Navigation map. The�MapCare subscription is 3 yrs by Eurokars, but the online Connected Services Subscription is only 60 days. Is that correct? Does it mean that after 60 days we can only update through Eurokars?�
Once you register and �activate the SD card, it will show 3 years.
Edited by Variablefeedback, 30 December 2014 - 05:13 AM.
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét